1199s Electronic Suspension
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You need to get the preload adjusted for your weight in riding gear first. The 1199S doesn't self adjust like the V4S and self adjust isn't the right word. It is more of a semi-active adjustment. The bike makes adjustments based on speed, lean angle, braking etc.
On the 1199S, you make adjustments per riding mode using the electronics.
On the 1199S, you make adjustments per riding mode using the electronics.
sorry i was not clear enogouth on my original question, i know presetting Preload and my "clicks" and i know it is not an active electronic souspension (and sorry i did not mention it originally it is an S and it has electronic "clicks" so i removed the suspension with set clicks and reinstalled it and now is the question, does the suspension know where the clicks were/are?
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After a rebuild with new fluid, the adjustment points are going to change. You'll need to start at your former 'baseline' (clicks) and see if things have changed and make the appropriate changes to get the feeling and performance you had before. Be sure to slow the rebound down as much as possible to prevent adverse quick rebound problems that can cause tire wear patterns and unstable steering. Did you go back to the stock fluid or did you get heavier fluid? Mine is set up with 15W Maxima in the front and 10W in the rear with 60psi in the gas chamber in the rear. I'm 92 Kilos, so the thicker fluid is a must in my application.
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Why do you only have 60psi in your shock? That sounds extremely low?
I would have thought like most shocks 10 to 12 bar or 150-175psi?
I would have thought like most shocks 10 to 12 bar or 150-175psi?
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The 10 bar (Stock) pressure in the rear is used to prevent cavitation, although it also acts like an 'air spring' and provides extra pressure for the extension of the shock. Since the 2.5W 'stock' oil (at the same pressure) will cavitate more easily than the 10W I'm using, more pressure is now not really necessary. It may have an air spring affect, but it's pressurized to keep cavitation down and the fluid dynamics of the valving consistent. I'm already running 10W in the rear, instead of the 2.5w the shock came with (It's a Sachs). With the thicker fluid the rebound adjuster can be closed with the shock compressed and it will not extend, the same for compression. It would not do that with the stock fluid and pressure. I could run more pressure, but it doesn't feel like it's necessary. Even with only 4 bar (60 psi) it's very stiff, the adjusters have more immediate affect on the feel, and are much firmer now compared to stock pressures and oil. I actually have two rear shocks to test against each other. The other is totally stock, that I got from one of the members in this forum. My shock, with 4x thicker fluid and 60 psi in gas chamber is notably stiffer and firmer than the stock shock with normal oil/pressure. I have yet to run it so hard that it feels like it's losing hydraulic control from getting too hot.
A lot of people get onto the treadmill of 'if the book says so you must do it that way'. Which is why I run 30/32 F/R tire pressure on the street instead of the stock tire pressures (34/38) and have changed the ergonomics of the hand controls, rear sets, f/r ride heights and suspension settings to tune the bike for how I want it to feel. The factory settings and numbers are just baselines from which to deviate to make the bike do what you want it to do and ride the way you prefer. So, yeah, it works for me. Your results may vary.
A lot of people get onto the treadmill of 'if the book says so you must do it that way'. Which is why I run 30/32 F/R tire pressure on the street instead of the stock tire pressures (34/38) and have changed the ergonomics of the hand controls, rear sets, f/r ride heights and suspension settings to tune the bike for how I want it to feel. The factory settings and numbers are just baselines from which to deviate to make the bike do what you want it to do and ride the way you prefer. So, yeah, it works for me. Your results may vary.
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I think all you have done is allow or increase the chances of cavitation and add hysteresis to your damping.
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I don’t believe you need to do anything except check your preload is what it was when you removed it. The electronic clickers should not have moved.
But i suggest you ask the person who overhauled it if they changed the preload from where it was.
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I think you are over-thinking this. The basic operation of the shock is the same. Unless they changed the fluid designation to a heavier Winter rating, all you do is set back to default parameters or what you originally had in the settings and go from there. It doesn't matter to the shock once you plug it back into your bike's electronics, it goes back to what you had set by adjusting the fluid damping positions of the solenoids to what you already have dialed in. The moment you go over some bumps the electronics will adapt to any changes made. You also have Dynamic Mode, and the electronics will re-learn your riding style and road dynamics as necessary.
Just get on the bike and ride it. Change your settings as necessary for how you feel things should be. Nothing should have changed, except for the damping becoming more pronounced due to new fluid. But if it has, and you are manually setting the damping, then adjust accordingly. Simple as that.
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Denser fluids are harder to cavitate. Water is water, but dense water (at 1000 feet depth) is incredibly hard to cavitate vis-a-vis water at the surface. This is not only due to the pressure, but the perceived 'density', and thus flow-resistance through an orifice, being higher in the more pressurized liquid. Thicker density liquids requires less pressure for the same level of cavitation resistance. Water isn't the best fluid for this example, but it's the easiest to relate to.
It all comes down to shear strength (water is very low), and how easily a fluid can be forced to create a vacuum (cavitation) in a given environment. Thick oil is much harder to cavitate than thin oil, but thin oil is easier to valve for in a shock absorber. 10W is still very thin, but 2.5w may as almost a magnitude thinner. So 10W requires less pressure than 2.5W to prevent cavitation, even when hot. It also flows through an orifice slower, which is how they tune racing shocks by changing the W number (W does NOT stand for 'weight'. It stands for 'Winter', as in "when cold it has THIS equivalent viscosity") of the oil for certain conditions.
As for hysteresis, I fail to see its' relevance in this discussion. The mechanical parts don't have enough flex to consider it, and the fluid is merely a dampening element to the mechanical movement.
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