Joined Jan 2013
28 Posts | 22+
Loudon TN
So, been about 8 years with no bike. Sold my last 1199 back in ‘14 due to the horrid roads and traffic living in the Hampton roads VA area. It’s been a rough 8 years, I started on an 749, 848, then 1199 with an Aprilia RSV Mille and Triumph 955i. Sprinkled in there over the years.
Last Sat, I swung by the local Ducati dealership who had someone back out on a ‘23 V4 purchase.
Test road it, it had 1 mile on it. Bought it and road it home. Sunday I started making it comfortable for me.
Couple things I noticed first. The suspension is harder that my last 2011 1199. I also weigh 60lbs less… Explains a lot. The bike is much wider and heavier than I remember the 1199 feeling. While also understanding that the weight I have loss was primarily muscle mass. Aka.. I’m not as strong as I once was. My joints couldn’t keep up with my mass in my 30’s, so Dr said to lean out and lift less… went from 225 to 165.. All this is to say, I need some advice on suspension settings for the V4 base.The 1199 was pretty simple to set, but I can’t remember the whole F&P thing from nearly a decade ago.
I also am 5’9” have smallish hands so always used shorty Synto Evo levers. Those unfortunately won’t work on the 22+ models. I do prefer larger circumference grips and had rizoma sports on the last 1199. For the first time ever, I actually like the rear set on the base, so no changes there, and then there is the continuity of the horrid look and sound of the base exhaust. That had to go.
Some Notes:
Termi 4USCite ordered from Motostorm.it
3400 roughly shipped with a 50ish customs import fee. Arrived in 3 days from order, shipped immediately. I Highly recommend them.
Rizoma Grips/Bar Ends, because I like the girth of the Rizoma grips for my small ish hands, and the bar ends are perfect match.
Evotech shorty levers, I prefer to break and clutch with two fingers and stay on grips with my other two. These work well, but still not my preferred Synto feel.
Ducabike cover to keep the garage dust and oak pollen away.
Ducati comfort seat, because I like my back and butt to not hurt (as much)
I am an Aircraft mechanic, inspector, commercial pilot, and an Aerospace Engineer w/ NASA. I installed everything myself.
The Termi 4USCite system Instuctions are not 100% compatible with the ‘23.
Issue #1,
The Forward Left cylinder’s Termi manifold cannot be tightened down prior to installing the mid pipes. The mid pipes under the bike are welded together, the spacing is set, the manifold pipes must be moved to facilitate install of the mid pipe. I realized this after I had reassembled the fan, radiator, secured all the lines and planned to continue to use the OEM evap canister set up. Luckily, without the OEM heat shield on the forward manifolds I was able to losses the top and outside nuts with a ratcheting 8mm wrench to fit the mid pipes then tighten it back up. Right after this is when I discovered issue #2
Issue #2
You must remove the evap canister and housing if you install the oem O2 sensors. There is no clearance for both. Impossible to do. What I decided was to leave the purge valve, and used the OEM “T” fitting in the drain line set up. Now, the tank vent is hooked straight to the drain with the 90 degree “T” going to the purge valve by removing the OEM line from the bottom of the purge valve, and replacing it with about 6 inches of new fuel hose.
Issue #3
The aft right O2 sensor OEM routing requires relocation this was simple to do, but could have been done in a much cleaner way had I known prior to having installed the aft cylinder manifolds, upper tank heat shield, and aft midpipes. Significant rework for no gain wasn’t in the cards for getting this done last night. Issue #4 explains why.
Issue # 4
You will need a 1/4” drive universal “swivel” socket and at least 1ft of extensions to make removal of the aft cylinder’s OEM manifolds. These will help you on the Termi manifold installs except on the bottom right nuts on both aft cylinders. You would be well off to have a shaved down 5/16 or 8mm ( same size btw) wrench. I happen to have a 5/16 -1/4 combi box end wrench that I had shaved down back in 2006 when I was a young aircraft turbine engine mechanic. I still was only able to move it 1/2 flats at a time. You can use a standard 8mm or 5/12 box end but you’ll only get about 1 flat turn per flip of the wrench…. It sucks every way you look at it and is due to the design of the manifolds. You can however, tighten these down completely before installing the mid pipe.
Issue #5
The right side brake master cylinder/heat shield instructions won’t work for. ‘23. Ducati must have changed the break master cylinder and reservoir locations/design since the Termi instructions were made. My solution was to run the provided bolt/spacer from the head through the inside of the heat shield and tighten/ thread that into the rearset mount. The bold thread is long enough to pass through the rearset and break master cylinder allowing me to tighten the master cylinder to the rearset In the OEM designed position with the provided self locking nut.
Issue #6
It’s been a while since I’ve messed with any motorcycles. The T800 device was Greek to me. Once I got to that point I had to learn how to use it, then realize there is NO Termi 4USCite map available for the 22 or 23 v4. (Unless I’m just too newb with this thing to know how to find it)
What I did instead was install the 22-23 Akro full system w/o baffles upmap.
Test rode it this morning to shake down the bike, no check engine light after about 50 yards of riding.
And….. Holy $*!% the bike sounds like it should, breaths like it should, and the power is stupid. In Race A the front wheel wants to fly even with the winglets. No check engine light from the evap canister removal, was worried about that. No roughness, no stutter just stupid power. I cannot wait to get back to my property In TN and ride on the roads I love dearly. In the meantime, learning this bike in Central Florida is not ideal but way better than eastern VA.
Cheers!
Last Sat, I swung by the local Ducati dealership who had someone back out on a ‘23 V4 purchase.
Test road it, it had 1 mile on it. Bought it and road it home. Sunday I started making it comfortable for me.
Couple things I noticed first. The suspension is harder that my last 2011 1199. I also weigh 60lbs less… Explains a lot. The bike is much wider and heavier than I remember the 1199 feeling. While also understanding that the weight I have loss was primarily muscle mass. Aka.. I’m not as strong as I once was. My joints couldn’t keep up with my mass in my 30’s, so Dr said to lean out and lift less… went from 225 to 165.. All this is to say, I need some advice on suspension settings for the V4 base.The 1199 was pretty simple to set, but I can’t remember the whole F&P thing from nearly a decade ago.
I also am 5’9” have smallish hands so always used shorty Synto Evo levers. Those unfortunately won’t work on the 22+ models. I do prefer larger circumference grips and had rizoma sports on the last 1199. For the first time ever, I actually like the rear set on the base, so no changes there, and then there is the continuity of the horrid look and sound of the base exhaust. That had to go.
Some Notes:
Termi 4USCite ordered from Motostorm.it
3400 roughly shipped with a 50ish customs import fee. Arrived in 3 days from order, shipped immediately. I Highly recommend them.
Rizoma Grips/Bar Ends, because I like the girth of the Rizoma grips for my small ish hands, and the bar ends are perfect match.
Evotech shorty levers, I prefer to break and clutch with two fingers and stay on grips with my other two. These work well, but still not my preferred Synto feel.
Ducabike cover to keep the garage dust and oak pollen away.
Ducati comfort seat, because I like my back and butt to not hurt (as much)
I am an Aircraft mechanic, inspector, commercial pilot, and an Aerospace Engineer w/ NASA. I installed everything myself.
The Termi 4USCite system Instuctions are not 100% compatible with the ‘23.
Issue #1,
The Forward Left cylinder’s Termi manifold cannot be tightened down prior to installing the mid pipes. The mid pipes under the bike are welded together, the spacing is set, the manifold pipes must be moved to facilitate install of the mid pipe. I realized this after I had reassembled the fan, radiator, secured all the lines and planned to continue to use the OEM evap canister set up. Luckily, without the OEM heat shield on the forward manifolds I was able to losses the top and outside nuts with a ratcheting 8mm wrench to fit the mid pipes then tighten it back up. Right after this is when I discovered issue #2
Issue #2
You must remove the evap canister and housing if you install the oem O2 sensors. There is no clearance for both. Impossible to do. What I decided was to leave the purge valve, and used the OEM “T” fitting in the drain line set up. Now, the tank vent is hooked straight to the drain with the 90 degree “T” going to the purge valve by removing the OEM line from the bottom of the purge valve, and replacing it with about 6 inches of new fuel hose.
Issue #3
The aft right O2 sensor OEM routing requires relocation this was simple to do, but could have been done in a much cleaner way had I known prior to having installed the aft cylinder manifolds, upper tank heat shield, and aft midpipes. Significant rework for no gain wasn’t in the cards for getting this done last night. Issue #4 explains why.
Issue # 4
You will need a 1/4” drive universal “swivel” socket and at least 1ft of extensions to make removal of the aft cylinder’s OEM manifolds. These will help you on the Termi manifold installs except on the bottom right nuts on both aft cylinders. You would be well off to have a shaved down 5/16 or 8mm ( same size btw) wrench. I happen to have a 5/16 -1/4 combi box end wrench that I had shaved down back in 2006 when I was a young aircraft turbine engine mechanic. I still was only able to move it 1/2 flats at a time. You can use a standard 8mm or 5/12 box end but you’ll only get about 1 flat turn per flip of the wrench…. It sucks every way you look at it and is due to the design of the manifolds. You can however, tighten these down completely before installing the mid pipe.
Issue #5
The right side brake master cylinder/heat shield instructions won’t work for. ‘23. Ducati must have changed the break master cylinder and reservoir locations/design since the Termi instructions were made. My solution was to run the provided bolt/spacer from the head through the inside of the heat shield and tighten/ thread that into the rearset mount. The bold thread is long enough to pass through the rearset and break master cylinder allowing me to tighten the master cylinder to the rearset In the OEM designed position with the provided self locking nut.
Issue #6
It’s been a while since I’ve messed with any motorcycles. The T800 device was Greek to me. Once I got to that point I had to learn how to use it, then realize there is NO Termi 4USCite map available for the 22 or 23 v4. (Unless I’m just too newb with this thing to know how to find it)
What I did instead was install the 22-23 Akro full system w/o baffles upmap.
Test rode it this morning to shake down the bike, no check engine light after about 50 yards of riding.
And….. Holy $*!% the bike sounds like it should, breaths like it should, and the power is stupid. In Race A the front wheel wants to fly even with the winglets. No check engine light from the evap canister removal, was worried about that. No roughness, no stutter just stupid power. I cannot wait to get back to my property In TN and ride on the roads I love dearly. In the meantime, learning this bike in Central Florida is not ideal but way better than eastern VA.
Cheers!
