Thoughts on a slightly higher handlebar position

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Had a thought while straddling an "S" today at dealer,What do you guys think about a higher handlebar for us unfortunate souls that do not have twisties and need more comfort for straighter road riding.
I'm thinking One inch riser for that Ultimate riding position.(In my case anyway where the factory position is down right uncomfortable.
 
Had a thought while straddling an "S" today at dealer,What do you guys think about a higher handlebar for us unfortunate souls that do not have twisties and need more comfort for straighter road riding.
I'm thinking One inch riser for that Ultimate riding position.(In my case anyway where the factory position is down right uncomfortable.

I was thinking I wouldn't like it before I got mine but I love it, so much more comfortable than my 749 and just as racy feeling. Also on my 749 my boots felt a bit uncomfortable but now I use them all the time.
 
I was thinking I wouldn't like it before I got mine but I love it, so much more comfortable than my 749 and just as racy feeling. Also on my 749 my boots felt a bit uncomfortable but now I use them all the time.
What did you get? What Brand?
 
I'd expect the best way to get some bar relief would be to get a set of bars which are closer to the rider as well as a little bit higher. Closer reduces the reach and higher helps get a rider more upright. Closer bars, also help make it possible to design a bar that does not foul the fairing at full lock.

The only maker which consistently makes bars that are higher and closer that I know of is Heli. They don't make bars for the 1199 at this time, but you can submit your interest in having them make bars for the bike here: Contact Heli Modified: Makers of HeliBars | HeliBars
 
Take a look at Speedymotos. They have about 2cm rise at the clamp (3/4in.), and you can set them up with variable reaches for a given drop, plus you can run them from a full 10 degree drop angle to a slight rise. Very nice product, and not as clunky as something like say, Apex multi-adjustable bars. You can get anything from a racier than stock position to a considerably more relaxed one with 'em by playing with the drop, sweep, and clamp height.

Note that with any current aftermarket clipons, you'll also have to buy a separate mount for the steering damper since it mounts to the right factory clipon. Ducabike have one out already. Also note that you'll have plenty of clipon options if you go with an S, but the base model requires clipons with a 58mm clamp size - same as the MV F4 which also uses RAC50 forks. Very little product out for 58mm forks at this point, but there is some in the pipeline.
 
You'll have to relocate reservoirs, and also clearance will be an issue, I put a set of factory bar risers on my rsv4 and took em back off because I didn't like the marginal clearance. This is always tough on any sport bike.
 
I submitted a request to Heli a month ago. They said if they get enough requests they will consider. I am sure they will they made nice clip ons for my 1098 and it made a big difference.
 
I have some advice if you are dead set on buying a super sport bike like this.

1). Before you try different bars, ride the bike for a couple of months. You might be surprised what you will adapt to.

2.0). Wind in your chest is your friend. At 70-80 mph you start to get enough air pressure to take the weight off your hands.

2.1). Do not put a taller windshield to block the air. That is the last thing you want to do for reasons stated in 2.0.

But before all that, be realistic about the right tool for the job. Why do you want a Panigale, or any super sport? Is it for image or are you really into the performance and have a place to use it? I don't mean to diminish why you want the bike. Your reasons are your reasons. But buying the wrong bike will result in a bike you hate riding and will turn around and sell and lose money on. A ZX14r is just as fast and more comfortable right out of the crate, and adding risers to it is a piece of cake.

I'm 62 years old and can fairly easily do 350 mile days on mine. But the first time I rode one I almost turned around and took it back to the dealer after five miles (it was the owners personal bike, who I am friends with). But I persisted and once I hit the back roads and kept my speed up it was pure joy. I have two other bikes that are much more comfortable and still plenty fast and fun. Some days I wonder if I should really be riding the bike on longer days. Yesterday I felt that way but I had not ridden it in a few weeks. 210 miles later and I was glad I did .
 
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My personal experience: Don't change the handlebar's setup. I tried Gilles Tooling, Woodcraft and ended with Ducabike. You don't have to change the brake lines, but (as already stated in this thread) the clearance to tank and fairings is the main problem. All aftermarket handlebar sets I tried where not pre-drilled. It really takes time to fit them, and this job is super-annoying!

Main reason for me to change the handlebars was weight and to possibility to install Stahlbus bleeder valves and the Dion Device. Jeeezes, I wouldn't do it again!

BTW: Weight of the OEM parts is very low compared to aftermaket stuff!
 
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