Chain and sprockets

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airjawed said:
Speaking of rotating mass, what tires are you using? Reducing mass at the point furthest from the center of axle (tires) does have a significant effect. Stock tires weigh more than slicks or track day tires. Less rubber/ life but you should feel performance gains if you are at pace.
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Pirelli Supercorsa SC3. I’m not at pace yet. ;)
 
Steven31371 said:
I use the SUPERLIGHT sprocket setups, as the name implies they are light, but also super easy to change gearing with those.

Generally run a 15/41 setup and find that’s the happy place for most of the tracks in SoCal
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Those do not seem to be readily available in Europe. I could get them as I know someone in the US who will be flying a new plane from the US to here shortly and nobody seems to worry about import declarations on private jets. 🤣 Getting more sprockets in the future would potentially be a problem though so my options seem to be AEM or Sitta (possibly CNC Racing but I prefer the look of the SItta and AEM).
 
Steven31371 said:
Quick Change for the win, along with the Woodcraft Risers that allow you to remove the risers without removing the triple tree the quickchange sprocket setups are something you don’t need, until you do, then you are soooo glad they are there
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The overwhelming response is to use QC by the look of it.
 
andyb said:
At Brno we had 3 x 22 base bikes and compared numbers and differences . That was a great real time exercise in getting towards a set of numbers that felt good but also what felt bad or wrong across 3 different riders, styles and ability levels.
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What gearing did you end up using at Brno?
 
I'd seen that online but hadn't realised quite how light it is.

What would be the negatives to having no cush drive (or the positives)? I'd guess having no cush drive would make initial pickup from the throttle a bit more aggressive on the tyre's grip? Perhaps more wear to mechanical components?
 
spooky said:
I'd seen that online but hadn't realised quite how light it is.

What would be the negatives to having no cush drive (or the positives)? I'd guess having no cush drive would make initial pickup from the throttle a bit more aggressive on the tyre's grip? Perhaps more wear to mechanical components?
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I imagine it’s to mitigate driveline shock during shifting gears, maybe a marginal difference to initial drive from throttle application.

Apparently they’re a requirement for 600cc + bikes to reduce driveline wear and tear.

Interesting…
 
Alkhater said:
I imagine it’s to mitigate driveline shock during shifting gears, maybe a marginal difference to initial drive from throttle application.

Apparently they’re a requirement for 600cc + bikes to reduce driveline wear and tear.

Interesting…
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Sounds about right. I assumed there would be mechanical reasons. I'm inclined to want a cush drive...
 
Does dropping down to a 15t front or going up to a 42t rear sprocket necessitate altering the chain length? Basically could one still run the OEM chain length when choosing ONE of those options?
 
SuperDomestique said:
Does dropping down to a 15t front or going up to a 42t rear sprocket necessitate altering the chain length? Basically could one still run the OEM chain length when choosing ONE of those options?
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Neither will require a chain length change, but will require some slack adjustment. I’ve done both and they tend to cancel each other such that the adjustment required is only a couple mm rotation of the hub.
 

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