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You can’t read the oil level in the sight glass with the motor warm, it takes HOURS for the oil to drain down to the sight glass. By the time all the oil has drained from the heads it won’t be warm.

Let the bike sit overnight and take a reading, fill it to the mid point line.
 
"Let the bike sit overnight and take a reading, fill it to the mid point line." - Mid point ? not the Max line as the instruction states?
 
burton said:
You can’t read the oil level in the sight glass with the motor warm, it takes HOURS for the oil to drain down to the sight glass. By the time all the oil has drained from the heads it won’t be warm.

Let the bike sit overnight and take a reading, fill it to the mid point line.
Click to expand...

Ducati procedure says 2 hours, not wait overnight. If a shop is following the correct procedure and let's say you ride the bike in, they are directed to wait 2 hours, drain, fill, fire up for a minute or two, then wait another 1hr for it to drain down for the final reading.

Once again, the difference between 2 hours and overnight is marginal. That is also likely why their procedure is to fill to the middle point between the two lines, as it leaves room for some residual oil error.
 
MaverickiB said:
Ducati procedure says 2 hours, not wait overnight. If a shop is following the correct procedure and let's say you ride the bike in, they are directed to wait 2 hours, drain, fill, fire up for a minute or two, then wait another 1hr for it to drain down for the final reading.

Once again, the difference between 2 hours and overnight is marginal. That is also likely why their procedure is to fill to the middle point between the two lines, as it leaves room for some residual oil error.
Click to expand...

Yeah, 2 hours should be enough. It just drives me nuts waiting for 2 hours. I find it easier to forget about it until the morning.
 
I always aim for midpoint between min and max, maybe a touch above mid point. I will double check again hours later or again the next day.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
Why?

I don't know if I'd choose to run a high RPM engine low on oil.
Click to expand...

Maybe I wasn’t clear in my post. I make sure it is at the mid mark or slightly above after it has sat overnight, not immediately after toppling up.
 
Many shops weigh the oil they take out and replace it with the same weight. That eliminates the necessity to wait for hours (time is money for some people). I always forget to weigh mine before dumping it in the collective oil bin. :rolleyes:
 
0260n25 said:
Many shops weigh the oil they take out and replace it with the same weight. That eliminates the necessity to wait for hours (time is money for some people). I always forget to weigh mine before dumping it in the collective oil bin. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
i use a measuring beaker, i pour the drained oil in it ,measure it and pour in fresh oil back into it to get the same amount. seems easier than weighing it i think
 
I guess this is why most cars dont have dipsticks- the internet would clog and die. Step one RTFM.
The sightglass does not make it easy I'll grant you that. Ideally you need a front wheel chock but most people resort to the old one handed kneeling balancing the bike with the side stand down trying to eyeball the level. Been done many times and always sucks

1) The level check must be carried out with engine kf
for at least 2 hours, to allow time for the oil flowed in
the cylinder heads to reach the sump.
2) Position the bike with both wheels on a flat ground
and in straight position.
3) Then, check the engine oil through the sight glass.
4) If the oil level is below the middle line between the
MIN and MAX marks, add oil until reaching the
maximum level indication.
 
nealeo said:
i use a measuring beaker, i pour the drained oil in it ,measure it and pour in fresh oil back into it to get the same amount. seems easier than weighing it i think
Click to expand...

Oil expands when hot, so you should measure your old oil volume at the same temperature as the new replacement oil. This is why some shops weigh the oil so they don't waste time waiting for the oil to cool and settle and weighing is easier than heating or cooling the replacement oil to the same temperature as the old oil. If you measure the volume of warm/hot engine oil and then replace it with the same volume of cool/cold oil, then you will get a different reading in the sight glass. However, cold and hot engine oil is almost the same weight - hence the reason some people use weight instead of volume to make oil changes quick and accurate.
 
0260n25 said:
Oil expands when hot, so you should measure your old oil volume at the same temperature as the new replacement oil. This is why some shops weigh the oil so they don't waste time waiting for the oil to cool and settle and weighing is easier than heating or cooling the replacement oil to the same temperature as the old oil. If you measure the volume of warm/hot engine oil and then replace it with the same volume of cool/cold oil, then you will get a different reading in the sight glass. However, cold and hot engine oil is almost the same weight - hence the reason some people use weight instead of volume to make oil changes quick and accurate.
Click to expand...


Good points! I heard F1 teams do all Fuel by weight, not volume.
 
0260n25 said:
Oil expands when hot, so you should measure your old oil volume at the same temperature as the new replacement oil. This is why some shops weigh the oil so they don't waste time waiting for the oil to cool and settle and weighing is easier than heating or cooling the replacement oil to the same temperature as the old oil. If you measure the volume of warm/hot engine oil and then replace it with the same volume of cool/cold oil, then you will get a different reading in the sight glass. However, cold and hot engine oil is almost the same weight - hence the reason some people use weight instead of volume to make oil changes quick and accurate.
Click to expand...
i measure both at room temperature:)
 
This measuring of used oil is new and honestly a waste of time. What about the oil in the filter? Does the filter have an anti-siphon valve? How much oil is in the filter?

Drain it
Add oil to filter, screw filter on
Install drain plug
Add 3.25 qts, start it, let it idle for a minute. Shut down, add to bottom of sight glass, shut down, come back two hours later.
Top off as required and mark the fourth bottle, maybe its 3.75 qts.

This weighing and measuring stuff is over the top.
 
CanyonCarver said:
This measuring of used oil is new and honestly a waste of time. What about the oil in the filter? Does the filter have an anti-siphon valve? How much oil is in the filter?

Drain it
Add oil to filter, screw filter on
Install drain plug
Add 3.25 qts, start it, let it idle for a minute. Shut down, add to bottom of sight glass, shut down, come back two hours later.
Top off as required and mark the fourth bottle, maybe its 3.75 qts.

This weighing and measuring stuff is over the top.
Click to expand...

Yes, you can do it that way, too. Some people may see the option of weighing oil as a time-saving and more accurate method (like dealers who can serve customers faster if they don't have to wait 2 hours for the oil to drain). If it wastes your time, then don't do it that way. Simple.
 
Serious question, and specific to the V4 - what is the downside to be slightly overfilled on oil?

I know some engines HATE it, and will smoke and die, but others won't. I used to have a friend with a CBR600 who spent half of his time on a 12 o'clock wheelie who said the CBR didn't mind extra oil, which was nice because then it wouldn't run dry when completely upright for long periods of time. Other engines/bikes don't work the same way and might have negative side effects, but what is the V4's behavior?

Obviously the ideal thing is to have oil level measured correctly, oil change procedure done correctly, oil always at the exactly correct level, etc etc. I guess I'm just worried... if it's overfilled, how screwed am I (specifically on a V4)? Haha...
 
It could escape through the rebreather into the airbox, damage oil seals or be whipped into a foam by the crankshaft.
 
My Japanese bikes never minded a little extra oil (30 years of bike ownership), but my Ducatis spit it out on the very first ride (crankcase vent tube, airbox, and sometimes oil cap). My XDiavel gets very unhappy with even the slightest overfill (top line is too much). My wife's Yamaha R3 doesn't mind extra oil either. Obviously, I try not to overfill but it is hard to notice on the Japanese bikes, whereas the Ducati will tell you right quick (in my experience).
 

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