Chain and sprockets

spooky · Sep 30, 2023

andyb said:
IMHO regarding the gear ratios of course you can just ride around on a std bike and probably enjoy, but you kinda want to take advantage of the best bits of the bike at the circuit you are at, so in theory...

Approaching my braking point or the place I run out of balls, for the SF straight at BRNO I can see 170mph 6th gear but around 11750 rpm, so I need to try harder and carry more speed on to the straight or perhaps I can lower the gearing one more tooth to just be pinging the rev limiter at the point I brake...although of course it is all a compromise and the 2nd 3rd and 4th gears work well for a lot of the other sections of the track ....

About 10mph faster than I was doing at the same part of the track in 5th on standard gearing - never used 6th. Speed was from the DDA but I think that shows the same speed as the display and it isn’t a GPS speed. I was still short-shifting a bit into 4th and certainly into 5th.

Overtaking into turn 1 is fun. Going down into 2nd felt better turning in but I kept finding myself not getting onto maintenance throttle soon enough and scrubbing off too much speed and I was carrying more speed on exit using 3rd. I guess 3rd would work better through turn 1 with more teeth on the rear sprocket, if I’m starting to understand it correctly?

spooky · Sep 30, 2023

Alkhater said:
It is a neat looking product.

The sprocket fasteners do look secure although in typical Italian fashion came with no instructions, so I’m not sure if they require some blue loctite.

Fitment issue was reported by @KarlKani. His carrier assembly would protrude too far so that the retaining clip could not be installed.

The Cush drives are secured by a lip in the back of the carrier.

What kind of issues have you read about?

I saw a thread talking about having to machine the spacer to get things lined up correctly when mixing brands. If the issue reported by @KarlKani was using the Sitta carrier and flange then that would be a bit more concerning. I’ll be interested to see if you have the same issue or if fitment is fine. When are you planning on fitting it?

The German thread I was referring to was a bit out there in terms of trying different things - they were mixing and matching the Ghost flange with the Sitta carrier and then going off the deep end trying to make their own cush drives… which were then falling through the carrier…

SuperDomestique · Oct 2, 2023

Anyone run 15/42 on a 22+ V4 on track? Overly torque-y or manageable? @RickD996 or @KarlKani have any thoughts?

stgatev · Oct 2, 2023

In searching for a sprocket for my V2, I came upon Supersprox. Aluminum center and a steel crown, connected with rivets instead of bolts. Does anyone have experience with them?

SuperDomestique · Oct 2, 2023

I’ve used them before on my old bikes. Solid.

bp_SFV4 · Oct 2, 2023

I used one on my 1199 with a 520. No complaints, but in hindsight I could have bought two track days for what the setup cost. Today I'd pick the track days.

andyb · Oct 3, 2023

SuperDomestique said:
Anyone run 15/42 on a 22+ V4 on track? Overly torque-y or manageable? @RickD996 or @KarlKani have any thoughts?

for me it would make it a bit too buzzy...and not utilise the strengths of the 1100 engine.......where as on a 1000 that may be where the power is......

(appreciate this is 2019 but demonstrates where the different engines powers is to be found)

RickD996 · Oct 3, 2023

SuperDomestique said:
Anyone run 15/42 on a 22+ V4 on track? Overly torque-y or manageable? @RickD996 or @KarlKani have any thoughts?

Give it a shot. Think I'm running 15/43 atm. But, it depends on the circuit. I use 15/44 at Brands Hatch.

I try to gear my bike to use second to sixth, rather than first to fifth. Just avoids getting neutral by accident.

baggerman · Oct 3, 2023

Run 17/36 and use first to fourth. On what track anywhere is the slowest corner under 40 mph? Calms the motor down, less DTC DWC etc intervention. Slower in a drag race OK but who cares it's about carrying corner speed. Don't need to shift as much. First is good to about 100.

Paul G · Oct 3, 2023

All I know is that the 22 V4 is incredibly tractable with a linear power delivery that makes all the gears very usable so unless you have a special need just go stock, on the xx99's you really needed to change the ratio but its not needed on the later 4's for normal use.

SuperDomestique · Oct 5, 2023

Just got to fitting at 15t front sprocket on my 22 PV4S and man what a difference. Shifting seems improved and so much easier to get going. Will see how it gets on at the track this weekend. Recalibrated tyre calibration and so far no warning lights. Bike is basically stock (no tune).

andyb · Oct 5, 2023

what did your ride height do go up or go down?

SuperDomestique · Oct 5, 2023

andyb said:
what did your ride height do go up or go down?

The eccentric moved clockwise about 2 cm so I’d assume ride height decreased by 5-10 mm (hub moved upwards). I can’t tell the difference. Seems to handle like normal but only at street speeds.

SBK-SP · Oct 5, 2023

SuperDomestique said:
The eccentric moved clockwise about 2 cm so I’d assume ride height decreased by 5-10 mm (hub moved upwards). I can’t tell the difference. Seems to handle like normal but only at street speeds.

Remember the older 1198< series bikes put the axle at the bottom of the eccentric where the newer V4 bikes put the axle at the top of the eccentric. 2 cm likely puts the axle at or just past the actual center, so it may raise the rear of the bike.

andyb · Oct 5, 2023

if only there was a ride height tool available and an easy way to keep the ride height adjusted constant...

SuperDomestique · Oct 5, 2023

SBK-SP said:
Remember the older 1198< series bikes put the axle at the bottom of the eccentric where the newer V4 bikes put the axle at the top of the eccentric. 2 cm likely puts the axle at or just past the actual center, so it may raise the rear of the bike.

Gotcha. I was under the impression that the hub started at the 9 o’clock position not 12. But it sounds like the V4 starts at 12 and should rotate to the 3 o’clock position to tighten. Makes sense.

Alkhater · Oct 5, 2023

andyb said:
if only there was a ride height tool available and an easy way to keep the ride height adjusted constant...

Most people aren’t able to justify the price tag I imagine.

I might make one out of cardboard

SuperDomestique · Oct 5, 2023

andyb said:
if only there was a ride height tool available and an easy way to keep the ride height adjusted constant...

Meh. I like to use feeling. If you want to adjust your ride height, just use some washers

andyb · Oct 5, 2023

SuperDomestique said:
Gotcha. I was under the impression that the hub started at the 9 o’clock position not 12. But it sounds like the V4 starts at 12 and should rotate to the 3 o’clock position to tighten. Makes sense.

std chain length /std sprockets puts the spindle at around 0930..... and goes arc of adjustment around to just before 0300. As your chain wears or you for example put a smaller sprocket on this has the effect on the ride height of it going down before returning back up.

Of course if you don't know to begin with and you don't know after changing then...

pissing in the wind.

andyb · Oct 5, 2023

SuperDomestique said:
Meh. I like to use feeling. If you want to adjust your ride height, just use some washers

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