wheelies on the Panigale

Quiet Bloke said:

I think that is referring to stoppies, not wheelies?

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Yes, anti-lift has to do with hard braking, and the rear wheel lifting up.

There is NO anti-wheelie for the 1199! If your front wheel is coming back down it's either because your rear slipped, or you unconsciously backed off the throttle.....or you were accidentally stepping on the rear brake ;-)

no problem

Chadf80 said:

It looks like there is no way to get the front tire off the ground more than an inch or so before traction intervenes. Or at least this is the case in race mode with DTC set on '2'. Although I could simply turn DTC completely off, this looks like it would be a trade off when riding aggressively and when you need the DTC. Any thoughts?[/QUO

i think this is a little ridicoulous, however, if you cannot lift the front tire on "2012 Superbike of the YEAR" then you have issues. just have to be smarter than the bike, think about it can't wheelie with DTC on, shut it off. Its like wearing winter cloths in the summer.

i can get the bike around 10 - 12 o'clock position everytime no problem, and ride them out! Hope there's no police watching me!

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I can still do the stoppies just fine at ABS level 3. my front is not lifting with ABS on at both wheels, with ABS off on the back wheel, my front wheel loses the ability to squish scorpions above 8k

I have had no problem either. Its all about throttle control. Smooth , I actually prefer race mode the wheel comes up so much slower whether using clutch or power. If you are choppy or abupt, the trction control kicks in and the bike just bucks. If you are real smooth no problem. This is actually the first bike i have owned that stock gearing wasnt too bad.

ed218 said:

I have had no problem either. Its all about throttle control. Smooth , I actually prefer race mode the wheel comes up so much slower whether using clutch or power. If you are choppy or abupt, the trction control kicks in and the bike just bucks. If you are real smooth no problem. This is actually the first bike i have owned that stock gearing wasnt too bad.

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Same here, I thought about changing the gearing. Seems good as is, just going to go 520.

Yesterday prior to a spirited ride the front could be coaxed up at will....but during/after some very spirited, high-rpm blasts the front would not. I'm still thinking that there's some sort of 'learning' the ECU does based on current riding style--and when it gets aggressive, some sort of wheelie intervention comes into play. Eased off the pace a bit and once again...front up at will.

mine pull up wheelie on all 4 gear with no problem , in fourth gear i have to use the clutch, no wheelie controle, my dtc is on 3

Drop 1 tooth on the front sprocket and it's even better!!!

There has to be a form of wheelie control on my bike: If I give it full throttle in first gear at 3000 rpm, instead of tire spinning and or the front wheel rising, the engine completely bogs down and surges until it reaches about 7500 rpm. It makes for one rough ride. If I try a clutch wheelie, when I let out the clutch, instead of a wheelie, the rpms drop. I hope Ducati provides a map that gives it a much smoother power delivery.

Race mode......DTC 2 and the bike wheelies with no problem. In fact it wheelies like a madman.

Race mode dct 2... Are you clutching or power wheeling? Where are your rpms when you wheelie like a madman?

You have to WOT and it comes up around 8K. It's tricky IMO, I'm just learning how to wheelie with this bike. My natural instinct is to apply as much throttle while maintaining both wheels on the ground.

After reading this thread today I gave it a go....

In sport mode DTC at stock level 5.
Short shift into 2nd then WOT..... Little hesitation then .... goes crazy... 8000 rpm my front wheel is headed north VERY FAST then rev limiter cuts in at around 135 km/h and it drops like a sack of potatoes... Didn't have the balls to QS into 3rd today...

Chadf80 said:

Race mode dct 2... Are you clutching or power wheeling? Where are your rpms when you wheelie like a madman?

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Only throttle and no clutch. I just roll into the throttle hard and the bike comes up no problem. Have to be smooth because the rear tire moves around and will spin up if your not careful.

Something wrong with your bike Chadf80? I dont pull wheelies intentionally but even I've had the wheel way off the ground.

I wouldn't say there is something wrong with my bike but I would like to try an engine map hay gives it a smooth linear power band. Just to be clear, when ever you give the bike full throttle from say a speed of 10mph, the bike doesn't surge and buck around like a bull?

seriously?? if you cant get the front tire off the ground on this machine then you probably have issues. if i was you i'd clutch(3k - 4k) at lower rmp's helps bump the bike, or throttle higher rpms(6K-8k)

You don't NEED any clutching up on this bike (unless you prefer of course)! It's got 195bhp and 98lbf. If there is nothing wrong with your bike then it WILL come up in 1st VERY fast, you don't even need WOT! It will definitely come up in the second half of the RPM range in 2nd, and if you don't weigh a ton and sit back a bit, it will start to come up in 3rd! There is absolutely ZERO intentional wheelie control. If your bike is cutting out and not letting you lift, either something is wrong or you are smacking the throttle wide open (which you should NEVER do, ALWAYS roll the throttle on smoothly in ALL situations, that's just proper riding/racing technique) and the DTC is stepping in.

If you can't get the front wheel up in 1st and 2nd with just throttle, there's either something wrong with the bike, or you. Plain and simple.

(are you sure you don't have the engine mapping in 120 mode?? )

Side note edit: I am not endorsing people going out and attempting wheelies btw. I firmly believe that unless you are a stuntah on a stunt bike, wheelies are relatively stupid and counter-productive to the purpose of bikes like the 1199. These comments are solely to help you realize whether something is wrong with your bike.

MacaveliMC said:

You don't NEED any clutching up on this bike (unless you prefer of course)! It's got 195bhp and 98lbf. If there is nothing wrong with your bike then it WILL come up in 1st VERY fast, you don't even need WOT! It will definitely come up in the second half of the RPM range in 2nd, and if you don't weigh a ton and sit back a bit, it will start to come up in 3rd! There is absolutely ZERO intentional wheelie control. If your bike is cutting out and not letting you lift, either something is wrong or you are smacking the throttle wide open (which you should NEVER do, ALWAYS roll the throttle on smoothly in ALL situations, that's just proper riding/racing technique) and the DTC is stepping in.

If you can't get the front wheel up in 1st and 2nd with just throttle, there's either something wrong with the bike, or you. Plain and simple.

(are you sure you don't have the engine mapping in 120 mode?? )

Side note edit: I am not endorsing people going out and attempting wheelies btw. I firmly believe that unless you are a stuntah on a stunt bike, wheelies are relatively stupid and counter-productive to the purpose of bikes like the 1199. These comments are solely to help you realize whether something is wrong with your bike.

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yeah what he said, but i like clutching at low rpms personally!

Clutch is most consistent and controllable method if one is versed in wheelies.

However, I have a method for those without the wheelie gene. NOTE: I do not have the wheelie gene, I am not a wheelie master, and I am not a professional instructor. The information below is for entertainment and flaming.

My Sport settings on the Panigale on 195Hi. DTC 4. EBC 3. ABS 2. DQS on. Suspension in Flat. None of this would probably matter to a wheelie master.

Cover the brakes. Sit up (not tucked in), relaxed, with your bum in the rear of the seat. Kind of anchored against the rear seat pad. Sitting up will make the bike balance at a lower position. Bum position helps so you don't slide around and puts weight on the rear tyre to help with grip.

Second gear, steady throttle. Listen and feel the engine. Around 6,000 RPM, the bike will sound and feel as though the torque is ready to come in. Experiment with this as bikes are different.

Quickly and smoothly, crack the throttle about 1/4 turn or so. Front end should begin to rise smoothly. Hold the throttle. Do not continue to roll on or the bike will begin to rise too quickly and too high.

If you get psyched out, the front gets too high, etc., roll off throttle and/or tap rear brake to bring the front wheel down.

Once you are comfortable and consistent with the front coming up, work to find the balance point. Then you can develop your technique for riding the wheelie.

Hint: Quick shifter makes riding multiple gear wheelies much easier.
Hint: Wheelie masters can hold a one gear wheelie for as long as they want, floating along at a comfortable RPM using the throttle and rear brake for fine control. This can lead to engine failure due to oil starvation on many bikes. See wheelie master and mechanic for additional information.

Have fun and be safe experimenting with what works for you and/or find a wheelie master instructor.

My $0.01 in these times of inflation.