Bike cutting out and no start

Joined Nov 2020
486 Posts | 415+
Raleigh NC
Need ideas. At the track today my v4 cut out on me twice and left me in what could had been a dangerous situation. In both cases I was at high lean in a right turn and transitioning from brakes to throttle. As I started to roll on the throttle the bike just didn’t respond to throttle and felt like it was going to die. I pulled off the track both times and killed the bike, then tried to restart and it wouldn’t start. After waiting 1-2 minutes it started again. Initially I thought it might had been overheating but when I went back out shows the usual temps of 220 F. Thought I might had been having DQS or gear sensor issues but that seems to be working fine. Here what’s left for me.

1. Maybe a little low on oil and at lean the bike sensed low pressure? Pressure light never came on though.
2.The recently installed ducabike switch housing maybe causing some quirks with the ride by wire.
3.The IMU may be misbehaving.
4. A bad batch of fuel
5. Failing battery

anyone have any thoughts? I feel lucky someone didn’t slam into me when this happened.
 
so appears something is wrong with the electronics. The bike won’t start in gear with the clutch pulled in. I tested the clutch lever switch with a multimeter and it is functional, when I pull it in I get a closed circuit. Somehow the ECU doesn’t think I have it pulled in though.
 
When my clutch microswitch broke it had continuity when both closed and open. In my case, my quickshifter wouldn't work. The ECU thought the clutch lever was pulled in and wouldn't cut or blip the engine when told to by the QS.

I ordered an overpriced Ducati OEM replacement but ended up using a pressure switch banjo bolt which will switch when I use two fingers on the clutch lever. The lever only triggers when the clutch lever is pulled all the way to the grip. If you only use two fingers on the lever the switch will never close.

There was another post on here where a rider reported that their bike kept dying. The problem was the cylinders weren't synced up. This was something the dealer diagnosed and corrected.
 
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Found my culprit. The duca bike right handlebar switch appears to be not functioning. Looks like damage to the connector. Plug the stock switch in and all is good.

well this sucks because I’m doing to have to go back to stock master cylinder since my RCS won’t fit with the stock switch. Lots of work tonight here in the garage at the track. FML
 
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When my clutch microswitch broke it had continuity when both closed and open. In my case, my quickshifter wouldn't work. The ECU thought the clutch lever was pulled in and wouldn't cut or blip the engine when told to by the QS.

I ordered an overpriced Ducati OEM replacement but ended up using a pressure switch banjo bolt which will switch when I use two fingers on the clutch lever. The lever only triggers when the clutch lever is pulled all the way to the grip. If you only use two fingers on the lever the switch will never close.

There was another post on here where a rider reported that their bike kept dying. The problem was the cylinders weren't synced up. This was something the dealer diagnosed and corrected.

I still think your clutch lever switch is an anomaly. Mine engages at about 1/3 of the levers travel, right where the friction zone is. It seems like the mechanical switch the lever presses on to engage the sensor on yours got bent in a way that made it not engage until the very bottom of lever travel. I have not seen another Panigale with that issue.
 
One of the pins in the molded connector on the right switch backed out, I was able to repair it fortunately. In the off season I’ll send it to Duca bike to get a real repair though. Glad I’m back up and running. This was a fun gremlin to track down and one that almost caused a crash.