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You might want to check that. These triples are 28mm offset with the 0 adapter. 2mm offset put you at 26mm or 30mm (stock) depending on which way you inserted the adapter.
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V4S offset triples - school me
- Thread starter TomFoolery
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Sorry guys, was running to catch a flight, and wrote that backwards
Here’s how I had the shop put mine in…though I went with the 2 not the 3 eccentric
Good thing Tom is smarter than me or I’d be feeling bad about having him put them in backwards lol
Here’s how I had the shop put mine in…though I went with the 2 not the 3 eccentric
Good thing Tom is smarter than me or I’d be feeling bad about having him put them in backwards lol
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Now that the science is settled (jesus, why wouldn't they imprint a little marker arrow on the triple and the inserts?!?), here are some photos.
The IMA top triple is supposedly designed to allow more flex / better feedback.
Slightly heavier than the stock unit.
IMA bottom triple is supposedly engineered to be more rigid than stock.
Again, marginally beefier.
The dang inserts in question - two of each, one for top triple and one for bottom. With zero insert, these clamps are at 28mm offset. #1 makes it 29, #2 30 and #3 31. 1, 2 and 3 can be flipped around (towards rider as we have now established) for 27, 26 or 25mm offsets.
The "power stands" doing their job. There is nothing I hate in motorcycling more than stock bodywork. Freaking screws and clips and bs, takes so long to take the darn bodywork off. Once bike is deemed a keeper, race bodywork is a must do.
The IMA top triple is supposedly designed to allow more flex / better feedback.
Slightly heavier than the stock unit.
IMA bottom triple is supposedly engineered to be more rigid than stock.
Again, marginally beefier.
The dang inserts in question - two of each, one for top triple and one for bottom. With zero insert, these clamps are at 28mm offset. #1 makes it 29, #2 30 and #3 31. 1, 2 and 3 can be flipped around (towards rider as we have now established) for 27, 26 or 25mm offsets.
The "power stands" doing their job. There is nothing I hate in motorcycling more than stock bodywork. Freaking screws and clips and bs, takes so long to take the darn bodywork off. Once bike is deemed a keeper, race bodywork is a must do.
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My life was changed by Dzus fasteners. Switching from OEM to them has saved me countless hours. I love being able to pop off any bodywork panel in less than a minute.
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OK IMA confirmed via email that we are all correct - fat part of the insert goes towards rider to reduce the offset. Enshrining this here for future passers by.
IMA adds an extra locking nut on the top side so that the steering stem stays locked to the steering head at all times. This is meant to facilitate dropping the top and bottom triples independently of the steering stem and bearings, so that you can change out offsets relatively easily in the future.
Also, these steering stops they send have to be adjusted just right on the bottom triple so they don't interfere with the steering on either side. Best to do this after everything is mounted so you can see where they rub and where they don't for adjustment.
@endodoc thanks for the tip on the bearing. I didn't bother with tapered and just re-used my OE bearings since the bike has only 1500 miles on it and OE bearings are still good. More than anything, I didn't want to wait around for the bearings to arrive and dust seals are back ordered. If anyone did want to change out the bearings though, keep in mind that you can change out the entire "bush" (top and bottom races, bearings and dust seals are all encapsulated inside what Ducati calls a "bush" so instead of hammering out the races and hammering new races in, you can replace the entire bush unit as a package if you wanted - one bush up top and one at bottom FYI. You gotta buy two bushes, two bearings and two dust seals).
IMA adds an extra locking nut on the top side so that the steering stem stays locked to the steering head at all times. This is meant to facilitate dropping the top and bottom triples independently of the steering stem and bearings, so that you can change out offsets relatively easily in the future.
Also, these steering stops they send have to be adjusted just right on the bottom triple so they don't interfere with the steering on either side. Best to do this after everything is mounted so you can see where they rub and where they don't for adjustment.
@endodoc thanks for the tip on the bearing. I didn't bother with tapered and just re-used my OE bearings since the bike has only 1500 miles on it and OE bearings are still good. More than anything, I didn't want to wait around for the bearings to arrive and dust seals are back ordered. If anyone did want to change out the bearings though, keep in mind that you can change out the entire "bush" (top and bottom races, bearings and dust seals are all encapsulated inside what Ducati calls a "bush" so instead of hammering out the races and hammering new races in, you can replace the entire bush unit as a package if you wanted - one bush up top and one at bottom FYI. You gotta buy two bushes, two bearings and two dust seals).
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Dude when I took the body work off that bike your buddy sold me after dealing with the Ducati stuff it was like the sun burst forth from the clouds lol
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Excellent right up Tom, thanks for taking the time to do it.
I was wondering how I could get at those eccentrics to change them without taking the whole front end apart.
Was thinking about the overall design, you can change trail just by changing one eccentric if designed right.
The bottom clamp would need some kind of very solid pivot mechanism for the steering stem, then you could have a setup where you could just change the top eccentric and adjust the trail.
Would be an easier to adjust system, kind of a quick change setup.
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On my old 996 you could adjust rake by making a simple adjustment under the top clamp...it's been done before.
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Here’s a useful summary on offset:
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SBU lists them:
Triple Clamp Kits and Chassis Components - Swing Arms and Race Chassis Components
Triple Clamp Kits and Chassis Components - Swing Arms and Race Chassis Components
www.superbikeunlimited.com
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Right but they aren’t rake adjustable.SBU lists them:
Triple Clamp Kits and Chassis Components - Swing Arms and Race Chassis Components
Triple Clamp Kits and Chassis Components - Swing Arms and Race Chassis Components
The set for my r1 is both offset and rake adjustable
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ah, my bad.
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Brad we need to see pics of this trick R1 you are building
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That about the most accurate pic at this point in time lol. Still fiddling with the engine at the moment. Took me weeks just to get new main/rod/counter shaft bearings. Finally fitted them up yesterday to check clearances with some plastigauge. Waiting for head work and cams to get back from cali and for my local machine shop to light diamond hone my cylinders, then the engine will be ready for assembly. A lot of the other major parts won’t be in for a few months
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Are you increasing the cylinder bore and displacement?
Why hone the cylinders, are they that rough that your getting wind age around the pistons?
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I am not increasing bore or stroke. I had to tear this engine down to check a few things since it sat outdoors and may have had water in it. Decided to go with new piston rings so to do that need a light hone on the cylinders just to give it a fresh crosshatch. I could had just kept it as is but figured give it the extra care while I’m in there.
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Nope, leaving the gear set alone totally this year.
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wow, this is a ground up build. What year R1?
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