Chain and sprockets

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SuperDomestique said:
And here’s the final drive ratios that the bike will adapt to. And then you’ll have to either have Deussen or your dealer reset the drivetrain “adaptives” or you’ll run into QS/electronics problems

View attachment 51505
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I find it interesting that the approved ratio's, the ones shown above and the ones for the SF are different. So you can run a higher gear set on the panigales and still get the shifter to downshift.
 
andyb said:
on a worn sprocket the teeth tend to go hook shaped.....didnt think yours had

so if you add an extra couple of links you can just use the same chain but in a different part of the adjustment FWIW chains generally come in 120 links and you cut it down to what you require..

once proficient it doesn't take 10 mins to slacken the chain, swap the sprocket and readjust the chain. its not like you would be doing it every session. fit the QR with the std size rear sprocket when you are ready get a different size try it...
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Thanks. I’ve no idea what a worn sprocket looks like so I thought it best to ask and I assumed a steel sprocket would be fine after the amount of use it’s had.

The mechanism for changing the sprocket on the Sitta QC carrier is a bit different from most. I’ll give it some further thought and decide which way to go.

Thanks for all the help and info - much appreciated. 👍
 
renthal and the AEM ones are simple nuts to undo. the Sitta one is a Gucci quicker change but not really required.. obviously the sprockets only really fit their own design so you are committed to the one brand, although the cheaper JT sprocket carrier will take renthal as its a copy!
 
andyb said:
rotating the rear eccentric from min to max length puts the ride height through a difference of 12mm
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I would saying going from min to max adjustment is a very significant change. I was merely meaning accounting for chain stretch is unlikely to require a ride height tool
 
bp_SFV4 said:
I would saying going from min to max adjustment is a very significant change. I was merely meaning accounting for chain stretch is unlikely to require a ride height tool
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12 mm is about half a thumb’s width. Realistically, you’re using much less than the full 12 mm. And with muddying the waters with all the other modifications like altering gearing, different size tires, adjusting fork leg height, etc it would be tough to discern the effects of the rear eccentric to ride height especially for a novice rider
 
Not arguing for sure, but if you are into the weeds for a track setup maybe it matters. I could tell a difference in how my bike turned when going -1 and -2 in the front both of which could be compensated for by adjusting the stock length chain.

A rider could easily adjust, but if I'm tracking (pun) on track setups, you want to change one thing to suit your purpose for the change while leaving everything else in tact.
 
SBK-SP said:
I’m running EK 3DGP520 chain with Superlite rear quick-change aluminum rear sprocket & steel front from Drive Systems on my ‘21 SP. Use all titanium hardware and there is a significant weight savings over stock. I run the oem rubber/steel cush drives rather than the poly versions for the better lash cushioning. I’m also running 15/42 gearing for my purposes. The bike touches the first flash of impending rev limit at 182mph via gps with the speedo long into - - -. It will likely do several more mph before actual rev cut, but 182 is good for my purpose.
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Replying to my own post to include more info

My changes of -1/+1 results in very little chain length/wheelbase difference. If I just went +3 rear, those changes would indeed be significant.

When changing gearing, you try to make the changes having the least impact to wheelbase/ride height unless that is part of your change goal.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
Not arguing for sure, but if you are into the weeds for a track setup maybe it matters. I could tell a difference in how my bike turned when going -1 and -2 in the front both of which could be compensated for by adjusting the stock length chain.

A rider could easily adjust, but if I'm tracking (pun) on track setups, you want to change one thing to suit your purpose for the change while leaving everything else in tact.
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For trackday riding, keep it simple. A basic setup will do and just ride the bike and improve yourself. If you’re racing, get into the weeds and chase those tenths. Nothing worse than showing up to a trackday (especially in novice or intermediate) and riding with someone who’s skills outweighs his talent.
 
SBK-SP said:
When changing gearing, you try to make the changes having the least impact to wheelbase/ride height unless that is part of your change goal.
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That makes sense and a bit of knowledge isn’t a bad thing in this regard. It would be annoying to try different gearing and be making other changes without the ability or knowledge to recognise those changes.
SuperDomestique said:
For trackday riding, keep it simple. A basic setup will do and just ride the bike and improve yourself. If you’re racing, get into the weeds and chase those tenths. Nothing worse than showing up to a trackday (especially in novice or intermediate) and riding with someone who’s skills outweighs his talent.
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What does that mean - skill outweighing talent? Skills are something I think of as being techniques that are acquired / learned / developed, whereas talent is something I think of as being inherent - something you are born with. If you’d said someone whose ambition exceeds his talent then I’d have known what that meant but I’m not really sure what you meant by the last part of your post.
 
spooky said:
If you’d said someone whose ambition exceeds his talent then I’d have known what that meant but I’m not really sure what you meant by the last part of your post.
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Ambition at a TRACK day is a recipe for disaster. Ambition racing is encouraged. Beginner skills may exceed the talent that you think you possess. Either way, hope the lightweight sprockets work out for you
 
SuperDomestique said:
Ambition at a TRACK day is a recipe for disaster. Ambition racing is encouraged. Beginner skills may exceed the talent that you think you possess. Either way, hope the lightweight sprockets work out for you
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I agree about the ambition vs talent bit, I didn’t understand the phrase you used. Skill exceeding talent wouldn’t be so bad. 🤣
 
andyb said:
was your first three days at Brno with NL and the instructor Glyn?
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I missed that post.

I went with Racing School Europe for my first time on track, which was three days at Brno. I went with them again for my first time at Most - you can’t beat getting tuition and reference points over three days from Troy Corser.

I also went with Hafenegger at Brno and they were very well-organised and helpful.

If NL do Brno again next year then I’ll book with them. I’m fortunate to have two great tracks so close to where I live.
 
Sitta QC sprockets are 63 Euros vs AEM at a bit under 120 Euros… Quite a difference. I’m not sure if there is a reason for the difference in cost.

I like the idea of the AEM all in black and wonder if bolts securing the sprocket are better than the mechanism used by Sitta, although I presume Sitta must be just as secure as bolts or they wouldn’t be doing it.
 
Not sure about V4 swingarm pivot, but on the 1199 the bolt it pivots on can back out. Happened to me on the left side. Made my wheelies inconsistent. I didn't check chain slack at the time but it could create slack.

Thought I'd share as a reminder to check the other aspects of bike you may not have considered.

Its been joked about that 700gms lighter is not much but this is upsprung weight. Not sure how much it would matter at the rear but it certainly can help the suspension handle the road.
 
airjawed said:
Its been joked about that 700gms lighter is not much but this is upsprung weight. Not sure how much it would matter at the rear but it certainly can help the suspension handle the road.
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It’s also rotating mass, thus even more impactful. Overall the reduction is around 1kg or so for the chain, sprocket and flange. Various changes that are not much in isolation all add up. I expect it will reduce transmission loss and thus increase power at the rear wheel marginally but nothing that’s going to make significant differences to lap times. Interesting stuff though and I was surprised at just how much weight difference there is.
 
I use the SUPERLIGHT sprocket setups, as the name implies they are light, but also super easy to change gearing with those.

Generally run a 15/41 setup and find that’s the happy place for most of the tracks in SoCal
 
spooky said:
Fair point.

So you think it’s worth going the QC route then. I noticed that the QC sprockets were cheaper but I did wonder about the additional failure points that exist due to fixing the sprocket to the carrier rather than the sprocket being one piece. I guess it’s probably not something to be concerned about. Most of my riding is at Brno and Most, although I’d like to try some other tracks if it’s practical to do so.
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Quick Change for the win, along with the Woodcraft Risers that allow you to remove the risers without removing the triple tree the quickchange sprocket setups are something you don’t need, until you do, then you are soooo glad they are there
 
spooky said:
It’s also rotating mass, thus even more impactful. Overall the reduction is around 1kg or so for the chain, sprocket and flange. Various changes that are not much in isolation all add up. I expect it will reduce transmission loss and thus increase power at the rear wheel marginally but nothing that’s going to make significant differences to lap times. Interesting stuff though and I was surprised at just how much weight difference there is.
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Speaking of rotating mass, what tires are you using? Reducing mass at the point furthest from the center of axle (tires) does have a significant effect. Stock tires weigh more than slicks or track day tires. Less rubber/ life but you should feel performance gains if you are at pace.
 

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