V4 and V4R motor

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Hatchet

Hatchet

Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
154
Location
Foxboro,MA
Hey guys
Does anyone know if you can put a V4R engine into a V4 using the V4 electronic’s
I mean just take the V4 1100 cc motor out and replace it with the V4R motor , using all the ecu and electronics from the V4
 
Mechanically (components) they should be interchangeable however the ECUs are different with respect to software. Engine management will obviously be different and there are probably differences in the software for ride dynamics (tc,wc,eb etc)
 
You would need new ecu and dash. Potentially new swingarm too, although not 100% sure. The R swingarm has a different part no, and it mounts slightly differently to the engine case. I'm not sure if the back of the engine case is different. I'd try and check the engine case part numbers. I did look into it, and the numbers were different, but I'm not entirely convinced I was looking at the right thing.
 
I just did this. You will need the ecu and bbs. Everything is plug and play except for the gear range indicator sensor, the plugs are different and you cannot use the V4 sensor as it doesn't recognize it. The gear indicator sensor has to be from the V4R, so you will have to get a plug or hardwire it. You will need the footrest holders and hardware/pivot to bolt the holder to the engine for the V4R as the swingarm pivot on the V4R is higher and different then the V4 and they will not line up. HSBK had what I needed in stock, I just ran oem holders. You do not need to change swingarm.

Be super careful when removing the torx screws for the throttle bodies, they are super easy to strip and caused me some grief. I replaced them with regular bolts afterwards.

Question though, did your 1103 expire or are you just looking at installing the R engine?
 
RacerDan said:
I just did this. You will need the ecu and bbs. Everything is plug and play except for the gear range indicator sensor, the plugs are different and you cannot use the V4 sensor as it doesn't recognize it. The gear indicator sensor has to be from the V4R, so you will have to get a plug or hardwire it. You will need the footrest holders and hardware/pivot to bolt the holder to the engine for the V4R as the swingarm pivot on the V4R is higher and different then the V4 and they will not line up. HSBK had what I needed in stock, I just ran oem holders. You do not need to change swingarm.

Be super careful when removing the torx screws for the throttle bodies, they are super easy to strip and caused me some grief. I replaced them with regular bolts afterwards.

Question though, did your 1103 expire or are you just looking at installing the R engine?
Click to expand...


Nice one. So the engine case is different, and requires the plates. I wonder what is different about the swingarm...
 
It has to do with the collars in the crankcase. I used the standard V4 non adjustable pivots, but the collars that thread into the crankcase are a different size thread and had to change them.

The physical swingarm itself does not need to be changed. I have the oem V4 swingarm and a longer oem swingarm and they fit both engines with no issues, its just the mounting that is a little different between the V4 and R engines.

I almost forgot, the R engine I got was a dry clutch with no clutch, so I had to change to standard V4 wet clutch. The oil pump drive gear on the back of the clutch is different and had to disassemble that side of the engine to swap the gear. Not a big deal, but something to watch out for.
 
RacerDan said:
I just did this. You will need the ecu and bbs. Everything is plug and play except for the gear range indicator sensor, the plugs are different and you cannot use the V4 sensor as it doesn't recognize it. The gear indicator sensor has to be from the V4R, so you will have to get a plug or hardwire it. You will need the footrest holders and hardware/pivot to bolt the holder to the engine for the V4R as the swingarm pivot on the V4R is higher and different then the V4 and they will not line up. HSBK had what I needed in stock, I just ran oem holders. You do not need to change swingarm.

Be super careful when removing the torx screws for the throttle bodies, they are super easy to strip and caused me some grief. I replaced them with regular bolts afterwards.

Question though, did your 1103 expire or are you just looking at installing the R engine?
Click to expand...
I’m racing over in Europe in 2022 and it’s a 1000cc limit on the series I’ll be racing, I was racing CCS with my 1100 and it’s still prefect condition, and finding a R bike is hard , so I was thinking of doing to R motor instead , thank you for all the info
 
Hey Guys
Thank you all so much for all of this
I’ve bought a R frame and just got the swingarm from pierobon with the 35mm done , so figured a R motor would be better , I talked to Tamburini and the said the run the R motor with the 1100 electronics
 
Hatchet said:
Hey Guys
Thank you all so much for all of this
I’ve bought a R frame and just got the swingarm from pierobon with the 35mm done , so figured a R motor would be better , I talked to Tamburini and the said the run the R motor with the 1100 electronics
Click to expand...


I was talking to Pierobahn and they said they didnt have a bike build kit that allowed for the R engine….but after reading this thread I dunno why one couldn’t do a full Pierobahn build with an R engine.
 
Hatchet said:
Do you not like the dry clutch ??
Click to expand...

It's pointless, the benefits are very marginal, and the negatives fairly high.

Benefits:
1. Engine oil doesn't get contaminated with clutch material.
2. Clutch plates don't 'drag' in oil, so tiny increase in engine power.
3. Easier to carry out maintenance.

Cons:
1. Requires far more maintenance.
2. Very short life span.
3. 'Grabby' when launching the bike.
 
I wonder if the clutch springs used have any effect on the dry clutch longevity and if it can be tuned to suit.

Apparently an additional benefit of the dry clutch is a more effective slipper function compared to wet. Now having said that, I'm thinking that this slipper function is probably the culprit of the accelerated wear.
 
Alkhater said:
I wonder if the clutch springs used have any effect on the dry clutch longevity and if it can be tuned to suit.

Apparently an additional benefit of the dry clutch is a more effective slipper function compared to wet. Now having said that, I'm thinking that this slipper function is probably the culprit of the accelerated wear.
Click to expand...

My understanding is the slipper causes most of the wear. I believe you can get different springs to decrease the wear, but then it's not as smooth.
Having said that, the slipper in my S1000RR is smooth as butter, wet, and didn't need a single minute of maintenance in 10k race miles...
 
RickD996 said:
My understanding is the slipper causes most of the wear. I believe you can get different springs to decrease the wear, but then it's not as smooth.
Having said that, the slipper in my S1000RR is smooth as butter, wet, and didn't need a single minute of maintenance in 10k race miles...
Click to expand...


It’s the same on the new transmission that Ducati is developing for their street bikes…it’s a smooth shifting transmission but the mechanism that MAKES it smooth wears VERY quickly…like in one race. So it wasn’t suitable for street use, but apparently they are developing some kind of tab system that dramatically extends wear on the smooth shifting race tranny so it CAN be used on street bikes.

I hoping the next R will be equipped with it, kinda betting on it…I put a deposit down to be 1st in line for the next V4R that comes out in hopes that it has the new tranny in it.
 
Hatchet said:
I’m racing over in Europe in 2022 and it’s a 1000cc limit on the series I’ll be racing, I was racing CCS with my 1100 and it’s still prefect condition, and finding a R bike is hard , so I was thinking of doing to R motor instead , thank you for all the info
Click to expand...

Which series will you be racing in?
 

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