Tempratures

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Captain Greg

Captain Greg

Joined
Jan 16, 2016
Messages
491
Location
Cape town
It was a reasonable autum day in Cape Town some 30 degrees C, decided I will run the 1299 before our rather harsh and miserable winter sets in and we start seeing 6- 9 C.
Got hammered in stop start traffic with three tadgers who decided to overturn there cars on the highway.
In the hot sun and at less than walking pace I was reading around 106C that then dropped quickly when I got on the move, back to high 80's and mid 90's
Was wondering what temps you guys in sunny climates get?
Also at whet temp will it auto cut out? The bike on fire thread came to mind as I watched the Temprature gauge going high, in most of my cars In similar traffic I don't het as hot as 106, I can confirm the electric fan was running
 
Highest I've seen was 107C on mine in 28C temp stop and go. It would stay for a while at the 105-06 if I was crawling. Didn't like that as my 1199s before used to do a better job of cooling off down to 99-100. The 1299 doesn't until I actually get moving. My fan was working because I checked.
 
mine sits at say 104 to 106 in hot Brisbane weather when stuck in traffic. cools off quick once get going. I stop the engine if stuck for a while. I think i read they shut off at 120.
 
I read that u should pull.over and switch it off at 120 but 106 is quite fine on the pani in start stop traffic. Ive reached 104 and my fan goes off and vrings me back to a stable 100
 
A few weeks ago I saw 112c on a mid 30's day in Sydney traffic. Normally it goes to 106c in regular traffic. When moving the bike cools down quickly.

1299S.
 
wilkson said:
120 and you will start blowing a head gasket
Click to expand...

Is it not a radiator cap pressure ratining like we had in the older cars?
It's scary to think that the motor cannot cool sufficiently, in mid summer we have seem ambient sounds of over 40C and I would be right uncomfofortsble if I was cought in traffic with temps going high, and a possible fire or discoloration of the body work near the pipes.
 
Dan said:
mine sits at say 104 to 106 in hot Brisbane weather when stuck in traffic. cools off quick once get going. I stop the engine if stuck for a while. I think i read they shut off at 120.
Click to expand...

I got caught going through the Burnley tunnel in Melbourne on the way to the wsbk this year and I was ....... shitting myself as it got up to 118. All I was thing was 120...game over...in a bloody tunnel at peak hour.
 
jock39racer said:
I got caught going through the Burnley tunnel in Melbourne on the way to the wsbk this year and I was ....... shitting myself as it got up to 118. All I was thing was 120...game over...in a bloody tunnel at peak hour.
Click to expand...

with the motocorse pipes? and without heat shield? jeezzzez...
 
On a 106 degree day, in stop and go commute traffic, I hit 218 Fahrenheit which is around 103-104 C and a lot of that was just sitting in traffic at a complete standstill.

That's about as high as I have ever seen it.
 
100+

Cause our climate is never under 26C (normally 32-35C at day) my 1299 is doing always around 100-106C. While riding it cools down to 85-95C

No problems until now.. Fingers crossed.
 
Not the least expensive route but this will fix everything. I replaced the stock radiator with a MAC unit "water only" These are 35mm cores. I run water wetter. I control the fan with a toggle switch. At a lengthly stop i turn the fan on if the bike hits 83. I have not had a temp over 88.3 with this setup no matter how much traffic I sit in. I live in southern California. This bike cooling system is not correctly designed to do what it is supposed to do. This motor makes a lot of power and the cooling system is minimal. Add to that the location of the front header pipe in relations to the oil sump and the fact that some rocket scientist thought it was a good idea to mount the oil heat exchanger on top of an exhaust manifold does not help anything. Like i said, its not cheap but this is the radiator set up that the bike should have shipped with.
 
It hit 245F yellow flashing(118.33C) on one of my ride in Hot Texas heat. the fan was working and blowing out hot air. it dropped down around 225ish after I got moving
 
So at 245F, what do you think the oil temp at the bearing is? Not good. These things deserve a real radiator.
 
I'm hoping that the engineers thought this thing through?
In contrast I'm testing a rotor wing aircraft from Poland and despite its impressive attributes we have had to give some interesting feedback to the factory, my 1299 is my first Ducati and it will be disappointing to find that if just after warranty it's proved to be a crock of .....

Sitting at breakfast yesterday with a highly qualified engineer (in his field) it was clear to me that men who understand materials and the correct application are very smart, mentioned my concerns with the 1299 and he assured me the line between design and function are not always blurred, and that I should simply enjoy it :)
 
Well I guess that is one way of looking at it. My background is aerospace and materials as well. Additionally I have worked a bit in CART racing and on some HRC projects. If ducati built in a temp warning notification and guys are seeing it under normal riding conditions, then I may suggest that this bike has a less than optimal cooling system. I have owned a few 1000rr with HRC kitted motors and these things were always cool with the stock cooling system at 205 hp. Yamaha is the same. The Panigale pushes the edge of the temp envelope for everyone who rides in warm climate and in many cases, surpasses its posted capabilities in a stop and go environment. You have a bunch of radiator companies making replacement radiators for the Panigale. There is a reason for that. For the simple fact that a radiator swap that incorporates a 35mm core instead of a 22mm core and the ability to turn the fan on when it needs to come on solved all the issues no matter what the environment and fit without any modifications to the bike tells me that Ducati could have easily incorporated this into the bike with no additional cost and this topic would never have come up. Its a poor engineering decision primarily due to the fact that it was easily rectifiable at the design phase without changing anything else. There isnt a competent mechanic or builder that will not tell you that compared to other bikes in this class that the Panigale radiator is not robust enough to cool the bike correctly. It just isnt.
 
Strangely enough, my BMW S1000RR ran hotter than my 1299 does. The 1299 runs cooler on the track, cooler on the Freeway, cooler in traffic... I saw 220+ on a regular basis on my S1000RR and that was with a full race exhaust (no cat) and an aftermarket tune which brought the temps down a smidge from stock..

Modern day Cars and Motorcycles are designed specifically to run hot for various reasons, including emissions, power etc.

That's not to say Ducati shouldn't have given us a better radiator, because they absolutely should have.
 
endodoc said:
Well I guess that is one way of looking at it. My background is aerospace and materials as well. Additionally I have worked a bit in CART racing and on some HRC projects. If ducati built in a temp warning notification and guys are seeing it under normal riding conditions, then I may suggest that this bike has a less than optimal cooling system. I have owned a few 1000rr with HRC kitted motors and these things were always cool with the stock cooling system at 205 hp. Yamaha is the same. The Panigale pushes the edge of the temp envelope for everyone who rides in warm climate and in many cases, surpasses its posted capabilities in a stop and go environment. You have a bunch of radiator companies making replacement radiators for the Panigale. There is a reason for that. For the simple fact that a radiator swap that incorporates a 35mm core instead of a 22mm core and the ability to turn the fan on when it needs to come on solved all the issues no matter what the environment and fit without any modifications to the bike tells me that Ducati could have easily incorporated this into the bike with no additional cost and this topic would never have come up. Its a poor engineering decision primarily due to the fact that it was easily rectifiable at the design phase without changing anything else. There isnt a competent mechanic or builder that will not tell you that compared to other bikes in this class that the Panigale radiator is not robust enough to cool the bike correctly. It just isnt.
Click to expand...

I recently bought a big upper radiator from Mac Radiator, it took some 5 to 10 minutes more to generate heat again.

Unfortunately this big upper radiator has some design flaws; the left lower part of the radiator makes contact with the fairing, the cooling hose on the left upper side comes in contact with the frame (will creates wear spots after a year for sure)
One of the lower mounting holes on the OEM radiator has some kind of an oval hole to compensate the change in dimensions when the radiator reaches his operating temperature. On the Mac Radiator this oval hole is just a round hole, so no room for expansion.
When I informed Mac Radiator in a kind constructive way about these design flaws, they responded with: never heard of these kind of issues.
So do not purchase Mac radiator's "big upper radiator"
Also on their website you can see a some kind of mesh structure in front of the radiator (protection against small stones or debris). This mesh structure was not present on mine:(. I now installed the OEM radiator again and if I am in traffic now I switch to wet mode, it generates substantially less heat.
 

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