Copper Manifold Nut (Having issues with removal.)

Ducati Forum

Help Support Ducati Forum:

T

TransNone13

Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
3,292
Location
Someville, Somestate
Any tips guys? I'm trying to stay calm. I have the copper nut that won't come off that is just stripping and the exhaust plug cap seized in the manifold with a broken allen key in it... Seriously, I've got my tail between my legs on this one. I've already ordered new plugs and nuts. Now to get them out/off... I'm so sure who I can take the manifold to, but guessing not much will get done tomorrow. Thinking muffler shop? As to the nut, I've got no tricks up my sleeve.
 
If you dont have power (air) tools, then you will need a small chisel and hammer along with some patience and perseverance to get them loose. You will likely need to work it around a few turns with them if they are galled/seized. Make sure you apply a penetrant oil to them before and during the removal.
 
When you put a new one on, use high temp antiisieze on the threads, not sure if it'lll hold up over a long period but next time around if it makes removal even a tiny bit easier can't hurt.
 
I am putting high temp grease on immediately bought that before hand. Issues with this bolt is the clearing, I will post a picture. I'm going to grab some liquid wrench and a butane torch. I will also see if they have those tools in a wrench form, sockets don't fit in there. Thanks for the recommendation, this will likely work on the stud bolt. The plug will need the torch probably.
 
TransNone13 said:
I am putting high temp grease on immediately bought that before hand. Issues with this bolt is the clearing, I will post a picture. I'm going to grab some liquid wrench and a butane torch. I will also see if they have those tools in a wrench form, sockets don't fit in there. Thanks for the recommendation, this will likely work on the stud bolt. The plug will need the torch probably.
Click to expand...

Whats worked for me in this situation and i"ve done it a lot. I do repair cars for a living so got decent tools. You will need to get a good quality and narrow bladed screwdriver ideally a Snap-On one as they have a good shape at the tip and are strong. If you can wedge it under the nut, apply a bit of gentle twisting pressure as if removing a screw and while maintaining the pressure try and wind nut off with a quater drive slimline ratchet and socket. I am assuming its the small 10mm nuts that attach the header to the cylinder head,there are 3 nuts,that you are talking about. If its those nuts then any heat treatment will be pointless. Either the thread in the nut has strippd or the stud has stripped. Either way you are trying to get the nut to make a purchase on a bit of thread remaining. Once it bites,you can usually wind all the way off and jobs done. Hope that helps and good luck. Keep calm and think about it,you will do ok.
 
supduc10 said:
Whats worked for me in this situation and i"ve done it a lot. I do repair cars for a living so got decent tools. You will need to get a good quality and narrow bladed screwdriver ideally a Snap-On one as they have a good shape at the tip and are strong. If you can wedge it under the nut, apply a bit of gentle twisting pressure as if removing a screw and while maintaining the pressure try and wind nut off with a quater drive slimline ratchet and socket. I am assuming its the small 10mm nuts that attach the header to the cylinder head,there are 3 nuts,that you are talking about. If its those nuts then any heat treatment will be pointless. Either the thread in the nut has strippd or the stud has stripped. Either way you are trying to get the nut to make a purchase on a bit of thread remaining. Once it bites,you can usually wind all the way off and jobs done. Hope that helps and good luck. Keep calm and think about it,you will do ok.
Click to expand...

I got the plug out, I'm going to have t re-tap it. At least it's out... Sears doesn't open until noon, so I have to wait. I'm going to try the nut cracker sockets, if that doesn't work I can try a chisel, and if that doesn't work... The nut is copper so I will cut it with a dremel until it is weak enough to crack. I'm just going to have to take my time so I don't nick the stud.
 
Yeah, i"ll have to see a picture to see were you mean exactly. I just read you can"t get a socket in.
 
TransNone13 said:
Any tips guys? I'm trying to stay calm. I have the copper nut that won't come off that is just stripping and the exhaust plug cap seized in the manifold with a broken allen key in it... Seriously, I've got my tail between my legs on this one. I've already ordered new plugs and nuts. Now to get them out/off... I'm so sure who I can take the manifold to, but guessing not much will get done tomorrow. Thinking muffler shop? As to the nut, I've got no tricks up my sleeve.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by "just stripping"? Is the nut just rotating on the stud and not screwing off or is the took your using slipping on the nut because its rounded off?
 
20130106_095341.jpg
 
Thanks guys all fixed. Now just have to wait for new nuts and plugs. Nut remover worked instantly. Torch removed plug but hole was buggered. Tap from craftsmen fixed it right up.

Phew, now I have more cool tools lol.
 
TransNone13 said:
Thanks guys all fixed. Now just have to wait for new nuts and plugs. Nut remover worked instantly. Torch removed plug but hole was buggered. Tap from craftsmen fixed it right up.

Phew, now I have more cool tools lol.
Click to expand...

Well done. You"ll find the nuts aren"t actually copper,its just a coating on a steel nut. If you have any mechanic friends ask them if they have any Snap-On combi wrenches. They do a spanner with small teeth in the open ended jaw,ideal for that situation were space is tight and the possibility the fastener is gonna be tight. If you believe Snap-Ons claim and i do cos i"ve used said spanners they can deliver X amount more torque to the fastener than a regular smooth open end jaw,and also grip slightly worn nuts too. Remember that one for future dramas lol.
 
supduc10 said:
Well done. You"ll find the nuts aren"t actually copper,its just a coating on a steel nut. If you have any mechanic friends ask them if they have any Snap-On combi wrenches. They do a spanner with small teeth in the open ended jaw,ideal for that situation were space is tight and the possibility the fastener is gonna be tight. If you believe Snap-Ons claim and i do cos i"ve used said spanners they can deliver X amount more torque to the fastener than a regular smooth open end jaw,and also grip slightly worn nuts too. Remember that one for future dramas lol.
Click to expand...

Like this one:

WRENCHES > Non-Ratcheting > Long Pattern Combination > | GearWrenchâ„¢
 
Yeah, I noticed it was just coated... But yes I do trust snap-on, there's no coincidence the military issues them with the tool kits for tanks.

Thanks for the heads up on the teethed wrenches. Didn't know they made those. Felt really good to unfuck everything. New nuts and plugs were ordered yesterday, so I'm on hold until then.
 
TransNone13 said:
Yeah, I noticed it was just coated... But yes I do trust snap-on, there's no coincidence the military issues them with the tool kits for tanks.

Thanks for the heads up on the teethed wrenches. Didn't know they made those. Felt really good to unfuck everything. New nuts and plugs were ordered yesterday, so I'm on hold until then.
Click to expand...

Yeah,check them out Trans. "Flank Drive Plus" is what Snap-on call it. Ya have to see it to appreciate it. Not exactly teeth as I said,more a set of shallow non uniform grooves and ramps. looks like .... but works brilliant. Not dissing you Snap-on,so dont come knocking trying to sue my arse lol.;)
 
20130112_123804.jpg


If anyone is following, I finished this morning after i got the new nuts and plugs. It really does sound better. Upmap was weird, wouldn't take before loading my slip upmap first. Will go to the dealer and make sure the upmapv2 sticks since its an unlock code IIRC.
 

Similar threads

F
Panigale V4S DQS custom fix
Replies
0
Views
392
Fulcrum
F
jjj0923
Termignoni High Pipe Full (nearly) install - observations
Replies
4
Views
1K
jjj0923
jjj0923
Helo AP
Well…. Back at it, V4 mods and Termi 4Uscite notes on a 23 base.
Replies
8
Views
1K
cavlino
cavlino
M
  • Locked
SOLD! 1299 S Part Out - Everything, Marchesini wheels, frame, seized engine, fuel cell, body, etc etc
Replies
14
Views
2K
MdDuc
M
SuperDomestique
NPX 25/30 spring swap tutorial
2
Replies
35
Views
4K
RickD996
RickD996

Register CTA

Register on Ducati Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions

Back
Top