V4 owners - 15w50 oil reports with testing - Motul 300v / Redline Power Sports / Motul 7100 - Part 1

SirJAG said:

Hey my drain plug looks like that too… kinda nasty black ....…

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The threads being black is the sealant they use from the factory but the magnetic portion looks fantastic compared to the first few changes. Very little on there which is great to see.

Also very important step here , I wish I didn’t wipe away this pan every hour to show you guys . But this is hour # 3 of draining the oil and leaving it to just sit . A lot more oil is being drained as it sits with open plug and oil filter.

In what I’ve noticed it’s best to get the engine hot , zip the plug and let it sit a minimum of 4 hours to get all the oil from the head to drain out. If I didn’t wipe this pan clean every hour like I said , it would be a lot more shown here but as shown It’s still dripping out on the 3rd hour.

The 300v took much longer than my last dump of redline. I was done at two hours. And turning the wheel in 6th stopped spilling more after about 4 turns..

SirJAG said:

The 300v took much longer than my last dump of redline. I was done at two hours. And turning the wheel in 6th stopped spilling more after about 4 turns..

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Didn’t know about the gear 6th gear wheel rotation, just did it and more is still coming out . Thanks

NYCV4S said:

Didn’t know about the gear 6th gear wheel rotation, just did it and more is still coming out . Thanks

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Along these lines...now that I'm proper freaked out over the 3000 mile 300v in my bike and will be changing it before riding season, how best to get it all out?

It's been sitting on stands all winter...should I just pop the plug unstarted because it's been dripping all winter, and then turn her over with the wheel in 6th to get the stragglers, let sit draining overnight and refill? Or start it to get the oil warm, then drain and let sit overnight draining and then rotate wheel to get as much out as can and refill?

Even after the above process, should I run an additional change of the redline through it after letting it get up top full temp just for good measure? How much realistically stays in the bike regardless of how long it drains and what you do?

-John
'20 PV4 Base

SirJAG said:

The 300v took much longer than my last dump of redline. I was done at two hours. And turning the wheel in 6th stopped spilling more after about 4 turns..

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Turning the motor over by hand would clearly speed things along as the heads are draining thru the clearances in their scavenge sections. Good idea.

A016738 said:

Along these lines...now that I'm proper freaked out over the 3000 mile 300v in my bike and will be changing it before riding season, how best to get it all out?

It's been sitting on stands all winter...should I just pop the plug unstarted because it's been dripping all winter, and then turn her over with the wheel in 6th to get the stragglers, let sit draining overnight and refill? Or start it to get the oil warm, then drain and let sit overnight draining and then rotate wheel to get as much out as can and refill?

Even after the above process, should I run an additional change of the redline through it after letting it get up top full temp just for good measure? How much realistically stays in the bike regardless of how long it drains and what you do?

-John
'20 PV4 Base

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Do not start that bike. This is the best opportunity. You will have to get everything out.

The method you described above, will work great.

I ran Virgin redline for about 500 miles and then I dumped it completely

The next time I dumped 500 miles later, it still had a little bit of a greenish tent so I wouldn’t worry too much. It will take you a couple changes to get it all out.

All my miles are very hard and near red line I basically have less than a 20 minute drive to where I’m ripping it up.

I always ran 300 V fresh for track weekends though.

What I’m getting it is your 3000 miles if they weren’t very hard, may not be the Engine killer that it was for me

OK, I think I touched on everything you asked. Good luck, buddy!

Jag

A016738 said:

Along these lines...now that I'm proper freaked out over the 3000 mile 300v in my bike and will be changing it before riding season, how best to get it all out?

It's been sitting on stands all winter...should I just pop the plug unstarted because it's been dripping all winter, and then turn her over with the wheel in 6th to get the stragglers, let sit draining overnight and refill? Or start it to get the oil warm, then drain and let sit overnight draining and then rotate wheel to get as much out as can and refill?

Even after the above process, should I run an additional change of the redline through it after letting it get up top full temp just for good measure? How much realistically stays in the bike regardless of how long it drains and what you do?

-John
'20 PV4 Base

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I would do exactly as you mentioned , I would not start the bike and drop the oil on a cold motor. Refill with ether Redline 15/50 powersports or Maxima extra 4T 15/50. Run that for 500 miles then drop and refill again , safe to run these oils every 2k from there on. This motor sheers oil down very fast. Especially 50W oil as it sheers faster.

Typically id say about 1/4-1/2 quart stays in the system from the oil cooler and passages of the motor. Put it this way after you drop this 300v and swap to redline , the next change you will see green in your oil from the remaining 300v.

if you really want to get down to being sure about whats going on in your engine , do an oil analysis with Speediagnostix . Id actually be very curious to see a 3000 mile sample of 300v and what it looks like viscosity wise.

https://www.speediagnostix.com/shop/p/standard-drain-sample-kit

NYCV4S said:

I would do exactly as you mentioned , I would not start the bike and drop the oil on a cold motor. Refill with ether Redline 15/50 powersports or Maxima extra 4T 15/50. Run that for 500 miles then drop and refill again , safe to run these oils every 2k from there on. This motor sheers oil down very fast. Especially 50W oil as it sheers faster.

Typically id say about 1/4-1/2 quart stays in the system from the oil cooler and passages of the motor. Put it this way after you drop this 300v and swap to redline , the next change you will see green in your oil from the remaining 300v.

if you really want to get down to being sure about whats going on in your engine , do an oil analysis with Speediagnostix . Id actually be very curious to see a 3000 mile sample of 300v and what it looks like viscosity wise.

https://www.speediagnostix.com/shop/p/standard-drain-sample-kit

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I find this comment interesting. Do you think these shear oil faster than say the twins due to crank rotational shear at high rpm. The shear forces would clearly be higher. Never really thought about this. Always thought most of the shear was due to the oil being shared with the gearbox. This is exactly why I love this thread.

baggerman said:

I find this comment interesting. Do you think these shear oil faster than say the twins due to crank rotational shear at high rpm. The shear forces would clearly be higher. Never really thought about this. Always thought most of the shear was due to the oil being shared with the gearbox. This is exactly why I love this thread.

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I had the same question!! Could this thread be the most useful thread ever on this form definitely in the top five. Stevens with all the mods he did is probably number one.

baggerman said:

I find this comment interesting. Do you think these shear oil faster than say the twins due to crank rotational shear at high rpm. The shear forces would clearly be higher. Never really thought about this. Always thought most of the shear was due to the oil being shared with the gearbox. This is exactly why I love this thread.

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As for the oil , all 50W & 60W have alot more added polymers than all other weights like 30-40 ect.. They need these polymers to get to the correct viscosity to be labeled at that listed 50 or 60 weight. Those polymers are synthetic and will naturally break down faster on their own under use. Completely normal , just the nature of the higher weight oils.

As for the motorcycles with shared engine transmission sumps , you are 100% correct , they will always sheer up oil faster than lets say a car would .

You're also correct again , The V4 having such a high RPM , higher compression and more forces generated inside the motor is exactly why this motor abuses oil fast.

The V4R even more so with the added 1500~ rpm.

Now you add a non sheer stable race oil like 300v to the mix , sheers to a 40W after 500mi & running that past 500-1000 miles .....its a time bomb.