Chain and sprockets

spooky said:
It’s not really addressing my questions but the OEM chain had stretched significantly, was previously adjusted and needs adjusting again. It’s done 1,200km on road and 12 days on track and I want to change it.
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Chains stretch frequently during the first 1000 odd km based on usage and then slow down. Your chain is just broken in. Chains on all my liter bikes have lasted 20,000+ miles with regular lube and maintenence. Unless you just want to throw money replacing a perfectly new chain, 0 benefits from this mod.
 
djducatista said:
Chains stretch frequently during the first 1000 odd km based on usage and then slow down. Your chain is just broken in. Chains on all my liter bikes have lasted 20,000+ miles with regular lube and maintenence. Unless you just want to throw money replacing a perfectly new chain, 0 benefits from this mod.
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You have a 520 chain? Those 20,000+ miles have been on track?

Rregardless, I expect my chain is fine for a while yet. That doesn’t mean I can’t discuss and purchase replacement parts to use either when I feel that I need to or just because I want to.

There are technical benefits to lighter parts though, so it’s incorrect to say there are zero benefits (the topic is ‘chain and sprockets’ - not just ‘chain’).
 
SuperDomestique said:
Installed the 1-piece SITTA 42t rear sprocket this evening on the bike and not too bad of a job. Hardest part is getting the 230 Nm nut off. Took a good 30 sec of impact wrench to get that nut off (usually I last longer, promise). Will probably replace the cush pins in another 4k or when either the chain/sprocket wears beyond spec. The weight savings is not as much as you’d think. Maybe a pound or so. Like @SBK-SP said, 15-42 gets you to very close to stock on the eccentric.

One notable observation was that the SITTA sprocket is 0.5 mm narrower than the stock sprocket. Confirmed at least by packaging and stamping that it is 525. Will keep an eye out for wear.

Also, with alu sprockets the key thing will be keeping it clean to prolong life. Grit will chew it up quick.
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Looks nice - OEM sprocket carrier?

Are you comparing the weight to the OEM sprocket? The 520 Sitta should be about 700g lighter than the OEM SP2 520 sprocket, which is quite a lot, and further weight savings can be had with the chain (about 400g lighter than OEM) and the flange (not so much of a weight saving available). Measurements courtesy of the Motomillion video on chain and sprockets for their SP2.

So just the chain and sprocket would save about 1kg of rotating mass, which I think is quite significant.

Regarding the nut, at a track day there was a guy who owned a Ducati dealership - he had a wrench with a multiplier fitted and he hardly had to put any effort into removing and installing the nut. I should have asked him exactly what it was as it made the job look easy.
 
SuperDomestique said:
It’s Ducati Corse derived 😉

The weight savings is inconsequential in the grand scheme of things. But definitely worth it for the proper gearing.
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I'll disagree regarding weight being saved from rotating mass being inconsequential. I thought saving weight from unsprung mass and from rotating mass on vehicles was generally accepted as being worthwhile.

Not sure what you mean by the 'Ducati Corse derived' comment. I simply asked if it was the OEM one. I assume it is.
 
spooky said:
I'll disagree regarding weight being saved from rotating mass being inconsequential. I thought saving weight from unsprung mass and from rotating mass on vehicles was generally accepted as being worthwhile.

Not sure what you mean by the 'Ducati Corse derived' comment. I simply asked if it was the OEM one. I assume it is.
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The further away from the axis or rotation the greater effect it will have. Saving a hundred grams close to the axle will have less effect than saving 100 grams at the rim.

Even 100 grams at the rim you probably aren’t going to notice.
 
burton said:
The further away from the axis or rotation the greater effect it will have. Saving a hundred grams close to the axle will have less effect than saving 100 grams at the rim.

Even 100 grams at the rim you probably aren’t going to notice.
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Obviously, but there’s nonetheless a technical benefit.

It was always the first thing I did with cars, and it was always noticeable. Those spin slower as well.
 
spooky said:
Likewise. 👍

I’m surprised you chose an aluminium sprocket though. Steel would have lasted longer. Odd.
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There weren’t any steel sprockets available in 42t. I’ve ran Supersprox before and would’ve loved to run another on this bike but none were in stock. I also read on here that members were getting 4k+ mi on a Sitta sprocket so I thought I’d give it a shot.

Technically, it’s lighter but qualitatively you won’t feel that. Again, my argument is that if you‘re changing gearing go for it. If you’re changing for weight, it’s not worth it. Save your time and money. If you think you stock drivetrain is worn out after a year of riding then moving to lighter, more wear-prone parts is an even dumber move. Learn how to adjust your chain and maintain your equipment before you buy new stuff.

With that, the move to 15-42t gearing is great for both street and I‘m looking fwd to trying it on track. Bike is easier to ride at normal speeds and getting away from stops.
 
burton said:
The further away from the axis or rotation the greater effect it will have. Saving a hundred grams close to the axle will have less effect than saving 100 grams at the rim.

Even 100 grams at the rim you probably aren’t going to notice.
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That’s why I choose the Thysenkrup wheels over the ubiquitous BST CF wheels that everybody was getting at the time. The Thysenkrup are only a few ounces lighter, but because of there giant loom and the way they braid the CF the barrel of the wheel is much lighter and stronger than the barrel on the BST’s, moving more weight proportionally toward the hub, so while the over all weight is only an ounce or two different, where the weight is located is significantly different.
 
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SuperDomestique said:
There weren’t any steel sprockets available in 42t. I’ve ran Supersprox before and would’ve loved to run another on this bike but none were in stock. I also read on here that members were getting 4k+ mi on a Sitta sprocket so I thought I’d give it a shot.

Technically, it’s lighter but qualitatively you won’t feel that. Again, my argument is that if you‘re changing gearing go for it. If you’re changing for weight, it’s not worth it. Save your time and money. If you think you stock drivetrain is worn out after a year of riding then moving to lighter, more wear-prone parts is an even dumber move. Learn how to adjust your chain and maintain your equipment before you buy new stuff.

With that, the move to 15-42t gearing is great for both street and I‘m looking fwd to trying it on track. Bike is easier to ride at normal speeds and getting away from stops.
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It’s really very simple. When I change chain and sprockets they’ll be lighter. If I want to change them before it’s strictly necessary to do so then so what? I’m not quite sure why you seem to have such a problem with it (or with others doing things to their bikes). If you think the difference isn’t worth it then good for you.

A bit less rudeness wouldn’t go amiss.
 
spooky said:
It’s really very simple. When I change chain and sprockets they’ll be lighter. If I want to change them before it’s strictly necessary to do so then so what? I’m not quite sure why you seem to have such a problem with it (or with others doing things to their bikes). If you think the difference isn’t worth it then good for you.

A bit less rudeness wouldn’t go amiss.
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You ask for advice. We give you advice. You do what you want and don’t take the advice. What was the point of the post? Classic Dunning Kruger
 
Yes, that’s exactly what happened… :rolleyes:

Your advice was that there’s no need to change from a 525 setup on my SP2… :oops: Genius. You then seem to spend most of your time answering questions that were not asked and doing your best to be snarky and rude. Maybe there’s something not right with your home life or something that makes you want to be like this on a forum.

Dunning-Kruger effect? I see you decided to double-down on rudeness in response to my suggestion that you try a bit less of it.

Give it a rest buddy. It’s getting a bit boring.
 
If only discussions could remain objective and depersonalized... 🤔 imagine if posts were like clouds of thought, interactively copulating, collectively coalescing to form a precipitation of information that would fall and bear fruit...

...Would be Latte's for all

One can wish 😔
 
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spooky said:
I’m looking at changing the chain and sprockets on my SP2 and I’ve settled on the Sitta sprockets (16/41 - standard gearing - steel front and aluminium rear) and DID ERV7 chain (I believe 114 links is correct).

I have no intention of changing gearing from standard and so presumed the normal sprocket (206D SITTA ERGAL REAR SPROCKET DUCATI PANIGALE V4 S 2018-2022) rather than quick-change setup is better to go for.

Are there any reasons for choosing their quick-change setup over the normal setup? I guess it’s then a bit cheaper to renew the sprocket in future but I’d also guess it’s marginally heavier and there are more failure points?

Are there any options you’d consider other than Sitta and DID? I’m not concerned about value for money - I just want the best option (track day use only).

Is it worth changing to the Sitta (or other) flange or is the OEM one perfectly ok?

I presume I can use the existing bolts. Is there anything else that should be replaced when doing this?
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The best stuff is AFAM chain (not DID)
And CNC for sprockets and quick change setup.
I believe CNC is lighter than SITTA.

Quick change is essential when at track, saves a lot of time..
 

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