CNC Racing Triple/Upper Triple/Clipon and Ducabike Clip ons Group Buy

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OK, OK... I just need to understand why the Ducabike is $244 and the CNC is $374 - 20% which is still $70 more. I just dropped some serious $$$$ on some Rotobox wheels, so I just need to get in a position to justify the deal. That's all...
 
I gotcha.

I've been staring both clamps also. CNC looks beefier, but other than that they could be the same.

One thing I read about Ducabike is that a couple of people said that their brake/shifter pedals broke on them. Could be the nut behind the wheel though =-)
 
OK, OK... I just need to understand why the Ducabike is $244 and the CNC is $374 - 20% which is still $70 more. I just dropped some serious $$$$ on some Rotobox wheels, so I just need to get in a position to justify the deal. That's all...

It is lighter and as I can see from the pics seems to be milled better, plus it looks alot better too. Plus the CNC one includes their steering nut which is also black anodized and the ducabike one uses the bare alum oem steering nut.
 
For many this would be a dealer fit anyway I'm presuming. I know some are handy with a wrench but given how you need to change the top yoke and steering nut (as discussed in my other thread) - many will think that is too much of a PITA and opt for the stealer fit.
 
I wonder how much a dealer would charge for this Wolf? Any quote you got?
 
Hopefully an hour tops. Thats still $100 =-)

I am not even sure we have to support the front to remoce the upper triple or steering stem nut. If not its just unbolt and rebolt no measurements etc I'm doing my own.
 
As Topolino said
You will need to remove the top yoke before you can remove the steering stem nut. Ideally when you unscrew it, you should have the front end on a paddock stand to support the lower yoke and forks. Use a proper tool to remove it and screw the replacement on to the specified torque. This must be done with, as you rightly point out the paddock stand bearing the load. Ie. no axial load on the lower head race bearing. You must ensure you don't over tighten it as you can easily stretch the threads of the soft alloy stem nut and use plenty of grease to ensure you achieve an accurate torque. You can then replace the top yoke and torque up the three bolts. Do not remove the load bearing paddock stand until these are tight and check your steering afterwards for any signs of axial or lateral play and if it feels unduly stiff. You need to back the steering damper right out to be able to check this or better still temporarily remove it. The torque figure you need is 25Nm BTW. Hope this helps.

So yeah I reckon an hour max probably more like 30 if the stealer isnt in total p1sstake mode.
 
Sweet perfrct time to have grips and levers swapped while they have it
 
Need one more. I would like to call them tomorrow and make this official for 20% off. 4 have 4 need at least 5
 
Really we only need 1 more. Come on someone get in on this please
 

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