848 bad charging system?

What would cause the bike to lose battery power and kill the bike? I do not know electrical stuff. I have new ricks alternator and new electrosport regulator and exhaust wrap with extra protection around regulator. I have red and black cables coming off battery going under the seat with electrical tape on the ends. I have unhooked factory red cable that goes to the starter solonoid i think is what its called, and have a thicker red wire going from battery to starter solenoid. Off the solenoid i have two red wires added for an aftermarket starter button because the original doesnt work. I killed a banshee battery and thought it was just not good quality and got a yuasa and same thing happened.

When does the battery drain? While the bike is sitting unused, or while it is in operation?

In operation

I also have one fan hard wired red to one of the fuses and black to the battery. Idk anything about electrical but i wouldnt think that nor the jumper cables running under the seat would drain the battery but i dont know. Everyone im talking to in person keeps saying stator but idk how, i got a ricks stator and electrosport regulator with idk less than 200 miles on them now

Clapped848 said:

Everyone im talking to in person keeps saying stator

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They should be telling you to test the charging system. There's a ton of videos online to learn how. Just telling someone in your position that it's the stator is poor troubleshooting.

Clapped848 said:

jumper cables running under the seat

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That's how you start a fire. Do not run an unfused (hooked directly to the battery) positive (+) wire under the seat or to anywhere else. If the electrical tape you have on the end comes loose, or the cable gets damaged and it grounds out, touches any metal part on the bike, it will catch on fire.

bp_SFV4 said:

They should be telling you to test the charging system. There's a ton of videos online to learn how. Just telling someone in your position that it's the stator is poor troubleshooting.




That's how you start a fire. Do not run an unfused (hooked directly to the battery) positive (+) wire under the seat or to anywhere else. If the electrical tape you have on the end comes loose, or the cable gets damaged and it grounds out, touches any metal part on the bike, it will catch on fire.

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Finally, i meet someone who can properly guide me at least a little bit.
Also surprised nobody said anything about the cables going under the seat.....

Ive successfully done the tests in the video with my super cheap harbor freight tool. My stator was putting out 1 ohm. With it running was around 20 on average and with it running around 4-5k rpm i was getting roughly an average just below 70. So i figure stator is good. Check battery while runningand it doesnt go above 12.2 or something voltswhile revving. So is the regulator bad? Did i maybe get sold a bad regulator or is it something with my wiring? I am going to remove seat fire cables and inspect wiring again i already checked 30amp fuse and then ill test battery again if its still bad which im assuming, then im assuming i got sold a bad regulator.

Could it be bad ecu???

I think it might have been like 12.7-12.9 not 12.2 *

No reason to think it’s the ECU. What 30 amp fuse was blown? If you replace it will it blow again?

Was the battery fully charged when you did the test and was the sator hooked back up? I don’t think it’s super necessary that the battery be fully charged. If it has enough to start the bike and with the bike running it should be 13-14V.

The voltage should be higher while the bike is running, and your sator checks out. I wouldn’t replace the rectifier just yet. I’d double check the wiring going from the sator to the rectifier and from the rectifier to the battery.

ETA I’m using the word rectifier and you’re using regulator. We are talking about the exact same part just using different terms.

Some good info here:

https://www.ducati.ms/threads/stator-or-voltage-regulator.665345/

I was just about to order regulator with long wires to relocate in place of exhaust valve thing and get end piece for that so no check engine light. But my only card that has money didnt go thru cause the billing and shipping address is different lol..... i suspect it is a bad regulator because of the alternator doing okay in all the tests i did but the only way i was able to understand how to test regulator was thru battery terminal with bike running and revving. Doing this, my battery voltage was under 13 the entire time. So i am assuming my regulator is bad and will try to relocate the position of it with a new regulator with longer wires so i dont have to do that wire stuff myself. I found the MW tuning regulator and figured i would try because its the only thing that makes sense to me but i guess i have to wait to see. And also the 30 amp fuse i checked and it was good, not blown, the single fuse in front (left side) of battery.

Your new electrosport regulator should have a warranty. Can you send it in to them and potentially save some money? For sure they'd be able to test it in more advanced ways and know what's going on with it.

Way past their 30 day policy