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This may sound like an odd question, but for the guys that are having air problems, how is your clutch lever adjusted?
I noticed with the adjustment screw at one end of the maximum range, when I squeezed the lever, it sounded more "airy". Like, you could hear bubbles and ..... Squishy.
Which is well articulated I know, but at the opposite end of the extreme range of adjustment this sound was completely absent.
I noticed with the adjustment screw at one end of the maximum range, when I squeezed the lever, it sounded more "airy". Like, you could hear bubbles and ..... Squishy.
Which is well articulated I know, but at the opposite end of the extreme range of adjustment this sound was completely absent.
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It's a known issue and DNA might eventually take care of it if your bike is still under warranty.
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Should be a nut under the rubber boot.
Do you, or do you not have free play before adjustment?
With aftermarket levers, it adds to the possibility of the adjustment being out of whack.
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Yeah, they will....but it'll happen again, so I went with an Oberon. When I pulled the original off the o-ring was WAY too big. Like two sizes too big. They must've run out of the small ones at the factory and gave me the Ron Jeremy one.
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Free play is required.
Its why your slipping.
When I changed a lever on my 848, it did exactly what your talking about.
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I did not know that hydraulic clutches had free play? It is impossible to adjust for any free play or to take it away on my Tri.
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when I pull in the clutch lever there is about 3-4mm of movement of the lever before you feel resistance and the pin going into the clutch housing - I take it thats not enough.
With my CRG RC2 levers I'm not sure how to make the adjustment needed - lets see if Google will help.
With my CRG RC2 levers I'm not sure how to make the adjustment needed - lets see if Google will help.
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...if you're still trying to figure that out
-- head down to the dealer for that free 5 minute consult regarding your issue(s)....you & your dealer will be glad you did - Status
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