When to change fork fluid?

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Before you take the forks off the bike you need to adjust the preload (this should change the height of the lock nut and make it accessible) and loosen the cap (with the top triple clamps loosened). Also, with the 1199S I put it in rain mode... simpler than going in the menu and dialing it all down. Ideally you could set them to max(or minimum depending on the bike) but I figure rain mode is half way there.
 
airjawed said:
Before you take the forks off the bike you need to adjust the preload (this should change the height of the lock nut and make it accessible) and loosen the cap (with the top triple clamps loosened). Also, with the 1199S I put it in rain mode... simpler than going in the menu and dialing it all down. Ideally you could set them to max(or minimum depending on the bike) but I figure rain mode is half way there.
Click to expand...

So this may explain why the jam nut was all the way inside the cap since i just unplug my (race mode) without put it to rain mode or take all the preload out, thx
 
Let us know how it goes and what tricks you got to work. I'm still in the middle of my fork rebuild. Trying to find the correct size seals without having to buy them from the dealer.
 
The preload nut is a little different from other bikes in that when you look at it from the outside its height appears not to change. But on the other side the height changes. When the whole thing is on the bike the outside housing is held in place and the rotation of the ride height nut on the outside results in the inside moving. If the cap has been opened then you need to hold the outer housing still while rotating the ride height nut.

Hold the silver part while rotating the blue part. This should make lock nut accessible.
 
airjawed said:
The preload nut is a little different from other bikes in that when you look at it from the outside its height appears not to change. But on the other side the height changes. When the whole thing is on the bike the outside housing is held in place and the rotation of the ride height nut on the outside results in the inside moving. If the cap has been opened then you need to hold the outer housing still while rotating the ride height nut.

Hold the silver part while rotating the blue part. This should make lock nut accessible.
Click to expand...

Yeah my issue is that i didn't back out preload adjuster before i took it apart (lesson learn). Shop manual said Preload has to be done by hands and not on the dashboard
This video is the best so far for Ohlin shock rebuild.
 
Dang, I don't know what to think of myself, but I just watched those 30mins with the same intensity as I had watching the Game of Thrones s7 finale with.

Having fumbled through this, that guy knows what's up!
 
FYI... according to ohlins usa and kyle racing the oil height is 220 mm from the top with the springs and spacer out for a 2012 1199S. The reason for some much less is the electronic servo takes up a lot of the air space.
 
airjawed said:
FYI... according to ohlins usa and kyle racing the oil height is 220 mm from the top with the springs and spacer out for a 2012 1199S. The reason for some much less is the electronic servo takes up a lot of the air space.
Click to expand...

I don't remember where i'd read that you shouldn't measure your fluid with spring and spacer. However, from "2013 Ducati Superbike Panigale S Tricolore 1199 Workshop Manual" on page 38/1209 stated 155cc per fork (same as 2015 1299s). not sure why would standard fork would be different
 
Last edited:
The standard non electronic fork cap is much shorter. Hence, less air gap. Pic attached of 2012 1199S ohlins with electronic suspension:
20191215_193952.jpg
 
Just like engine oil it will get sludgy and dirty, and then start to gum stuff up. It starts to degrade and won't work as well as it did when new.
 
There is actually a significant difference between the need to replace shock oil vs engine oil. Engine oil is subject to blow by and VERY different forces acting within the engine. They both are subject to condensation which is probably the only real factor degrading shock oil.
 
Just throwing it out there, I picked up a 2016 Panagale R model back in June. the front end was very harsh, enough so that I was thinking it was over sprung and the previous owner made some changes to them. I just tore them down this weekend and serviced them. The oil looked like used motor oil! with small bits of gunk floating around. The springs were OEM as well so looks like that was the first time they had ever been apart. So I put new seals and changed the oil. Have not ridden it yet though but I'm curious to see if that was the culprit with the front end.

For those of you who will do this service yourself you will want to invest in a cartridge holding tool. The dampening cartridge was installed with lock tight into the bottom of the fork leg and where it is supposed to come apart. It was kind of a bitch to get it apart but with a bit of heat and some muscle it came apart.
 

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