41T rear sprocket for 1299 S

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Just to close this out from my original question - I had the 41T rear sprocket done and whilst its not a 'night and day' difference, there's definitely a difference and in my view the bike is much improved for slow manoeuvring and tight bends. I'm not having to slip the clutch in 1st or decide between 1st and 2nd gear on some of the tight corners near where I live.

For c. £160, I think pound for pound its the best mod I've done on the bike.

Thanks all for the comments.
 
Just to close this out from my original question - I had the 41T rear sprocket done and whilst its not a 'night and day' difference, there's definitely a difference and in my view the bike is much improved for slow manoeuvring and tight bends. I'm not having to slip the clutch in 1st or decide between 1st and 2nd gear on some of the tight corners near where I live.

For c. £160, I think pound for pound its the best mod I've done on the bike.

Thanks all for the comments.

Hu8742 did it shorten up first and second a lot? Make it so you have to quickly shift through these gears? I was looking into doing this when I got my bike in but I just dropped one tooth on the front of my super Duke and it was way too much for me. First was useless and second wasn't much better. It was a drastic change for sure. I could have used half of what it did. I'm actually going back to the stock 17T front and will go up one in the rear even know that's not a huge change I think the v twin reactions is more drastic than my in line fours....
 
It wont have the same effect as those changes did on the SD. The bikes like that (purpose built for the street) have much shorter gearing in general (interally, externally, and because of the way the cams etc are designed). They are built/geared for low/mid-range performance...they aren't geared to go 190mph like Sportbikes.

So making a gearing change like that on a bike like the SD will make a huge difference, and make it aggravating to ride.

Sportbikes (especially Liter bikes) have a notoriously tall 1st gear (so you can use 1st gear in slower corners on the track). It is worse on some bikes that others. Like on the RS4 and ZX10, it is almost impossible to get away from a red light without massive clutch slippage because they are geared so tall.

But bikes like the Superduke, Speed Triple, etc...they aren't geared the way sportbikes are. Going much shorter with the gearing on them makes 1st almost useless.
 
It wont have the same effect as those changes did on the SD. The bikes like that (purpose built for the street) have much shorter gearing in general (interally, externally, and because of the way the cams etc are designed). They are built/geared for low/mid-range performance...they aren't geared to go 190mph like Sportbikes.

So making a gearing change like that on a bike like the SD will make a huge difference, and make it aggravating to ride.

Sportbikes (especially Liter bikes) have a notoriously tall 1st gear (so you can use 1st gear in slower corners on the track). It is worse on some bikes that others. Like on the RS4 and ZX10, it is almost impossible to get away from a red light without massive clutch slippage because they are geared so tall.

But bikes like the Superduke, Speed Triple, etc...they aren't geared the way sportbikes are. Going much shorter with the gearing on them makes 1st almost useless.

Thanks Chaotic! That make more sense to me. I never gave it any thought. On my ZX10R I went -1 front and +2 in the rear and it didn't make as much difference as going -1 on the Duke. I just changed the Duke back yesterday and I think she's going to stay that way unless I just try +1 in the rear to see what she will do. But as for my 1299 I'll try her first.......
 
Somefun - doesn't shorten up 1st and 2nd loads, but it is certainly noticeable. Particularly pulling out of my drive and going slowing around my street where I used to have to slip the clutch. There were also some bends (on roads) where I was never quite sure whether to use 1st or 2nd. Now 2nd is very manageable. I have also noticed the front wheel is a little keener to lift in all gears (which I'm cool with).

Got the 41T sprocket & chain from the Pani R. Dealer said it was cheaper to get the whole lot from there. Didn't want to argue with him because its not like it cost that much in the grand scheme of things.
 
Somefun - doesn't shorten up 1st and 2nd loads, but it is certainly noticeable. Particularly pulling out of my drive and going slowing around my street where I used to have to slip the clutch. There were also some bends (on roads) where I was never quite sure whether to use 1st or 2nd. Now 2nd is very manageable. I have also noticed the front wheel is a little keener to lift in all gears (which I'm cool with).

Got the 41T sprocket & chain from the Pani R. Dealer said it was cheaper to get the whole lot from there. Didn't want to argue with him because its not like it cost that much in the grand scheme of things.

Awesome! thanks HU! I'm going to order the 41T rear gear.... Don't know when the bike is coming in but at least I can look forward to some small gifts coming in to help with the wait.....:)
 
Yep, being able to drive out of the corner and head down the straightaway quicker is very valuable on the track.
 
Well I'm still waiting on my new girl to come in but I wound up buying the 41 rear anyways....I was checking the gear out and couldn't believe how heavy it is? I'm thinking a alloy rear gear and hub would be a huge weight savings.......
 
I went with the Supersprox unit Alloy carrier with Steel sprocket... Black sprocket Black and Gold hub with Black and gold DID Chain..

a 41 tooth makes a BIG difference in low end pull..

Speedy
 
Speedy what is the weight difference between your set up and the stock set up? I would think it must save 3 or 4 pounds?
 
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Speedy what is the weight difference between your set up and the stock set up? I would think it must save 3 or 4 pounds?

Search my threads. I did a big post about fitting a 14 520 to an 1199. I would recommend riding your bike OEM first before paying out the dollars in case you find the gearing fine.

You are going to lose top end, all the way thru the rev range. I noticed the difference on some really fast open sweepers where I kept looking for the next gear but I was already in 6th. It was better for me in traffic but the 39 was better on the open road. My 2 cents.

Weight wise I think I save about 2kg but that counted Ti nuts etc. If I remember I will look up my spreadsheet to see the weight savings.
 
Speedy what is the weight difference between your set up and the stock set up? I would think it must save 3 or 4 pounds?

Not sure but you could not tell the difference just riding on the street...probably not the track either unless you are a pro... At least I cannot


For the street I thin just one tooth up in the back would have been enough and it would be running out of gear so quick..
 

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