CBE Thermostat Housing Replacement

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wortdog said:
I just got done fitting the CBE thermostat replacement housing along with Samco hoses in an attempt to head off thermostat housing failure with my '18 V4S. It is definitely a nice part as it is machined from a single piece of billet.

View attachment 36977

I find it interesting that the CBE will always allow some coolant exiting the heads to bypass the radiator and head straight to the water pump inlet, much like the stock thermostat housing does when the thermostat is cold. This is very different to the Febur thermostat bypass, which is just a pipe from the heads to the upper radiator hose.

Anyone have any experience running the CBE on the track? @MaverickiB have you had a chance to try yours out yet? I won't get to try it out until I head to NCM in a week, but I will be able to log some data on it when I do.
Click to expand...


Yo where can I get this so I can replace the stock flimsy one that comes on the 1299
 
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You say for racing but when you take the system apart and look at how it works you will see that once coolant is to temp and the t-stat is closed they both function the same
 
My bikes never had thermostats Don nor any stock hoses, radiators or fans so never had worry about any that. The SBK systems such as H2o, Febur, etc work the way they should.


Don14R said:
You say for racing but when you take the system apart and look at how it works you will see that once coolant is to temp and the t-stat is closed they both function the same
Click to expand...
 
I think Mick is running the H2O SBK radiator (oil/water) and no fan on the street . So that’s an upper water radiator only and no fan. I guess it’s working for him.
 
Yes thats the setup I have been running for a couple years now oil/water with water wetter and no fan zero issues never got above 185 degrees.

endodoc said:
I think Mick is running the H2O SBK radiator (oil/water) and no fan on the street . So that’s an upper water radiator only and no fan. I guess it’s working for him.
Click to expand...
 
I guess it depends on where and how you ride. If you go from startup to freeway speeds, you should be ok. My bike would look like the aftermath at Chernobyl if I tried that but I ride everywhere including stop and go/traffic.
 
Hmm I don’t throw a code if the fan is unplugged only if the ECU signals the bbs to turn it on when the temp trigger hits and it’s not there. If you have software (Woolich etc) you can set the fan trigger to max to fix that
 
My all water H2O actually runs to cool so I use a block off plate on the upper when OAT is 70 or below. H2O all water, no thermostat, 5” fan on the lower, no fan shroud, no fan tunnel.
 

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Hey man so I made a fan delete plug took a male and put a resistor across both pins so the dash wouldn't throw a error super easy.


Hey Mick, what was your solution for removing the fans as far as error codes go? Do you just live with the check engine light?
[/QUOTE]
 
That’s weird cuz my Woolich software will only let me LOWER the temp at which the fan cycles, it won’t let me raise it any higher than oem

Also weird is that the 96580011a electrical connector racing kit says it comes with a fan bypass - but the only 2 plugs that have a resistor in them are the headlight/sidestand plugs. The fan plug is effectively just a cap to keep the pins clean I guess?
 
Wanted to post an update on my experience with the CBE thermostat housing. It didn't work well for me. On track it averaged about 20 degree higher coolant temps than the stock thermostat. In June it hit 265 as I rolled into the pits and I said enough is enough. I threw on an H20 radiator and am happy to report it runs a nice cool 188 to 190 on track and barely cracked 200 as it was going up on the stands.
 

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