Mis-shifts 1-2

[stgatev]

Hi gang,

I have a question that you might be able to help me with: On occasion, under load, when trying to upshift from 1st to 2nd, I get into neutral. Or, less frequently, it will go into 2nd and then drop into neutral after a fraction of a second.

Up and down shifts from 2-3-4-5-6 are easy and precise. When the bike was new, I did have occasional 5th to 6th gear misses, but now they are fine.

I am at 3,000 miles currently, oil is Motul 7100, changed at 2,000 miles, regular shift pattern.

Any suggestions?

 

[SirJAG]

you are prolly not being aggressive enough...pull and push harder on that thing and see if it improves.

The stock setup is pretty ...... with a lot of play, aftermarket rearrests will help a lot. Also, have you adjusted that knuckle or shift rode length any? have you adjusted the toe lever up/down any? These things are very very suspecptible to variations causing shifting issues...there is basically one position that is supported only

now, once you start getting locked out of gear, as in you pull or push and the bike doesnt cut out timing to allow for a shift, then you need to replace the quick shifter...the weak point is the ...... push button inside the unit...it just fails after heavy use... i have three on my bench now currently, i burn through them about every 3000-5000 miles.

good luck mate
JAG

 

[stgatev]

you are prolly not being aggressive enough...pull and push harder on that thing and see if it improves.

The stock setup is pretty ...... with a lot of play, aftermarket rearrests will help a lot. Also, have you adjusted that knuckle or shift rode length any? have you adjusted the toe lever up/down any? These things are very very suspecptible to variations causing shifting issues...there is basically one position that is supported only

now, once you start getting locked out of gear, as in you pull or push and the bike doesnt cut out timing to allow for a shift, then you need to replace the quick shifter...the weak point is the ...... push button inside the unit...it just fails after heavy use... i have three on my bench now currently, i burn through them about every 3000-5000 miles.

good luck mate
JAG

Thanks JAG,

I try to be very deliberate with the upshifts, but sometimes the ride goes so smoothly and everything just flows, I forget to bang it, and then I am abruptly brought down to earth by the rev limiter :|

I have not adjusted the rod in any way. I am thinking if I can lower the shifter pedal a bit, that might help?

I also read about the shift support bracket (Racetorx) -- are they any good? I checked the shifter shaft for play and it seemed solid, but then I was using my hand, not kicking it hard. There is some play on both sides of the rod, but I think it is by design.

 

[SirJAG]

you can lower the toe peg a bit, to give yourself a little more leverage...but its a fine line between more leverage, and CANNOT shift into gear..youll see what i mean when you start messing with it.

that racetorx is the .... man, get it and never look back, makes it feel like a bolt action rifle with aftermarket rearsets as well....by itself yes will be beneficial, but max benefit with new rearsets.

weakest links in the stock system is that ...... knuckle play, and the pivot point in the rearset buddy.

best of luck my man,
JAG

 

[airjawed]

What riding boots? Quick shifters work better with more force, which is what you get with proper riding boots. As has been said, adjust lever so that you get full range of movement for upshifts. If you aren't pushing on the lever all the way to its stop you will get false neutral or pop outs.

 

[SirJAG]

good point on boots! didnt think of that though...never ride in anything else...

 

[stgatev]

What riding boots? Quick shifters work better with more force, which is what you get with proper riding boots. As has been said, adjust lever so that you get full range of movement for upshifts. If you aren't pushing on the lever all the way to its stop you will get false neutral or pop outs.

I always ride with boots. Either Sidi Mag-1 or Dainese Axial.

 

[DV4]

What jag said, there is a lot of play in the stock setup, at the lever pivot and the bearing supporting the splined gearbox shaft. For the former you can shim it which gives some improvement and for the latter you can get an aftermarket housing that bolts on. The difference between stock and upgraded is night and day, as for the adjustment it's a real PITA but worth it. Get on the bike with boots with someone to help you adjust it so that you get really positive shifting action, I highly recommend GP shift, it helps remove false neutrals because its easier to tap down and once you get used to it youll never go back.

 

[SuperDomestique]

Hi gang,

I have a question that you might be able to help me with: On occasion, under load, when trying to upshift from 1st to 2nd, I get into neutral. Or, less frequently, it will go into 2nd and then drop into neutral after a fraction of a second.

Up and down shifts from 2-3-4-5-6 are easy and precise. When the bike was new, I did have occasional 5th to 6th gear misses, but now they are fine.

I am at 3,000 miles currently, oil is Motul 7100, changed at 2,000 miles, regular shift pattern.

Any suggestions?

View attachment 51478

Might be worth clocking the shift lever counterclockwise a tooth or 2 so that linkage and it are 90° to each other

 

[stgatev]

I installed a RaceTorx shift gear support bracket, and my initial impressions are positive. Need to ride some more before I have a fully formed opinion.