V4 owners - 15w50 oil reports with testing - Motul 300v / Redline Power Sports / Motul 7100 - Part 1

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THANK YOU! 90% of my riding is done 90+ F...its only in the 80s around here for a few weeks in spring and fall....FML
Yeah id run the 20/60 if thats the case. Your bike will run a lot cooler as well. Curious to see what the 60W sheers down too after use, as ALL 50w and 60w have extra polymers in them to up the weight to what is shown, and those polymers burn off fast. No matter the 50w or 60w they always sheer down some, its completely normal.
 
yes, and I was afraid you would say that because even though I won't do a lot of kilometers per year (about 2000km) there will be a lot of heating cycles. As for redline, they will not deliver it directly from the official website but I found a couple of stores in Europe that have it in stock, but the price is expected to be a bit more expensive, $31, and again, I don't know how long it stays on the shelf in the store and is it really important or am I exaggerating
Another good thing is that it's the middle of winter here and I won't be driving for at least 2 months, so I have time to wait for your new results :)

Its as important as how much you are willing to spend on an engine replacement in the future. 31$ x4 quarts is a lot friendlier on the wallet than a brand new Desmosedici Stradale. The good news is that the data is all here for a lot of the oils used for these engines , even the OEM shell trash was proven its not effective for protection.

For street riding Redline @ 1000-2000 miles & for Racing on a track for one day 300V.
 
I used to think the same thing about Loctite on things that were not as critical as oil or axle nuts. As you know, you have red and blue Loctite. Red being permanent. Neither Loctite should ever be used on titanium. Only special “never seize” meant for titanium. Putting Loctite on aluminum bolts will also end badly. Especially Allen bolts. Even standard steel Allen bolts with red Loctite will be a hassle. As I’m sure you’re well aware of, rounding out an Allen bolt is a hassle. One trick to avoid rounding out Allen bolt’s is to always use fresh, undamaged Allen wrenches with a dab of Valve Grinding Compound on the Allen wrench. The compound takes up the tiny slop between the bolt and wrench. A Hand Impact driver you hit with a hammer is good for breaking loose stubborn Allen bolts. Since you may not know if the Allen bolt has Loctite, it’s better to start with compound and/or the Hand Impact before you bugger up the Allen hole. I don’t really care for Allen bolts. Whenever possible, I replace them with titanium or aluminum Torx bolts. For younger riders, Torx bolts are less prone to rounding out than Allen bolts.
Which gets me to the merits of Loctite. I still use thread locker in certain situations. I prefer “omniFIT 100”. It never hardens. It’s also designed to grip in oily conditions. It’s more expensive, but a tube last for years. Another major benefit is it prevents dissimilar metals from galling together over time. I recently bought the Ducati e mountain bike. Like WSBK mechanic’s, I always take apart a new motorcycle and put it back together properly. As I did the same thing to the e-bike, I noticed every one of the aluminum screws was already galled. It was nearly impossible to remove the factory installed screws. I replaced all of them with titanium or stainless steel. Never Seize on all of them. Most were Philips screws, which I replaced with Torx. I’m belaboring these points for new riders who are under the impression that everything new from the factory is hunky dory. Manufacturer’s have to cut cost someplace, and this is a common place. The owner checks that everything is tight and thinks they’re good to go. Try to take it apart in 3 years and you’ll need a sledgehammer and blowtorch.
I’m not criticizing anyone. I did the same things before I gradually learned about different and better ways. I appreciate anyone who offers a better way. I love learning a new trick of the trade. I know I’ve drifted away from the original oil subject and into the ways of keeping the oil where it belongs.
Red loctite breaks down with heat. Personally I only use it on steel bolts and rarely, won't consider using it for other materials. There's is an oil resistant version of loctite also (Ducati uses the medium strength version inside the engines in various places). Case nuts etc, I never use loctite, but I use a the blue a lot on perpherial stuff like body parts. Be careful with the use of anti seize on stuff like spark plugs where they'll end up being assembled for a long time. The stuff will harden from the heat cycles and become a major PITA to disassemble. The only thing I consistently use high temp red is on the big clutch and crank nuts. If you know the history of Ducati relative to the constant redesign of those you'll know why I do this. Heat them with a torch to take them off. Ohlins uses high temp red to retain the ends on the cartridges and the main bushings on these use a high temp heat gun. I am a big fan of Ducati but I simply feel better after I've assembled them. Particularly the motors.
 
I saw Valvoline makes a 15-50 motorcycle oil. Hadn't see a major manufacturer in that weight before. Any testing done there?
 
I saw Valvoline makes a 15-50 motorcycle oil. Hadn't see a major manufacturer in that weight before. Any testing done there?
Its going to be API / EPA certified, safe for the earth , laughable protection for your engine. Wont be much better than the shell stuff. Keep away from it. Use Redline powersport 15/50 instead.
 

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