1199S neutral switch. Symptoms of failing?

J

Jleosnow

Joined Oct 2016
147 Posts | 19+
Loretto, MN
Hello all,
Just curious what some of the symptoms are of this particular switch failing? I am experiencing a VERY difficult (to almost impossible) task getting it to display “N” on the dash/display. Typically this isn’t/wouldn’t be the end of the world, but it causes me issues if I am doing maintenance up in a stand with the kickstart down and want to have the engine running. It will always bounce on the display between 1st & 2nd even though it is actually in neutral. It’s making the ECU think that the bike is in gear.

Thanks,
-John
 
That sounds more like a gear position sensor problem. There isn't a neutral switch per se.

Is there any slop/freeplay in your shift linkage?

More importantly, what are you doing with the engine running, on a stand, with the kickstand down? Is the problem only there under this very specific circumstance?
 
Great info, thanks for the reply! I did mean to be saying gear position sensor instead of neutral switch. Had a moment there..l. Lol.

And yes, good point. It does it all the time, I shouldn’t have even mentioned anything regarding the kickstand being down. Had another “moment”! SMH.

Thanks,
-John
 
Engine running on a stand, please don't do chain maintenance like that...if that's what you're doing. Its an easy way to loose a finger or thumb.

I don't remember for the xx99 bikes how to get into the gear re-learn procedure, but before you start replacing parts its worth a Google search to figure out how to do a re-learn for the 1199 and try that. With the V4 you need the dealer tool to start it. If its just an indicator problem and not a physical one, ie its actually in neutral but the display says something different, its worth a shot.

The procedure is something like you start in 1st, go to neutral, pull the clutch, go to 2nd pull the clutch etc until you go to 6th and back to 1st.
 
Your symptoms are exactly that of a failing gear position sensor. I personally had no luck with the relearn procedure. I replaced the sensor and since have had no issue. I didn't need to recalibrate or do any relearn for installing the new one. I also noticed that my idle would fluctuate with the bad sensor likely due to different fueling for the different gears vs neutral.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
Engine running on a stand, please don't do chain maintenance like that...if that's what you're doing. Its an easy way to loose a finger or thumb.

I don't remember for the xx99 bikes how to get into the gear re-learn procedure, but before you start replacing parts its worth a Google search to figure out how to do a re-learn for the 1199 and try that. With the V4 you need the dealer tool to start it. If its just an indicator problem and not a physical one, ie its actually in neutral but the display says something different, its worth a shot.

The procedure is something like you start in 1st, go to neutral, pull the clutch, go to 2nd pull the clutch etc until you go to 6th and back to 1st.
Click to expand...
No, just when warming the bike up.

-John
 
airjawed said:
Your symptoms are exactly that of a failing gear position sensor. I personally had no luck with the relearn procedure. I replaced the sensor and since have had no issue. I didn't need to recalibrate or do any relearn for installing the new one. I also noticed that my idle would fluctuate with the bad sensor likely due to different fueling for the different gears vs neutral.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Ordered a new switch.

-John
 
report back, and let us know how it went for you. mine works sometimes and heat makes it worse.

at one time i got it in the relearn procedure, no i cant get it to start, even with melcog

there is a fine line between relearn and replace the sensor. Each have reported success and failure.
 
outhouse said:
report back, and let us know how it went for you. mine works sometimes and heat makes it worse.

at one time i got it in the relearn procedure, no i cant get it to start, even with melcog

there is a fine line between relearn and replace the sensor. Each have reported success and failure.
Click to expand...
Definitely will.

-John
 
The gear relearn procedure found in MelcoDiag V 1.0.6.5 works without issue. I would imagine that the same holds true with any subsequent versions. If a new GPS must be installed, it may (and usually does) take to the bike without the need for any intervention. It's recommended that the sensor be installed/torqued properly. A crowfoot adapter on the end of a torque wrench will do the job. Every fastener on the bike has been assigned a torque specification value... and for a reason. Tighten it too much, or too little, and you can watch the displayed gear change.
 
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Khmer1199 said:
The gear relearn procedure found in MelcoDiag V 1.0.6.5 works without issue. I would imagine that the same holds true with any subsequent versions. If a new GPS must be installed, it may (and usually does) take to the bike without the need for any intervention. It's recommended that the sensor be installed/torqued properly. A crowfoot adapter on the end of a torque wrench will do the job. Every fastener on the bike has been assigned a torque specification value... and for a reason. Tighten it too much, or too little, and you can watch the displayed gear change.
Click to expand...
What you said there got me thinking, so I torqued it to spec(12nm). I then started the bike and watched the display and loosened it slowly until the gauge stabilized at neutral. if I had too guess, I’d say it’s probably at 5nm. Do you still feel that the switch is bad? Very interesting..!!

Thanks,
-John
 
Jleosnow said:
Do you still feel that the switch is bad?
Click to expand...
depends on if you had bike water temp over 185f, you could take it for a ride and see after adjusting hot. Mine works semi good cold, on the hottest day we had this summer, it was off 1.25 gears at times. So heat is probably effecting a bad sensor more than a good one. When my bike was new, it didnt matter if it was hot or cold, it always worked. So i probably should just buy the new sensor.
 
outhouse said:
depends on if you had bike water temp over 185f, you could take it for a ride and see after adjusting hot. Mine works semi good cold, on the hottest day we had this summer, it was off 1.25 gears at times. So heat is probably effecting a bad sensor more than a good one. When my bike was new, it didnt matter if it was hot or cold, it always worked. So i probably should just buy the new sensor.
Click to expand...
I did do a full warm up(on the stand) until the fans kicked in (I believe 212 degrees Fahrenheit). I was not able to road test the bike but the gear position never fluctuated thru the whole warming process.

-John
 
The engine casing needs to get hot in order to test. Just getting the coolant hot may not be sufficient especially if it's cold outside. That's written in the relearn procedure somewhere
 
airjawed said:
The engine casing needs to get hot in order to test. Just getting the coolant hot may not be sufficient especially if it's cold outside. That's written in the relearn procedure somewhere
Click to expand...
I'm guessing that the engine case dud indeed get hot as it idled for at least 15 minutes to get the fans to turn on.

Thanks,
-John
 
Thanks all for the help. I think I’m going to leave it as I stated in the above post and keep the $175.00 sensor:( just in case it starts to leak..

Thanks again!
-John
 
outhouse said:
informe de nuevo y háganos saber cómo le fue. el mío funciona a veces y el calor lo empeora.

en un momento lo obtuve en el procedimiento de reaprendizaje, no, no puedo hacer que comience, incluso con melcog

hay una delgada línea entre volver a aprender y reemplazar el sensor. Cada uno ha informado sobre el éxito y el fracaso.
Click to expand...

YO TUBE ESE PROBLEMA TENDRA QUE CAMBIAR EL SENSOR DE NEUTRO .YO TUBE QUE REPROGRAMAR LAS MARCHAS YA QUE AL PRICIPIO FUNCIONO PERO A LAS DOS SALIDAS CON LA MOTO EMPEZO HACER LO MISMO ME LAS PROGRAMARON Y FUNCIONANDO PERFECTO
 

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