Interesting. I did not have any of those issues but I may have cheated on the upper hose as I made all my plumbing and did not use what came with the kit. Other than that it's a bolt in with zero fit issues. The standard kit comes with a warer/oil lower. I don't recommend this outside the track. If you get MAC to do the lower in a water only then your in business. The new kits all ship with the rock guard. The lower mount holes on the upper use rubber grommets. Not sure if your setup is different.
Tempratures
- Thread starter Captain Greg
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I'm very curious how does wet mode contribute to a lower heat, I would happily go to wet in traffic if this is fact......in fact wet is more in my riding attributesI recently bought a big upper radiator from Mac Radiator, it took some 5 to 10 minutes more to generate heat again.
Unfortunately this big upper radiator has some design flaws; the left lower part of the radiator makes contact with the fairing, the cooling hose on the left upper side comes in contact with the frame (will creates wear spots after a year for sure)
One of the lower mounting holes on the OEM radiator has some kind of an oval hole to compensate the change in dimensions when the radiator reaches his operating temperature. On the Mac Radiator this oval hole is just a round hole, so no room for expansion.
When I informed Mac Radiator in a kind constructive way about these design flaws, they responded with: never heard of these kind of issues.
So do not purchase Mac radiator's "big upper radiator"
Also on their website you can see a some kind of mesh structure in front of the radiator (protection against small stones or debris). This mesh structure was not present on mine. I now installed the OEM radiator again and if I am in traffic now I switch to wet mode, it generates substantially less heat.
Ive only had 1 day in 3 years where heat was an issue in northern Ca.
Going around clear lake 35mph for an hour on a 100+f day. Could not keep the motor below 210f and 225f was typical. After an hour I was literally cooking.
YES they need a bigger rad to keep temps at or under 200f.
I don't mind 220f for a few minutes, but an hour is BS
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In wet mode the bike has only 120 HP so less fuel is injected, it helps a bit against the heat. In the end the fan has to do its job, sorry. But for short traffic jam it takes longer to reach 103 C. I try to avoid small busy town roads while "commuting" to the Nordschleife.
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I understand that it reduces the Hp in wet mode, but surely 5000rpm is 5000 rpm no matter what mode your in?
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I recently bought a big upper radiator from Mac Radiator, it took some 5 to 10 minutes more to generate heat again.
Unfortunately this big upper radiator has some design flaws; the left lower part of the radiator makes contact with the fairing, the cooling hose on the left upper side comes in contact with the frame (will creates wear spots after a year for sure)
One of the lower mounting holes on the OEM radiator has some kind of an oval hole to compensate the change in dimensions when the radiator reaches his operating temperature. On the Mac Radiator this oval hole is just a round hole, so no room for expansion.
When I informed Mac Radiator in a kind constructive way about these design flaws, they responded with: never heard of these kind of issues.
So do not purchase Mac radiator's "big upper radiator"
Also on their website you can see a some kind of mesh structure in front of the radiator (protection against small stones or debris). This mesh structure was not present on mine
That's a shame . I have used MAC radiators on both my bikes but never had any issues .
Yes that sounds unfortunate. I agree MAC has been great. I tried the 2 piece kit on a street bike project using the stock fan. I had MAC weld an AN fitting on both sides instead of the crossover pipe so the fan fit and used -8 AN lines routed over the top of the fan box. Thing ran great on the highway but pulling air over the oil cooler with the fan did nothing to cool engine temp through overall temp reduction. So I ordered the exact dimension 35 mm lower from MAC in "water only" using again the stock fan configuration. That's what the panigale needed. MAC is great to deal with and has made custom mods for me on the fly. That being said if you just get the MAC upper and mod the fan to work "on demand" you will fix your heat issues. I will have to try the "wet" setting idea just to take some data. I don't know how the fuel metering and ECU modulation would account for any significant temp deviation but what the heck. I'm not knocking it until I see if it is statistically relevant or not.
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Would be interesting to see those results.
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Hi guys.
Upper radiator has been modified in the lower parts. I only had issues on 2-3 bikes, maybe depends on fairings , i dont know.
Now it's tapered in the lower part so it doesnt touch the fairings.
The water only setup is made of 35mm upper radiator + 30mm lower one so you can mount the fan.
Replaces the oem without issues.
Thermostat removal kit and all pipes and hoses are included in the kit, 2.0 bar cap.
As for the price, much cheaper than H20 or Febur.
Upper radiator has been modified in the lower parts. I only had issues on 2-3 bikes, maybe depends on fairings , i dont know.
Now it's tapered in the lower part so it doesnt touch the fairings.
The water only setup is made of 35mm upper radiator + 30mm lower one so you can mount the fan.
Replaces the oem without issues.
Thermostat removal kit and all pipes and hoses are included in the kit, 2.0 bar cap.
As for the price, much cheaper than H20 or Febur.
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