Brake/Clutch fluid 1199

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Apr 9, 2013
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what do you guys recommend on the brake/clutch fluid on the 1199?
my clutch has to be bleed every 3 months.
using FUCHS DOT 3
its getting spongy and dark in color every 3 months
 
Its down to the manufacturer and what the systems have been designed to use.

Ducati and Brembo specify DOT 4, which has a higher temperature resistance, so I would stick with that.

DOT 5 has even higher temperature characteristics, but is silicone based and doesn't play well with systems designed for 3 & 4.
 
Its down to the manufacturer and what the systems have been designed to use.

Ducati and Brembo specify DOT 4, which has a higher temperature resistance, so I would stick with that.

DOT 5 has even higher temperature characteristics, but is silicone based and doesn't play well with systems designed for 3 & 4.


In addition Dot 5 is absolutely not recommended for ABS braking systems.

Dot 4, Super dot 4/Dot 5.1 are advisable for use in the 1199.
 
My f/r brake & clutch reservoirs look like whiskey-filled ashtrays after 6 weeks and 1400mi. Seconding the OPs ask on fluids, especially stuff that'll last longer. Sheesh.
 
I was told that ducati is recommending this.....
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid

Exceptionally high dry boiling point of 590 ºF (Wet 518 ºF)
Superior anti-vapor lock properties
Safe for all non-mineral oil-based disc and drum brake systems
Exclusive European formula!
Exceeds SAE 1703, ISO 4925, JIS K2233, FMVSS No. 116 DOT3 and DOT 4
 
In addition Dot 5 is absolutely not recommended for ABS braking systems.

Dot 4, Super dot 4/Dot 5.1 are advisable for use in the 1199.

Yup that is correct...DOT 5 is silicone based..No good for our brake seals etc... Go for DOT 5.1 instead.

I bleed my brakes and clutch fluid from time to time as I do several trackdays a year...So bleeding the brakes and clutch is imperative, as the fluids get cooked in due time due to the heat the brakes and engine generates during hot trackdays here in the Phils.

I use Motul's RBF600 RBF- Racing Brake Fluid which is DOT 4 with a Higher boiling point than other DOT 3, 4 or even 5.1 of other brands.

Never had problems with my brakes or clutch, as I service them often myself...(Bleeding both brakes and Clutch, also cleaning Clutch slave cylinder due to muck it collects)...

I also change Oil/ Oil Filter often after two hard trackday weekends....Full Synthetic Engine oil, always!!!!
 
Has anyone had any luck with fitting the replacement slave cylinders ? Noticed any improvement.

My clutch has just got stiff after 5000 kilometres.
 
Has anyone had any luck with fitting the replacement slave cylinders ? Noticed any improvement.

My clutch has just got stiff after 5000 kilometres.

Hey bradp51....
1.simply remove the slave cylinder...
2.detach the piston inside the slave cylinder....
3.apply metal polish and polish the inside wall of the slave cylinder housing...once polished,
4.reinsert piston...
5.bleed using RBF600 Motul brake fluid and your clutch will be back to normal and wont feel stiff ever.
 
Has anyone had any luck with fitting the replacement slave cylinders ? Noticed any improvement.

My clutch has just got stiff after 5000 kilometres.


I replaced my OEM one with an Oberon on my KTM RC8R. After researching on this forum and others, (before I bought my 1199), I purchased an Oberon for my 1199.

IMHO, either Oberon, or Sigmet clutch slaves. All the rest may look pretty, but won't hold up as well. Oberon also sells rebuild kits or you can send your in for repair.

BTW, the pistons on these CSs are dual and triple sealed to prevent leaks, which then becomes a bigger problem should the clutch fluid ever mix with the engine oil.

Hope this helps.
 
Has anyone had any luck with fitting the replacement slave cylinders ? Noticed any improvement.

My clutch has just got stiff after 5000 kilometres.

Hi Brad,

Can you expand on what you mean by "your clutch has just got stiff"? I went for a big ride last weekend and my clutch lever was very spongy, so I bled it out, now it won't engage until I have almost released the clutch lever entirely with a bit more revs to engage.
 
I just remembered, cause I was trying to forget..... On y RC8 I accidentally used ( to say mixed) two different fluids. Emulsion took place and it began to eat at the seals in the master ( by the lever) and cause it to get real stiff. I would maybe try flushing the line from bottom to top and make sure you have one type of fluid. Or just get a master cyclinder rebuild kit from Ducati and see what happens.
 
RBF600 as well. As far as it getting dark, don't think there really is anything to do. Seems like the heat on this bike will make it dark ASAP....meh.
 
what do you guys recommend on the brake/clutch fluid on the 1199?

I use Motul RBF600.

Has anyone had any luck with fitting the replacement slave cylinders ? Noticed any improvement.

I have a CNC 28mm slave. Smoother, lighter pull and more consistent engagement point. Not a huge difference though.
 
Last edited:
RBF600 as well. As far as it getting dark, don't think there really is anything to do. Seems like the heat on this bike will make it dark ASAP....meh.

+1
The RBF600 is the ..... It was the only stuff that worked for me when I raced.
Also not too concerned about the color. My rear brake reservoir shows black fluid inside. My bike has just over 1200 miles on it. Less than two months old. I think it's fine.

All that said, I'm not going to be paying RBF600 prices for a fluid I regularly bleed out. I'm not putting this bike on the track so I won't be heating up the brakes nearly as much. If I ever do run in to those types of problems I know what to do about it.
 
Hey bradp51....
1.simply remove the slave cylinder...
2.detach the piston inside the slave cylinder....
3.apply metal polish and polish the inside wall of the slave cylinder housing...once polished,
4.reinsert piston...
5.bleed using RBF600 Motul brake fluid and your clutch will be back to normal and wont feel stiff ever.

Thanks mate will give that a go. Sounds a lot cheaper than putting a new one on.
 
Hi Brad,

Can you expand on what you mean by "your clutch has just got stiff"? I went for a big ride last weekend and my clutch lever was very spongy, so I bled it out, now it won't engage until I have almost released the clutch lever entirely with a bit more revs to engage.

sorry mate should be more careful with my words. after a long ride from sydney to canberra and return I noticed I could not get into neutral from first or second. so I adjusted the lever out to get more travel and was able to use it that way. just thought I would bleed it to see how that goes.
I am also going to give the inside of the cylinder a clean like mig1199 suggests or buy an oberon one if the problem persists.
Having said that have had no problems in over 5000 ks. I use motul600 racing fluid.
 
sorry mate should be more careful with my words. after a long ride from sydney to canberra and return I noticed I could not get into neutral from first or second. so I adjusted the lever out to get more travel and was able to use it that way. just thought I would bleed it to see how that goes.
I am also going to give the inside of the cylinder a clean like mig1199 suggests or buy an oberon one if the problem persists.
Having said that have had no problems in over 5000 ks. I use motul600 racing fluid.

No worries. I think I'll look at Mig's suggestion as well. See if there is anything noticeable.
 
Another RBF600 user here. I was contemplating the RBF660 as well, maybe next time.

Castrol SRF is the best brake/clutch fluid to use, but boy its pricey.
 
... I noticed I could not get into neutral from first or second. so I adjusted the lever out to get more travel and was able to use it that way. just thought I would bleed it to see how that goes...

That happened to me several times and got better after I bled it. But, I bled it like 4 times in 6 mos, so I changed the slave and I haven't had to bleed it since (4 mos). But, I would definitely try Mig's rec before spending the money. Wish I thought of that...
 

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