Chain and sprockets
- Thread starter spooky
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Those do not seem to be readily available in Europe. I could get them as I know someone in the US who will be flying a new plane from the US to here shortly and nobody seems to worry about import declarations on private jets.
Getting more sprockets in the future would potentially be a problem though so my options seem to be AEM or Sitta (possibly CNC Racing but I prefer the look of the SItta and AEM).The overwhelming response is to use QC by the look of it.
What gearing did you end up using at Brno?
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Speaking of light weight sprockets… this just popped up in my mail DUCATI LIGHT WEIGHT SPROCKET CARRIER AND SPROCKETS — V4evo
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Everything I’ve ever gotten from v4Evo has been made very well
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Impressive but no cush drive would be brutal
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I’ve thought of this too but also other bikes don’t use Cush drives
I'd seen that online but hadn't realised quite how light it is.
What would be the negatives to having no cush drive (or the positives)? I'd guess having no cush drive would make initial pickup from the throttle a bit more aggressive on the tyre's grip? Perhaps more wear to mechanical components?
What would be the negatives to having no cush drive (or the positives)? I'd guess having no cush drive would make initial pickup from the throttle a bit more aggressive on the tyre's grip? Perhaps more wear to mechanical components?
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Correction… I didn’t notice them before but other super bikes use Cush drives as well or some sort of damping mechanism. RSV4, R 1, S1000RR are examples.
Further investigation needed.
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I imagine it’s to mitigate driveline shock during shifting gears, maybe a marginal difference to initial drive from throttle application.
Apparently they’re a requirement for 600cc + bikes to reduce driveline wear and tear.
Interesting…
Sounds about right. I assumed there would be mechanical reasons. I'm inclined to want a cush drive...
I guess this part is like the AEM Ghost flange where the Cush drives bolt directly into the flange rather than being secured by nuts.
www.wrs.it
Quite cool, although I guess there’s an advantage to marking a nut and being able to easily tell if it’s backed out a bit.
226D03 SITTA WSBK REAR SPROCKET HUB REPLACEMENT HARD OXIDE DUCATI PANIGALE V4 / R
226D03 SITTA WSBK REAR SPROCKET HUB REPLACEMENT HARD OXIDE DUCATI PANIGALE V4 / R
Quite cool, although I guess there’s an advantage to marking a nut and being able to easily tell if it’s backed out a bit.
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Does dropping down to a 15t front or going up to a 42t rear sprocket necessitate altering the chain length? Basically could one still run the OEM chain length when choosing ONE of those options?
My mistake. Apparently they look like this on the back:
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Neither will require a chain length change, but will require some slack adjustment. I’ve done both and they tend to cancel each other such that the adjustment required is only a couple mm rotation of the hub.
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I have a cush drive on my latte every morning. One titanium bolt holds it. No QC needed...
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For the canyons?
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