V4 owners - 15w50 oil reports with testing - Motul 300v / Redline Power Sports / Motul 7100 - Part 1

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@NYCV4S @VYRUS
Since Redline may not ship anymore 15w-50 until April....what are yalls thoughts on topping off with 20w-50 instead (adding for losses from samples and dump for inspections, usually 300-400mL worth)? Any issues mixing?

thanks,
JAG
I don’t recall Red Line Power Sport having 20w50. 20w60 is available, and there’s no problem mixing one Power Sport viscosity with another. Red Line does have 20w50 in their automotive lineup. It wouldn’t cause a disaster if you topped off with a small amount, I would stick with the Power Sport if possible. The 10w50 Power Sport is also available and one of the very best oils money can buy. Your ambient temperature is the determining factor for your choice of viscosity. Over 90F, and 20w60 is preferable.
 
I don’t recall Red Line Power Sport having 20w50. 20w60 is available, and there’s no problem mixing one Power Sport viscosity with another. Red Line does have 20w50 in their automotive lineup. It wouldn’t cause a disaster if you topped off with a small amount, I would stick with the Power Sport if possible. The 10w50 Power Sport is also available and one of the very best oils money can buy. Your ambient temperature is the determining factor for your choice of viscosity. Over 90F, and 20w60 is preferable.
Finding all three in the powersports lineup...

https://www.redlineoil.com/powersports-motor-oil

https://www.redlineoil.com/20w50-motorcycle-oil - available now
https://www.redlineoil.com/20w60-motorcycle-oil - available now
https://www.redlineoil.com/15w50-powersports-oil - available APRIL 2025
 
You’ll be fine. It’s a little thicker on the cold start being a CST 40c of 143 compared to a 15w which is CST 40c of 139. Just be sure to warm her up before operation past 3k rpm .

This is for the redline 20/50 power sports correct?
yes the power sports version...since my 15w-50 wont be available for a couple months...
 
I don’t recall Red Line Power Sport having 20w50. 20w60 is available, and there’s no problem mixing one Power Sport viscosity with another. Red Line does have 20w50 in their automotive lineup. It wouldn’t cause a disaster if you topped off with a small amount, I would stick with the Power Sport if possible. The 10w50 Power Sport is also available and one of the very best oils money can buy. Your ambient temperature is the determining factor for your choice of viscosity. Over 90F, and 20w60 is preferable.
Yeah they have 20/50 for powersports , it is the standard for American vtwin bikes . not much different than the 15/50 formula besides for a touch thicker cold flow viscosity
 
yes the power sports version...since my 15w-50 wont be available for a couple months...
Yeah you’ll be fine. Like I said just be aware of the cold starting and make sure you warm her up without revs . It’s not much of a difference but it is there showing it being thicker . hot rating is no different. cst 100 shows the same values .
 
I don’t recall Red Line Power Sport having 20w50. 20w60 is available, and there’s no problem mixing one Power Sport viscosity with another. Red Line does have 20w50 in their automotive lineup. It wouldn’t cause a disaster if you topped off with a small amount, I would stick with the Power Sport if possible. The 10w50 Power Sport is also available and one of the very best oils money can buy. Your ambient temperature is the determining factor for your choice of viscosity. Over 90F, and 20w60 is preferable.
Is there any data on the Mobil one V twin oil? 20-50W and commonly available.
 
Is there any data on the Mobil one V twin oil? 20-50W and commonly available.
Going to be just like the shell stuff. Mobil 1 isn’t what it used to be and all have less than 800-900 ppm of ZDDP. It’s glorified garbage nowadays. find any oil analysis for any labeled Mobil 1 , besides their racing formula which isn’t EPA approved , you’ll see it’s got nothing much to it. People might be upset that Im saying this but it’s the truth .
 
Going to be just like the shell stuff. Mobil 1 isn’t what it used to be and all have less than 800-900 ppm of ZDDP. It’s glorified garbage nowadays. find any oil analysis for any labeled Mobil 1 , besides their racing formula which isn’t EPA approved , you’ll see it’s got nothing much to it. People might be upset that Im saying this but it’s the truth .
NYCV4S is 100% correct. I’ll add a little more nuance to this subject. I can’t say how or why I have this information, or discuss the most incriminating details. I’m on a very short leash.
You may have noticed a Mobil One decal under the hood of a car or motorcycle you’ve owned. Many of the manufacturers brand name oils are made by Exxon Mobil. As compensation for recommending Mobil One, Exxon Mobil has contracts with the manufacturers and their dealers in which Exxon Mobil provides all of their oil pumping and storage equipment in the factories and dealerships. Exxon Mobil also pays for the storage and removal of their waste oil. In many cases Mobil One pays for all the oil going into the new engines on the assembly line. That Mobil One sticker does a lot of heavy lifting. All of this adds up to a lot of money. Ultimately someone has to pay for all of this free stuff. When Mr Customer buys a $15 quart of Mobil One or a house branded oil Exxon makes, half of that money goes to pay for the free stuff. In order to balance the books so to speak, this money comes from using cheaper chemicals in the oil. All of the money Mobil One pays for advertising and stickers on race cars has to come from somewhere. You really didn’t think there’s an Oil Fairy who pays for all the free stuff?
When you pay $15 for a quart of Mobil One, you actually bought a quart of $7.50 oil. You may have noticed that Red Line and some of the other “boutique” oils don’t spend much on the things Exxon Mobil does. When you pay $20 for a quart of Red Line or the other smaller brands, more of your money goes into the quality of the oil and not into the manufacture’s oil equipment. If you think Exxon Mobil doesn’t know how to make the oil just good enough to get through the warranty period, think again.
 
NYCV4S is 100% correct. I’ll add a little more nuance to this subject. I can’t say how or why I have this information, or discuss the most incriminating details. I’m on a very short leash.
You may have noticed a Mobil One decal under the hood of a car or motorcycle you’ve owned. Many of the manufacturers brand name oils are made by Exxon Mobil. As compensation for recommending Mobil One, Exxon Mobil has contracts with the manufacturers and their dealers in which Exxon Mobil provides all of their oil pumping and storage equipment in the factories and dealerships. Exxon Mobil also pays for the storage and removal of their waste oil. In many cases Mobil One pays for all the oil going into the new engines on the assembly line. That Mobil One sticker does a lot of heavy lifting. All of this adds up to a lot of money. Ultimately someone has to pay for all of this free stuff. When Mr Customer buys a $15 quart of Mobil One or a house branded oil Exxon makes, half of that money goes to pay for the free stuff. In order to balance the books so to speak, this money comes from using cheaper chemicals in the oil. All of the money Mobil One pays for advertising and stickers on race cars has to come from somewhere. You really didn’t think there’s an Oil Fairy who pays for all the free stuff?
When you pay $15 for a quart of Mobil One, you actually bought a quart of $7.50 oil. You may have noticed that Red Line and some of the other “boutique” oils don’t spend much on the things Exxon Mobil does. When you pay $20 for a quart of Red Line or the other smaller brands, more of your money goes into the quality of the oil and not into the manufacture’s oil equipment. If you think Exxon Mobil doesn’t know how to make the oil just good enough to get through the warranty period, think again.
I thought this was common knowledge. The worst offender was Castrol in BMWs in the 90-00s. So much sludge
 
@NYCV4S @VYRUS
Since Redline may not ship anymore 15w-50 until April....what are yalls thoughts on topping off with 20w-50 instead (adding for losses from samples and dump for inspections, usually 300-400mL worth)? Any issues mixing?

thanks,
JAG
What’s this about? I’m trying to get the 15w-50 after this thread 😂
 
My 514 mile red line 15W50 report

Also showing 500 mile on 300v oil but from Blackstone

Samples are 500 miles apart

Elevated aluminum, but lower than previous and other elementals seem to be missing now, while others have increased.

Although I don’t think I can compare these two samples as they were different labs. The next sample will be the most telling and give me trend or the start of a trend anyways.

Hoping the aluminum continues to decline and nothing else shows up


Note that it is still a clear 50 weight will be good to see when the red line starts to shear.

Jag
 

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My 514 mile red line 15W50 report

Also showing 500 mile on 300v oil but from Blackstone

Samples are 500 miles apart

Elevated aluminum, but lower than previous and other elementals seem to be missing now, while others have increased.

Although I don’t think I can compare these two samples as they were different labs. The next sample will be the most telling and give me trend or the start of a trend anyways.

Hoping the aluminum continues to decline and nothing else shows up


Note that it is still a clear 50 weight will be good to see when the red line starts to shear.

Jag
Aluminum. Wonder what the source is. The only place that I can think of where aluminum is used as a bearing surface is the cam saddles.
 
Speediaxnostix's results say in regards to aluminum: "is the main element in most pistons, and some engines utilize aluminum cylinder bores. So, the presence of Aluminum indicates piston and bore wear."
 
Speediaxnostix's results say in regards to aluminum: "is the main element in most pistons, and some engines utilize aluminum cylinder bores. So, the presence of Aluminum indicates piston and bore wear."
The pistons are high silica and the bores nickasil. It's sorta like running silica on silica. You shouldn't see much aluminum after break in. That being said when I bought the set of #2 weight rods they came with a set of scuffed pistons. I assumed it was overheated.
 
My 514 mile red line 15W50 report

Also showing 500 mile on 300v oil but from Blackstone

Samples are 500 miles apart

Elevated aluminum, but lower than previous and other elementals seem to be missing now, while others have increased.

Although I don’t think I can compare these two samples as they were different labs. The next sample will be the most telling and give me trend or the start of a trend anyways.

Hoping the aluminum continues to decline and nothing else shows up


Note that it is still a clear 50 weight will be good to see when the red line starts to shear.

Jag
Looks good. alot better than your last change. Run that new batch of redline for 1k miles this time around and report back on it.

All of your metals dropped which is great to see. That Redline is packed with ZDDP!

Cst100 dropped from 18.9 to 16.7 which is normal range , all 50 and 60 weights will sheer but its good to see that its holding up better than what 300v got down too in the low 15's from an 18 . This proved exactly why you change motorcycle oil in 1000 miles regardless of which oil you use, but also shows the Redline is durable . The Desmosedici stradale puts any oil through torture .

Also found this on reddit in regards to Aluminum for the 1103 V4 ,

"""the aluminum.... there aren't many places where aluminum makes any contact with moving parts. The valve train may have some side contact on the rockers, but it's not under load. The entire transmission is on roller bearings. Pistons have antifriction coating on the skirts. Wrist pins don't move much and have an oil jet pointed at them. Up to 2021 the starter sprag gear ran on a bushing, and they went to a bearing after that, but I haven't seen that fail without an assembly issue. Basically there are the cam journals and the oil pump that contact rotating metal and aluminum. If you had a problem with your cam journal or your oil pump, trust me it wouldn't come up in parts per million on an oil sample. (I've taken one apart that had a plugged oil passage, and another that someone didn't torque the pressure plate bolts on, both motors were destroyed in mere minutes)

Ducati makes dirty motors---


Unless you see shavings, it's probably normal."""



with this being said it shouldn't be an issue to see the PPM of aluminum around the 20's It very well be the transmission as well , Ducatis are known to produce material. Copper and lead are the enemy. Always watch for that.


If anyone here has more info on the materials inside the Desmosedici stradale motor please post here to let us know more details.
 
Try Amazon see if they have it , or an affiliate site that stocks it.
For some reason Red Line 15w/50 has always been hard to get. The simple solution is to mix Red Line 10w/40 Power Sport with 20w/60 Power Sport. The chemical formula is the same except for the viscosity.
 

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