1299 weird problems

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So 90% of the electronics issues with these bikes is a bad battery but since your 13v and firing ok that's not it. CAN bus failing yeah pretty common so anyone of the components BBS, ABS, ECU and Dash if anyone one of them gets a faulty connection then nothing gonna work. Do not disconnect the ECU from the harness unless the battery is disconnected you can possibly brick the ECU. Disconnect the battery unplug all the connectors clean them then replug everything back in see where your at.
 
My bet is a battery. It’s a 5 year old bike and stock batteries are week. In fact, mine is a 2016 and I replaced the battery 2 years ago because it died over a winter storage.
 
The battery has to be tested under a load to determine if its good or not, but no one has asked about that testing nor has the OP posted about the age of the battery. Without any information about regarding same its poor troubleshooting. You have to ask the question before proposing the guess.

If the bike starts fine, that can be a clue.

The V4 models log battery low voltages. I don't know if that's a feature with the xx99 bikes or if the OP can even see that data.

I'll ask the question...How old is the battery?
 
bp_SFV4 said:
The battery has to be tested under a load to determine if its good or not, but no one has asked about that testing nor has the OP posted about the age of the battery. Without any information about regarding same its poor troubleshooting. You have to ask the question before proposing the guess.

If the bike starts fine, that can be a clue.

The V4 models log battery low voltages. I don't know if that's a feature with the xx99 bikes or if the OP can even see that data.

I'll ask the question...How old is the battery?
Click to expand...

This is absolutely true. No doubt I’d rule out the battery and stator well before I tear down the bike looking for bad connections.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
The battery has to be tested under a load to determine if its good or not, but no one has asked about that testing nor has the OP posted about the age of the battery. Without any information about regarding same its poor troubleshooting. You have to ask the question before proposing the guess.
If the bike starts fine, that can be a clue.
The V4 models log battery low voltages. I don't know if that's a feature with the xx99 bikes or if the OP can even see that data.
I'll ask the question...How old is the battery?
Click to expand...

Since I got the bike (like 8-9 months ago), I have not replaced the battery and I've driven it almost nothing because of these problems, just never had the time to get this thing fixed. I don't know if the previous owners replaced it, however, I doubt that, as the bike only has 1500 miles so it wasn't used that much. And this is a 2016 bike btw.
Also I measured the voltage again and its 12.7v but I'll get it load tested anyways just in case.
 
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Get it checked for sure. I thought this was a problem that just crept up, not that it was always doing it.

I think those Yuasa batteries have like a 6 month warranty if you buy one new and a 2016 MY bike would have a batter much older than that.

If you are going to end up replacing it go with a lithium ion for sure.
 
Check the voltage while running as well. You may be dealing with over voltage as well. Bad rectifier?
 
Get a Li specific charger/conditioner (like CTEK) and wire the tender leads to the terminals when you change the battery and you'll keep it in optimal condition and make your battery last considerably longer too. A good charger/conditioner will pay for itself within a couple of years.
 
Sooner or later you will need a battery. It’s not a bad investment at this point, and you can eliminate it as a source of your problems.
 
I got the battery load tested and, as I thought considering that the bike turns on immediately, it's in perfect conditions. Battery is not the cause of the problems so really no need to replace it.
Honestly I think the battery has nothing to do with the acceleration cuts, sputtering, and the weird behavior of the bike. From all the chugging it does, it's as if maybe it starts running on only one cylinder?? I have no clue tho why it would be doing that only after 20 minutes of riding.
 
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You don’t have that much to work with. ECU BBS, 2 MAP sensors, 1 air sensor, 2 coils, 2 plug wires, 2 plugs and an interface network (wiring harness) start checking components. Process of elimination will pinpoint your problem. Battery, plugs, coils, MAPs are all very easy to test. Worse case scenario and most difficult to test is an intermittent electrical connection.
 
endodoc said:
You don’t have that much to work with. ECU BBS, 2 MAP sensors, 1 air sensor, 2 coils, 2 plug wires, 2 plugs and an interface network (wiring harness) start checking components. Process of elimination will pinpoint your problem. Battery, plugs, coils, MAPs are all very easy to test. Worse case scenario and most difficult to test is an intermittent electrical connection.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the summary of the various things that could be, that's what I was looking for. I have no clue how the electronics work. Can you please go into more details on how I can test these components? And what do you mean by interface network? Like a cut off wire or something like that?
 
alee said:
Thanks for the summary of the various things that could be, that's what I was looking for. I have no clue how the electronics work. Can you please go into more details on how I can test these components? And what do you mean by interface network? Like a cut off wire or something like that?
Click to expand...
If you don’t know how electronics work and you have no hands on experience, I would highly suggest to look for help from someone with knowledge on that matter. Now I also encourage you to try but first you need to get service manual where all info is (like wire color, connector pin numbers, electrical values like voltages, resistance / continuity (ohms) etc).
Second thing is to get good quality multimeter which is essential tool for job like this!
 

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