Electrical Burns on my Ducati 848

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Yep that's it. It's a factory rectifier. It may be ok so fix the fired connector. I'm thinking that's what you were smelling when you fired it up. Did you figure out where the water temp sensors are? Since the kill switch works take the starter switch apart and see if the contacts are burnt. If it's not too bad you might be able clean it up and reuse it. You redid the cam tensioner pulleys right?
 
Was kinda putting it on hold til i got some more money lol... i did get multimeter tho, havent used yet. Good news to hear possibly able to re use factory starter switch, i will take that apart and check it out when i get a chance. I didnt do the cam tensioners nor anything with the valves....i wanted to get into all that but was about to take the valve covers off and decided to try to inspect thru hole and wasnt too clean and was running out of money so i figured anything more i want to do than just the belts, i likely wouldnt had been able to afford. So figured these things should be reliable enough to just run some extra octane or additives hopefully clean things up a bit the Italian way, then maybe do more mechanical work/maintenance later when i also hopefully have more money lol...
 
OK. So a cheap fix for the alternator connection is to cut out the browned portions of the yellow leads out and attach the remaining bits of the leads together with the solderless lugs (thick ones which you clamp onto the cables). Hopefully you have enough unbrowned wire left. These should be kept connected to the lead mated to it. Original to original. These have to be insulated from one another so buy the appropriate shrink wrap and double shrink each. Before you do this disconnect that connector start the motor and check the alternator output. The alternators rarely fail but check anyway to be sure. Few bucks for lugs and shrink wrap will get that done. I'm trying to figure out what the yellow/green, yellow/red wires that are cut are for but regardless reconnect them and make sure there are insulated. Those are good motorcycles and the motor and drivetrain are really reliable if maintained appropriately.
 
20240310_010145.jpg

Ok just to confirm, i need to cut and shrink connect the wires on my middle finger. Then hopefully get the original starter button cleaned up to working order. Then am i supposed to remove all 3 of the red wires going to alternator? And connect the original wire that isnt hooked up to anything?The two are for the aftermarket starter and the one going from battery to alternator is clearly not factory. But why add that extra wire and tape off the factory one?
 
20240310_014552.jpg

Starter contacts cleaned up decent, was putting back on and never noticed how messed up the wiring for that it is just had exposed wire to nothing lol....
 
Got things a little better but my starter button does not work, just ordered the assembly. If that also does not work i am stumped.
 
Clapped848 said:
View attachment 53961
Ok just to confirm, i need to cut and shrink connect the wires on my middle finger. Then hopefully get the original starter button cleaned up to working order. Then am i supposed to remove all 3 of the red wires going to alternator? And connect the original wire that isnt hooked up to anything?The two are for the aftermarket starter and the one going from battery to alternator is clearly not factory. But why add that extra wire and tape off the factory one?
Click to expand...

The melted connector where the 3 yellow wires pass from the alternator to the rectifier thru a 3 prong connector fix that. Use the meter on resistance and pick up the starter switch feed and read the resistance. When you press the switch the resistance should disappear. If that appears ok the wirings screwed up. Resist buying stuff until you're sure actually it's bad. That's what the meters for.
 
Ok i tried to cancel the order because yeah when i tried to press the original starter button it would turn off other things i think everything but the speedo, so you are saying i messed up the wiring to make it do that? I really have no clue on electrical stuff, basically another language but im trying to understand. Having the previous owner done a bunch of stuff too doesnt help me out much either.
 
OK we're making progress. If you pull the lights down etc. when you hit the starter button it works. So most likely you have a short in the hot wire from the switch to the starter solenoid. If you follow the big cable from the hot lead on the battery you'll find it connects to a starter relay. To the relay are smaller wires, one is going to the starter switch. The short is most likely in that wire. Put the meter on resistance put one lead onto that wire put the other on the battery ground and if the resistance goes away you've verified you have a short to ground. Undo the extra starter switch, undo the wires going to the fans and where you find the last owner hacked into the harness, like the yellow/green and yellow/red above, and reconnect and shrink wrap. After you fix this stuff we'll try to figure out why the fan circuitry was hacked into.
 
Ok trying to understand , when you say ........ alright i think we may be hopefully on to something here lol... okay so the yellow/green and yellow/red are the wires coming from the starter relay. (I just cleaned the exposed wire with vinegar and electrical taped it good, is this good enough?)) Now, theres the hot wire going from battery to starter relay, and one from relay going to starter. And then the wire that got repaird, which then connects into the harness. Now also, i think i did mention it has aftermarket levers, these levers were tapped into the wiring for whatever reason....so i have two wires from the killswitch assembly that were cut into for the levers...could this be the reason the original starter button does not work? I will try to send a photo of that wiring.....now i also wonder if PO messing with lights and whatever else might be the reasoning for the fan to be wired.........
 
20240311_143728.jpg

So there that which those two go to the aftermarket brake lever....... and then i had sent that picture with the killswitch still plugged in and that side was all messed up with the one wire exposed not even hooked up...........starting to wondering if i need the aftermarket starter button after all....?
 
No tape. Shrink wraps cheap and stays on. Put the harness back like it was delivered from the factory. Where you have a problem circuit, figure out where the ends are and then you can check for shorts etc. So start with what the factory delivered as far as the wiring then repair as necessary. If you're going to ride this for awhile you'll be glad you did.
 
Ok bagman, you gave me some wisdom and so i think the smart thing to do is spend about 300 on a stator and regulator. Just kidding , for now , im going to see what the next door shop says about that stator connector.....i wasnt even looking at that before lol.....and i was wondering how the hell it was so oily and whatever as is but i think you are right that the aftermarket battery to starter relay was bypassing the 30 amp fuse.......and i also realized the lever wires are supposed to be like that and my killswitch/original starter should work......still learning
 
Perfect. Ok when it starts, runs and is charging the battery you need to figure out why the fans were jerry rigged. Since this one of the last beltdrive superbikes only one temperature sensor. So if the coolant gauge on the dash works normally the sensors ok and should be able to turn the fans on. Let it idle until it hits fan turn on temp 104 C (may need to stick something in front of the radiator), I think this is 5 bars on those is where the fans turn on. I have an R temperature gun so you just point those at the radiator and read directly ($25 Harbour Freight). If the fans come on perfect, but if not since the temp gauge works it a problem in the wiring or the fan relay has failed. And the fan circuit has a fuse. Both it and the relay have to be good. If the temperature gauge doesn't work then it's the H2O sensor itself or it's wiring.
 
Bagman you dont happen to work on volvos by chance do you cause it sort of seems like it....? (Also remember me saying i replaced a cpl fuses but not all and idk why well i guess i should have checked them all lol i think i had 3 that were different amp than manual showed. I left the one with the fan wire as is with the 20a rather than 15a the manual called for. Also one of the fuses was in bad shape wasnt broken inside but one of the prongs seemed basically broken idk much about these tho)(oh and next door look it all over for a min sort of explained testing voltage but had to leave, im stuck on this duc and my volvo lol...i know i should have left them alone but the axle seal i replaced is leaking, got it out and have extra one the same which seemed same as what was in before which wasnt leaking. But i went to ipd and got genuine volvo seal and it is slighlty different from the ones i have but seems slightly smaller outer diameter so im just confused all around lol.))));
 
I think i need to get a mosfet regulator for sure...
17104450411326504021011330796992.jpg

Can see here how i think regulator #9 affects the fans. And all this was bypassed with some bs im just wondering if i should just order a stator as well or get the regulator and see if that makes it work or not......the connection is kinda shot it seems but like u say can clean up and work but i dont want to do all that spend the time and then stator not even work or work for shoet period and leave me stranded...
 
Ok lol.........i think i need to replace stator too.........and it seems like i have to drain coolant and take clutch slave off and shifter and alll that good stuff then can access stator lol that might be why they did the bs wiring
 

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