Best rearsets for the Panigale V4

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Not at all. I use their rear sets and gas cap however I have zero bias. The fact is that you made a statement based on absolutely zero data. You have no idea what may have happened to lead to the failure. You just arbitrarily claimed poor manufacturing. Quality parts fail all the time and in many cases it was traced back to some event that weakened the part.

Still not saying that it wasn’t a Mfg defect however unlike you, I wouldn’t make a statement that has zero analytics behind it. You made a blanket statement about a manufacturers quality based on one event that has zero failure analysis behind it. That’s a bit irresponsible and ignorant.
I’m not making a statement with zero analytics …. The analytics would be quite literally stated in the fact that the handle bar snapped in two like it was made of balsa wood ….. Not sure why I would need scientific data to back that up when the obvious was already stated based on the fact that a friend was airlifted to the ICU BECAUSE THE LITETECH HANDLE BAR WAS OBVIOUSLY DEFECTIVE BASED ON THE FACT IT BROKE OFF WHILE HE WAS RIDING THE BIKE…. It didn’t break when he crashed ….. He was on the brakes straight up at zero learn angle between two turns and the handle bar snapped causing him to lose control , endo and crash . What other proof would you need besides that captain obvious? Should we stress test the broken part ? Should we call Bill Nye the science guy ??? So what your saying is a quality parts manufacturer deem that type of failure acceptable??? So , it’s ok if you are manufacturing a part and 98% of them are structurally sound but 2% are allowed to fail ? And the statement that Quality parts fail all the time is just nonsense …… Quality parts do not fail all the time …. Cheaply made .... parts are the ones that fail and break …..Not sure too many people would be buying Audi’s if reports started coming out saying the steering wheels were falling off while people were driving them … Not too sure about your idea of quality but when it comes to handle bars ( arguably the single most important part of a motorcycle ) in my opinion there’s no room for error. It’s either made 100% correct or it’s not made AT ALL.
 
I’m not making a statement with zero analytics …. The analytics would be quite literally stated in the fact that the handle bar snapped in two like it was made of balsa wood ….. Not sure why I would need scientific data to back that up when the obvious was already stated based on the fact that a friend was airlifted to the ICU BECAUSE THE LITETECH HANDLE BAR WAS OBVIOUSLY DEFECTIVE BASED ON THE FACT IT BROKE OFF WHILE HE WAS RIDING THE BIKE…. It didn’t break when he crashed ….. He was on the brakes straight up at zero learn angle between two turns and the handle bar snapped causing him to lose control , endo and crash . What other proof would you need besides that captain obvious? Should we stress test the broken part ? Should we call Bill Nye the science guy ??? So what your saying is a quality parts manufacturer deem that type of failure acceptable??? So , it’s ok if you are manufacturing a part and 98% of them are structurally sound but 2% are allowed to fail ? And the statement that Quality parts fail all the time is just nonsense …… Quality parts do not fail all the time …. Cheaply made .... parts are the ones that fail and break …..Not sure too many people would be buying Audi’s if reports started coming out saying the steering wheels were falling off while people were driving them … Not too sure about your idea of quality but when it comes to handle bars ( arguably the single most important part of a motorcycle ) in my opinion there’s no room for error. It’s either made 100% correct or it’s not made AT ALL.
Your right, chief, All LITETECH components are garbage and their Manufacturing and QC are garbage as well. Everyone here running anything LITETECH, do yourself a service and remove that junk. It’s all obviously defective and it’s just a failure waiting to happen. If you are running any LITETECH Components, get rid of that Chinese junk and get yourself some LIGHTECH components. Top quality stuff
 
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I’m not making a statement with zero analytics …. The analytics would be quite literally stated in the fact that the handle bar snapped in two like it was made of balsa wood…

Maybe not “zero”, but as near as makes no difference.

You’re basing your assertion on anecdotal evidence. Doesn’t mean it’s NOT what happened, but it doesn’t mean it definitively IS what happened either. Could be a manufacturing defect, but might also have been mishandled at some point prior to your buddy installing it. With zero analysis aside from “manufactured, installed, failed”, nobody knows for sure what happened.

Either way, I’ll have a good thought for your buddy.
 
.... is that Howard from Duc Modified?? LOL

I think germanring has it all wrong so just because Lightec is stamped on that bar tube does not mean they manufactured it give it a break man its off the shelf 6061 aluminum tubing same identical stuff you would get from Vortex, AEM, Woodcraft, Attack etc. Been doing this .... way too long to know there is no way the tube would have snapped so something is missing.


Nuff said.
 
Trust me I get it . I’m just that type of loyal person . I back and respect my people and I ride or die with them . There’s no grey area with me it’s very much black and white . I’m either with you or by definition against you .. no if, and’s or buts … very much cut and dry . Again I will say it ! .... LITETECH !!! Everyone who supports them , looks like them … .... , Anyone who has ever put a damn light tech sticker on their tool box … It’s like that !!! … You don’t make products that break and endanger people’s lives !!! Plain and simple …. Step your game up !


Blanket statements like this rarely ever hold value in any field. Kind of ignorant actually.
 
I’ve had the gilles tooling on a bunch of bikes and have always had great luck with them . I’m 6’2” and they work great . I have the Rizoma rear sets on my Panigale V4SP and I don’t really like them too much . They grab my boot almost too much and are pretty short .
The Ducati Performance Rizoma's are a copy of the CNC Racing rear sets. But I think that CNC Racing's quality is better. Tall guys love the Gilles Tooling MUE2 rear sets. They have a lot of adjustability and can also be set lower than stock. Plus a lot of guys like them because they are so easy to adjust. You dont have to unbolt the footpegs like on the lightechs or Attack performance. And you dont have to unbolt the entire bracket off the bike like on the CNC Racing or on the Aella. Just unscrew one screw, twist and rotate the Gilles Tooling. @BHRN bought a set of Gilles Tooling recently from me for his SFV4. As well as a few other guys here in NY in the past two weeks. Im not sure why the Gilles dont sell as much as the CNC Racing or Lightechs for Ducatis. I would say at least 60% of the rearsets sold to Ducati guys are CNC Racing. And BMW guys tend to go for Lightech and Gilles. I had Gilles on both of my BMWs until switching to Lightech R series. After comparing all 3. They all shift perfectly. I never one lightech return but that was because of looks. But at the end of the day IMO the CNC Racing and the Gilles Tooling feel like they have a slightly stronger build. Im not taking anything away from lightech. Great company. But some people will attribute a lighter thinner rearset to being a little less in quality.
 
.... litetech!!! My friend is in the hospital right now because his litetech handlebar literally just snapped while he was on the track racing …..caused him to crash badly…. Had to get airlifted to the ER yesterday . They obviously had .... quality or quality control …
Hope your friend is doing better. But if all of us blamed ducati for every issue,, Ducati would be out of business. There could have been some variables as to what happened. I seen guys snapping their bars because they werent tightened properly in place causing small movements up and down. And with each movement bending the bar until eventually it snapped. Thats one scenario I can think of. Maybe is just me but Ive never heard of a lightech bar snapping. We can sit here and go back and forth about lightech. Or any other bar for that matter. Point is your friend is alive and will recover. Some guys arent so lucky. Id rather be all busted up but be 6ft above ground any day rather than being 6ft under.
 
Whilst it's easy to cite a manufacturing defect, there is no supplemental information given in the statement to support this nor any metallurgical analysis. Simply stating it should not have broken and therefore the fault lies with the manufacturer is frankly ridiculous, since there are a myriad of reasons a part may fail, not least if it was incorrectly fitted, incorrect torque settings used, had previously been subject to stresses/impacts which may have weakened it's structural integrity. The material used for handlebar tubes is not "unobtanium" and a lot of manufacturers will uses similar based alloys to one another, so were this a genuine metallurgical failure of the material itself, could just as easily be down to a defective batch from the supplier, which may or may not show up during any machining process. If 'german4rings78' wants any kind of credibility, then I suggest you ask your colleague (who I am thankful to hear is in good care) to submit the broken part to Lightech directly or better still to an independant metallurgical test facility, who will not only be able to tell you how the part failed but also the likely force needed to cause the failure, which will reveal a lot more about the incident than mere observation ever will. More to the point it will be factually correct.
 
Whilst it's easy to cite a manufacturing defect, there is no supplemental information given in the statement to support this nor any metallurgical analysis. Simply stating it should not have broken and therefore the fault lies with the manufacturer is frankly ridiculous, since there are a myriad of reasons a part may fail, not least if it was incorrectly fitted, incorrect torque settings used, had previously been subject to stresses/impacts which may have weakened it's structural integrity. The material used for handlebar tubes is not "unobtanium" and a lot of manufacturers will uses similar based alloys to one another, so were this a genuine metallurgical failure of the material itself, could just as easily be down to a defective batch from the supplier, which may or may not show up during any machining process. If 'german4rings78' wants any kind of credibility, then I suggest you ask your colleague (who I am thankful to hear is in good care) to submit the broken part to Lightech directly or better still to an independant metallurgical test facility, who will not only be able to tell you how the part failed but also the likely force needed to cause the failure, which will reveal a lot more about the incident than mere observation ever will. More to the point it will be factually correct.

This 100%.

Well said.
 
Normally I would always recommend CNC Racing, then Lightech. But in this case I think I would recommend the new Gilles Tooling design. They actually have the most adjustments to them and go as low as 1.4 inches. And the best part about them is you dont have to unscrew anything to adjust them. This is the newest design to any rear sets on the market. You just push and rotate to where you want them to be. Here is a link to the gilles tooling site. I will shoot you a PM Rearset MUE2, schwarz
Is there a particular torque setting for the torx 45 adjustment screw in the centre of the red circle or just hand tighten?
 
Is there a particular torque setting for the torx 45 adjustment screw in the centre of the red circle or just hand tighten?
Here is a video showing the gilles tooling install. They pretty much come fully assembled in the box.
 
Here is a video showing the gilles tooling install. They pretty much come fully assembled in the box.

This video was the main reason after which I bought these rearsets apart from other users praising them here in the forum .I understand that they come all set up to install but my question was about tightening the t45 screw after adjustment.I checked the manual and I think it is 20nm .Thanks for your reply
 
This video was the main reason after which I bought these rearsets apart from other users praising them here in the forum .I understand that they come all set up to install but my question was about tightening the t45 screw after adjustment.I checked the manual and I think it is 20nm .Thanks for your reply
If I am not mistaken the manual did say 20nm. But 20nm is 14.75ft lbs. At that point the guys who bought these from me told me they just hand tightened them because they worked on so many bikes and parts. That such a low pressure can be hand tightened. And they knew what over tightening feels like. One dude told me when he tightened it. Once it was almost not moving and about stiff. He just gave it a slight twist just to rotate it a little. But didnt over tighten so that the screw stripped. Same on many other parts. I do the same as well. Its when the torque #'s start getting above 20 or 25 I begin using a torque wrench. So far after all these years Ive never had a issue. Well no I take it back. No matter how much I follow Harley oem or after market parts torque specs they always loosen even with lock tight. I go over my harley once a money. Then again I have a S&S 124 Twin cam motor with high compression and my full clutch basket assembly has 49 teeth and my custom cycle engineering although are the best front and rear motor mounts on the market. They cause the bike to vibrate more than usual lol
 
Yes 20Nm. And I used a bit of blue loctite on every thread.
One thing nobody mentions, after rotating the rearset arm to desired position, depending on how big a change, you may also want to similarly rotate the (folding) footpeg so that it still folds towards the rear at about 45°. Very quick and easy but it is a second adjustment.
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