Woolich just added V4

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I was thinking about how I was going to sort out the tune for a full Akra system. I'd rather put the money I'd be paying the dealer to flash the bike into this.
 
Good system, been using it on the 99 for years. I no longer keep the log box or the wide band's on the bike. I mounted the Zeitronix boxes and the log box in a small pelican case that I can throw in a back pack. I just screw in the wide bands into the pipe and plug in a harness (5 min process)if I want to log anything otherwise, I just run open loop (no O2 sensors attached). Once you get the bike session tuned, unless you alter the intake, exhaust, fuel or possibly a large change in density altitude, you do not need the components unless of course you like looking at data. Additionally, if the V4 software is similar to the 99 you will be able to view any ECU programing previously done so you can look at what the other tuner's sold you. Nifty
 
Just so I understand fully....it doesn't offer real time tuning. It logs with wideband sensors and you can modify the table then apply it? A dyno session would be best where you could work the entire RPM range in every gear. Correct?
 
bp_SFV4 said:
Just so I understand fully....it doesn't offer real time tuning. It logs with wideband sensors and you can modify the table then apply it? A dyno session would be best where you could work the entire RPM range in every gear. Correct?
Click to expand...

Correct. You put it on a dyno and get a comprehensive tune. No reason for any learning software or anything like that once the tune is applied unless you're racing in drastically different climates and elevations.
 
An excellent option, it offers the same functionality as the dimsport based mediums (i.e. slr tuning) however; they do mention an auto-tune function with the addition of the log box and O2 controller.
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One of the nice things about the Woolich set up is that you don't have to have access to a dyno (although it is a bit safer than doing wide open pulls on a public road). If you have the wideband O2 sensors it will log your AFR as you ride the bike on the street or track. After the ride you plug it into a laptop and open the auto tune function. You select the last log file and then you apply the auto tune to the most recent AFR log file. It adjusts both the IAP map and the TPS map. Then reflash your ECU with the updated maps. Its pretty easy. After a few times the AFR is pretty close to ideal.

If you have access to a dyno then you can do the whole process in real time.

You can also share your maps in their library. So if you just get the Logbox, downloading the map files from their site is pretty easy.

Its a nice set up and offers the ability to custom tune your bike anytime you make any changes (if you want to chase after the max performance of your bike in it current configuration).
 
I'd rather do it on a dyno. I like the idea of being able to strip off the farings, install it with the widebands, dyno tune then take all that stuff off and button the bike back up.

I had a Tuneboy setup with widebands on my 1199 that I left on and would use a laptop in a backback to record then correct and apply. The speeds you have to be going its a bit much unless you have some straight deserted road you can hit. The wiring for wideband sensors is a bit much length wise. If I were going to leave it on the bike 24/7 I'd be chopping a lot of that wire out and adding my own connectors.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
I'd rather do it on a dyno. I like the idea of being able to strip off the farings, install it with the widebands, dyno tune then take all that stuff off and button the bike back up.

I had a Tuneboy setup with widebands on my 1199 that I left on and would use a laptop in a backback to record then correct and apply. The speeds you have to be going its a bit much unless you have some straight deserted road you can hit. The wiring for wideband sensors is a bit much length wise. If I were going to leave it on the bike 24/7 I'd be chopping a lot of that wire out and adding my own connectors.
Click to expand...
Ideally both road and dyno tunes would be best. A dyno can allow for lots of detailed work on the tune when it's a steady state dyno... that is when you're able to hold at any desired rpm/gear and tune varying load (throttle positions). This is the best way to adjust for MBT (maximum brake timing) at any given rpm vs load while using knock detection.

Road tuning should be done to touch up on the dyno tune as the dyno can't replicate a real riding scenario with variations like wind resistance, ram effects and rider weight.
 
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To that end, I think doing the same on the track would be better. To that end, I don't know if the logged data would look that different at 100% throttle in 3rd gear between COTA and Willow Springs.
 
rac1ngsnak3 said:
Because 215-230 hp on a “liter” bike isn’t enough for your street/track bike
Click to expand...

Some people are chasing HP but not everyone.

I have a very unique exhaust not many people have, so I've been forced to use a map for a different exhaust. On top of that, whatever update they made to the map I was using completely ...... everything up and the fueling is terrible. OEM would have it running wildly lean. I currently have the old O2 sensors removed so it defaults to running rich, but that only helps in the closed loop.

Properly tuned machines feel worlds better than stock or piggyback device tunes. You would understand if you have ever had it done
 

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