1299s Won't Turn Over (after lowside)

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RubberSideDown

Joined
Jun 9, 2016
Messages
74
Location
Ashburn VA
See previous thread in Racing here.

tl;dr: I had a decent speed lowside that resulted in the right clipon, brake master, and throttle breaking off. after crash, bike's engine was off, but the fans/electronics were still running.

The clutch cover took some serious scraping, the magnesium fairing upper cracked, and most of the plastics on the right are toast.

BUT... I have the replacement parts in place now (sans plastics). All the electronics claim to be happy (no errors on the screen, etc), but when I push the starter, nothing happens. Not even a click.

- Replaced throttle & wiring
- Replaced starter & wiring
- Replaced right clip-on
- Replaced brake master & wiring
- Checked all fuses (on the left side)
- Tried different gears, neutral, and with clutch engaged

What am I not doing?

One thing I noticed when pushing it around the garage today: the bike rolls as expected in neutral, but it's much harder to push when in gear with the clutch engaged. I think that's a clue... maybe I damaged something internally?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
RubberSideDown said:
See previous thread in Racing here.

tl;dr: I had a decent speed lowside that resulted in the right clipon, brake master, and throttle breaking off. after crash, bike's engine was off, but the fans/electronics were still running.

The clutch cover took some serious scraping, the magnesium fairing upper cracked, and most of the plastics on the right are toast.

BUT... I have the replacement parts in place now (sans plastics). All the electronics claim to be happy (no errors on the screen, etc), but when I push the starter, nothing happens. Not even a click.

- Replaced throttle & wiring
- Replaced starter & wiring
- Replaced right clip-on
- Replaced brake master & wiring
- Checked all fuses (on the left side)
- Tried different gears, neutral, and with clutch engaged

What am I not doing?

One thing I noticed when pushing it around the garage today: the bike rolls as expected in neutral, but it's much harder to push when in gear with the clutch engaged. I think that's a clue... maybe I damaged something internally?

Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

Couple of suggestions. This after experience with lowsiding myself on the brake side.

1. Make sure that your bike is recognizing neutral.
2.Make sure your clutch switch is working.
3.Make sure your on off switch is working properly. Sometime in the housing
the stop button is jammed or the connection for on off is not connecting within the housing.
 
I think every bike is harder to push in gear with the clutch engaged as opposed to pushing it in neutral .

I'm guessing you did not replace the starter , but the switch on the right handle bar that has a start button on it .

I'm not a mechanic but could it be a ecu or tps issue? ecu is on the right side. also there are some complicated electronics involving the immobilizer, the traction control , the slide control , the abs , etc etc. just adding something to think about
 
Thanks for the responses.

@Blade Runner, the dash recognizes neutral, and I've tried starting it while in neutral, so I don't think it's the clutch switch (but I'll triple check). I replaced the on/off switch, but will confirm that it's not defective.

@Macattack, I didn't replace the actual starter. Unless I've lost it, it's on the left side, so I'm running on a (poor) assumption that it wasn't damaged in the drop. I intend on putting a voltmeter to it, to ensure it's getting electricity. My main concern is all the electronic goodies like you mentioned that may have taken some impact.

Any suggestions are appreciated. I'll report back once I make time to test these things. Hopefully we'll find it & it will be useful info for someone in the future.
 
Thanks for everyone's help (in other threads too).

Bike cranks now, but still won't start. Here's where I'm at:

Removed the following:
- All Plastics
- Exhaust Silencer
- Complete Radiator System
- Tank

Things I've verified:
- Nothing blocking the intake (air)
- Both spark plugs spark (electricity)
- Fuel pump sounds like it's working when you turn the key (fuel)

What else should I be checking? When cranking, there is a very throaty noise that I don't recall hearing in the past.

Thanks in advance
 
Sounds like it’s a fuel issue. I would take the fuel hose off where it feeds the injectors, crank it over and see if indeed any fuel comes out. Or take it to Duck Pond over in Winchester. They sell and race Ducati’s so they have insight.
 
DCPanni said:
Sounds like it's a fuel issue. I would take the fuel hose off where it feeds the injectors, crank it over and see if indeed any fuel comes out. Or take it to Duck Pond over in Winchester. They sell and race Ducati's so they have insight.
Click to expand...

Thank you; I'll try that tomorrow and most likely give Duck Pond a call if that's not it.

I was thinking maybe it could be a timing issue, but getting the whole motor apart to check timing seems... extreme?
 
If you have fuel and spark, then perhaps the crank position sensor. Or the tip over sensor is dislodged or not working. I would call Duck Pond. They have been racing and crashing Ducatis many years. You may need to see if any codes are stored or any error messages are in the cpu.
 
Not sure on the 1299 but the 1199 doesn't have a tip over sensor, a video on youtube after crash the bike is redlining.

Did you check starter relay/solenoid.

[youtube]YS9KYdxIz8g[/youtube]
 
The fly-by-wire throttle completely broke off on mine, which I believe forced the engine to shut off.

Here's another question: to test the fuel pump, I thought I would hook up the tank's electrical, put a cup under the white gas line out, and try to crank the engine. The spark plugs are disconnected.

I was expecting to see some gas squirting into the cup, but that didn't happen. Could it be that the white connector must be connected to something as well, or is this likely the culprit?

And yes, I need to call Duc Pond...

PS - this sucks, but thanks for all the support.
 
Sounds like your fuel pump isn't working. It should also spray fuel just by turning the ignition on, without cranking it over.
 
Sweet... finally something easy to replace.

The bike is still in a bajillion pieces if anyone needs photos or details on anything.
 
Did you have the bike side of the quick connect hooked up to the tank when you tried this? It shouldn't let anything out if you just have the half on the gas tank by itself.
 
AaronJ said:
Did you have the bike side of the quick connect hooked up to the tank when you tried this? It shouldn't let anything out if you just have the half on the gas tank by itself.
Click to expand...

...yeah, I screwed that up. I was thinking that the quick-connect wouldn't prevent it from pushing fuel out, but I suppose that makes more sense.

Any tips on the best way to test it?
 
I couldn't tell you for sure. I'm going to start tearing mine down next weekend as it had a bad crash as well. What I would do is cut the hose off the bike side right at the nipple of the QC. Then carefully cut the metal band off (I think those have a permanent band IIRC) if you want too reuse the fitting. I know I'm going to get one of the aluminum quick connects when I get everything headed towards putting it back together, I've had very good luck with the motion-pro's not leaking vs. the plastic ones but this was all in the dirt. Any way stick a length of hose on your newly exposed nipple and put into a bucket, snap it back into the tank. From there on, I'm not sure if it will siphon out or just be fine till the pump turns on. A hemostat would be handy to pinch the hose if it does leak run out when the QC's are mated. Another thing you might want to check out is if Ducati supplies any numbers as far as what the minimum volume of fuel is pumped over a given time. Or perhaps the system has to have a certain back PSI on it. Again, I'm just tossing ideas out there. Good luck with the task! Let me know if you come up with any thing.
 
You can just buy the fitting complete and use half of that instead of cutting lines.
They arent expensive.

What may help is listening to the pump. Does it run up then cut out, or does it stay running.
I had a similar starting issue maybe 6 months ago, and the pump kept running, which
indicated it wasnt coming up to pressure. For me, the solution was to change the pump.
One of the guys also mentioned that when he had this symptom, the pump was good, but
the internal line in the tank had fractured, so instead of pressurising, it was just spilling
back to the suction side.
 
throttle

Considering you had damaged the throttle grip.. it may be the issue.

Here is why I think that to be the case..

- my bike was on the trailer with canyon dancers on it and tied down.
- i tried to start the bike to warm it up but it would crank but not start
- i loosened the tie down and thereby loosening the grip on the throttle..the bike started

I think if your throttle is "engaged" even slightly it won't let the bike start.

good luck.
 
DukeAti said:
Considering you had damaged the throttle grip.. it may be the issue.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip - I replaced the entire throttle assembly (though it was with a used ebay unit, but it looked new).

I have the replacement tubing coming today so I can put a rest to "is it the fuel pump" - if it's not the fuel pump, I'll monkey with the throttle. It would be pretty infuriating if I did all this work only for it to have been that one wire + a bad replacement part... (but at least the bike would be running again!)
 

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