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Odd but I am no tech sorry.
Let's know what transpires.
Does extreme cold effect batteries? Hasnt NY had very cold conditions just a thought
Let's know what transpires.
Does extreme cold effect batteries? Hasnt NY had very cold conditions just a thought
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- Oct 12, 2014
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- Cincinnati
Ducati recommends .9A to maintain the battery, I wonder if the tender is compatible?
I also have been having issues, not sure if it's freezing temperature in the midwest, but the battery would display 12.9v (not running) then I'll try to start it, it cranks a few times and drains the battery back down below 12v. Although I have yet to remove the Charcoal Canister, which might solve the issue of hard start...
I also have been having issues, not sure if it's freezing temperature in the midwest, but the battery would display 12.9v (not running) then I'll try to start it, it cranks a few times and drains the battery back down below 12v. Although I have yet to remove the Charcoal Canister, which might solve the issue of hard start...
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There are two separate issues relating to starting - hot starting and hard starting.
Hot starting involves the charcoal canister and manifests itself when attempting to start the bike after it has been running for a while.
Hard starting is where it takes several cranks to start, hot or cold, and there was an ECU update released towards the end of 2014 that allegedly fixed or alleviated this issue.
Extreme temperatures will impact battery life, but hot weather is actually worse than the cold. If the tender wasn't reading the levels correctly and didn't provide an adequate charge, then the battery might have gone bad.
You might want to consider this as an excellent opportunity to get a Shorai battery. Not only is it much lighter, but it retains a charge for longer periods of time. I haven't started my bike for a few weeks and went to put it on a tender this weekend - it went from red to fully charged in a matter of seconds.
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Yep, I've read over a few threads and am really considering getting a Shorai. I had the Canister removed on my 848, and definitely will on the 1199. I use C-tek tender and have never had issues with it, but I'll investigate some more and see what resolves the issue.
the bike is on a tender and in a heated garage, the DDA is plugged in but with it being on a tender it should not be an issue.
This is not a charcoal canister issue as there is simply no power and the canister was removed.
i think there might be a drain on thet battery somehere.
I'm relucatant to put a shoei battery on this bike as it needs alot of power to crank it and these batteries only save on weight.
This is not a charcoal canister issue as there is simply no power and the canister was removed.
i think there might be a drain on thet battery somehere.
I'm relucatant to put a shoei battery on this bike as it needs alot of power to crank it and these batteries only save on weight.
From a cursory search it seems that DDA's have a tendency to drain batteries.
http://ducati1299.com/ducati-1199/2026-dda-experiences-so-far.html
http://ducati1299.com/mechanical-technical/2740-dda-turn-off-disconnect.html
Stone dead battery on my Tricolore - ducati.org forum | the home for ducati owners and enthusiasts
The general consensus is that one shouldn't keep it connected at all. The drain might be exceeding the amperage from your tender.
I thought it might be that but my friend has his bike with the DDA plugged in and he has zero issue (we park beside each other)
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I beg to differ regarding the Shorai battery only saving weight:
Shorai LFX14A2-BS12 Lithium-Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) PowerSports Battery
Chemistry Lithium-Iron Phosphate
Voltage 12
Capacity 14Ah
Rating Whr 168
Cca 210
Weight 1.61 lbs
Warranty 2 Year
Yuasa YT7B-BS
Chemistry Dry Charge AGM
Capacity 7Ah
Rating whr 84
Cca 120
Cellnum 6
Weight 5.90 lbs
Warranty 6 Months Free Replacement
But the stock battery should be fine and it's not so i need to work out what's wrong before replacing as the same thing will happen the shorai or any other batter manufacturer.
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The stock battery sucks. However, I agree that you need to find the root cause of the issue. I just wanted to clear the air on the battery specs... just for when you sort this out and might consider a Li-Ion battery.
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Using the same battery tender on both bikes at same time? Stock AGM-type battery on them (or on yours)?
Are you using a Deltran Battery Tender? How long have you had it? Same tender used on previous battery that you said had gone bad?
Could be the battery tender. If it doesn't go into float charge mode after charging your battery fully, that will shorten battery life.
Also, DDA being present or not, there is some parasitic current drain on the battery. There's enough being used to at least maintain the on screen clock/date as well as the user trip odometers. So at least one of the on-board computers stays on (in low power mode, no doubt) with the key off.
I'm not a fan of leaving a battery on a charger indefinitely - even though it has a float charge mode. I use a charger (Deltran Battery Tender that's about 15 years old) to top the batteries on my Pani and Triumph - usually overnight - and then disconnect.
Idon't think it the battery tender and i use different battery tenders on both bikes that have the float charge mode, the battery is stock
this is the second battery that i have gone through so i'm at a loss as to why it's happening and i don't have the option to take it off the tender overnight.
this is the only bike i have ever had this issue.
yea thats what i was thinking i have to take off the rest section due to it being set up for track, my biggest issue now is working out if the battery is toast.
Forget the fancy batteries and all that goes with it.
The stock battery "should" be absolutely fine unless you're unlucky and or the charger is faulty in some way.
For expediency, I personally would assume the current battery is toast "for now" until proven otherwise.
One thing is absolutely critical to battery life with all things being equal.
That is the state of charge a brand new battery actually has before the first hit of the starter button.
It should be charged to it's fullest capacity.
The manual states a maximum charge rate of 900 milliamps. This is consistent with the charge rate of high quality maintenance chargers, and is totally correct for the stock type of battery.
I personally prefer Ctek chargers.
I would charge a brand new battery up to maximum capacity on the correct setting after getting it home.
Then disconnect the charger and let the battery rest for a while (1-2 hours).
Reconnect the charger and bring it back up to full capacity. This whole process may take a day or more to complete, assuming the charger is functioning correctly, the battery will be at maximum capacity.
If possible. I would check the voltage across the battery terminals with a reliable multimeter to verify.
Install the new battery, and disconnect the DDA as it's a variable which can be eliminated, and it has been well documented it the past as a cause of premature battery failure.
Monitor the situation over a period of time with the bike on the same charger, and if all is well, re-introduce the DDA back into the equation.
That is your best way forward.
Bras that is really good advice and I agree with all of it and I actually bench tested this battery before connecting to make sure all was good so it's not the battery.
However maybe it's the battery tender I have on the bike that has been a fuse rather then the actual charger?? Maybe that's worth a try as I'm going to take the battery out this weekend and see if I can charge it
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If you do take the battery out to charge it, don't set it on concrete. That will drain it as fast as it's charged. Hope that helps.
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That's an old myth, rather this would of happen back in the day but not with modern technology.
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