ducati 899 paint care strategy

outhouse said:

Keeping a polymer on it with a carnuba is about the best protection without repainting the bike.

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So rather then unload a lot of cash on a stronger clear coat which I'm really not keen to do. Use something like Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba Plus, which has polymers and carnauba in it, and provided I do it regularly then it shouldn't be an issue?

Thanks. I appreciate the info.


Also the 1199 guys who seem to always bring up why not by a base 1199 in every single thread in the 899 section, well they are out of my price range unfortunately (there's between 5-7K difference depending on who you talk too). I was going to get a Ninja 636 but decided to throw in a bit more cash and get my first Ducati. No regrets.

I'm not updating anything to try and make my bike look like a 1199. No weird Superleggera stickers, no aftermarket dash or single sided swing arm. I actually really like the 899 the way it is. But thank you for your concerns.

Good on you
There should be more of it

92GTA said:

This thread is useless without suggestions on how to care properly for a single stage, water based paint job for all the people who do not know how.

Personally, I'm just not going to let it bother me. When the time comes, I'll just have a local hot rod shop do a polish for me to bring it back. Until then, I'll ride without any concern.

Alex

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Get the 3M protection kit. It's a pain in the ass to apply. I did one or two sections each session on my 1199. It's virtually invisible.

Rowan said:

Also the 1199 guys who seem to always bring up why not by a base 1199 in every single thread in the 899 section, well they are out of my price range unfortunately (there's between 5-7K difference depending on who you talk too). I was going to get a Ninja 636 but decided to throw in a bit more cash and get my first Ducati. No regrets.

I'm not updating anything to try and make my bike look like a 1199. No weird Superleggera stickers, no aftermarket dash or single sided swing arm. I actually really like the 899 the way it is. But thank you for your concerns.

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Go out and beat on it brother.


Ive been through all these debates before when I had my 848 and did not choose to get the 1098.

Rowan said:

So rather then unload a lot of cash on a stronger clear coat which I'm really not keen to do. Use something like Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba Plus, which has polymers and carnauba in it, and provided I do it regularly then it shouldn't be an issue?

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Exactly.

Paint may get harder with time as well.


they also spray these bikes with a thick coat in your case. I highly doubt you would ever rub through despite the color your seeing bleed off.



I never worry about paint or looks, to me the bike is a tool, that has one purpose. Being beat on.

You'd be surprised at how thin the paint is on recent Ducati's.

I doubt you'd find any bodyshops / paint shops jumping at the idea of compounding / polishing out panels.

Polishing with a machine, maybe but with all those sharp edges.... one hiccup with the buffer at 1800 rpm and you're gonna roast an edge. Then the dummy with the buffer owes you a repair job.

If you're CAREFUL you can gently sand the existing finish with 600 grit and maybe find a local body shop to use a high quality hi-solids clear and spray them up.


As far as care goes for a single stage paint.
1. Keep it clean, dirt = sandpaper.
2. as someone else mentioned the modern clear protective film (mylar) is actually a pretty decent product. Installed correctly it's barely noticeable.
3. I hate wax for dual stage finishes, for for single stage, it's better than nothing.

Thanks for a Professional opinion Sean (CCR) since not everyone knows exactly what is involved in paint. Since you eat, sleep, and breathe it (literally) its good having someone on here who can answer technical stuff like this.

Anyone not aware who Sean is from CCR can speak to a number of guys here on this forum who've actually had work done by him and can attest to his attention to detail and serious nature when it comes to his work. I know LJuice (Leon) had a sweet set of race bodywork done recently which came out great! Also, Sean was very helpful explaining to Leon why Sharkskinz is the BEST aftermarket bodywork to go with on many levels. Anyone curious why can contact him directly for the nitty gritty on that.

Custom Motorcycle Paint | Connecticut Cycle Refinishing

I have had 5-6 bikes, and various individual pieces done by Sean and actually won best paintwork on a couple of them. The American Flag paint on Phil's new SV race bike (my old bike) is a CCR job but is obviously not a premier work of art due to it being a hammered on track bike I went down on a couple times. Perhaps some of the other guys who've had CCR Paint jobs done are willing to chime in? And to answer the most asked question- NO he does not charge ridiculous prices for fantastic work!

ccr said:

You'd be surprised at how thin the paint is on recent Ducati's.

I doubt you'd find any bodyshops / paint shops jumping at the idea of compounding / polishing out panels.

Polishing with a machine, maybe but with all those sharp edges.... one hiccup with the buffer at 1800 rpm and you're gonna roast an edge. Then the dummy with the buffer owes you a repair job.

If you're CAREFUL you can gently sand the existing finish with 600 grit and maybe find a local body shop to use a high quality hi-solids clear and spray them up.


As far as care goes for a single stage paint.
1. Keep it clean, dirt = sandpaper.
2. as someone else mentioned the modern clear protective film (mylar) is actually a pretty decent product. Installed correctly it's barely noticeable.
3. I hate wax for dual stage finishes, for for single stage, it's better than nothing.

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Quite correct.

However, a small random orbital detail polisher with 4 inch (orange and white) foam pads will do a wonderful job if one knows what they're doing.
I used that gear on the 1199 with some Pinnacle finishing polish and the paint came up totally swirl free

Next time I need to do it, i'll try some Chemical Guys Blacklight as it's my new go to Glaze with a very minor amount of cut when used with a machine and some pressure.

You'd have to be a monkey on drugs to make a mess of it when using the right gear.

My issue is removing bug guts. I'm using new microfiber cloths and I have Rain-X bug and tar remover. Even then and a wash with a good car wash soap, there were like "ghost" shadows in the paint on the nose fairing where the worse of the bug guts were. I'm worried about hurting the paint and making scratches swirls trying to remove them. I suspect I'm going to have to, then do something to protect the nose fairing like thick coat of wax.

Any suggestions? Thanks! This is on a red 899 btw!

I soak the bugs before touching them with a strong car wash mix and very warm water.
I dunk the wash mit into the solution and let it sit on the surface for a little while and they wash away clean.

I have also been using Chemical Guys VO7 as a last step on the front, and it helps the bugs to come off cleaner and easier.

I have also found that Swissvax Concourso is a good barrier with great staying power if you're looking at a Carnuba past wax.
First step. Chemical guys Blacklight applied with the Meguires yellow foam applicator pad.
Second step. Swissvax Concourso applied by finger tips and or Chemical Guys VO7 as a last step.

So the idea is to use the 3m protector.

Is this something worth applying professionally? What would it cost to have it applied by someone who knows what they are doing?

You could go online and find people who do it and get a quote.

I think it's around $500 here in OZ.

JosephManderley said:

So the idea is to use the 3m protector.

Is this something worth applying professionally? What would it cost to have it applied by someone who knows what they are doing?

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Perhaps it is like in Switzerland? Most of the shops that offer a full car wrapping also offer stone chip wrap stuff with 3M etc.

I did some parts on my 1199 on myself (tank and upper fairing where the knees rub the paint), I think if a pro does it, you can not tell any difference to a piece without a wrap.

I have a 1098, and was just thinking of switching to a 899, now I've got over the double-sided swing-arm, b&w display, and other cost-saving changes, so doing some research.

Now I find that there's no clear coat on the red bike, and this is putting me off again.

How many different ways do they need to cut costs on a £13K (UK) bike?

Maybe I can offer some advice...

First, let me quickly qualify myself. I have owned an operated a high-level detail business for almost 9 years, traveled the world, and used to do state-side prep for Bugatti USA... Bella Macchina: The Art of Detailing

Second, I worked as a product developer for Autogeek/PBMG (which manufacturers the product line "Pinnacle" named earlier in this thread). I was the Director of Development for their Autopia brand and BLACKFIRE Car Care Products. I have also worked with Meguiar's on the development of their DA Microfiber System.

Third, I am the current national technical sales manager for RUPES SpA, which is an Italian tool manufacturer who makes a line of polishers, compounds and pads. We work with several OEM and aftermarket paint suppliers and I have direct access to several paint chemists.

All of that said...

I have a 2013 Diavel Carbon Red, and the paint on that is also a single stage. This likely made it easier to paint over the carbon and remove the tape lines wet.

Basically single stage paint (modern single stage) combines the color and protective elements into one (colored) layer, usually comprised of several coats.

Base coat / clear coat is the typical type of paint found on most bikes (and cars). The difference that the first layer of paint is the color or tint and the second layer is clear. Most, if not all, of the protective ingredients in the system are in the clear coat.

However, clear coat is not really a clear coating, it is simply a mostly transparent clear paint. Most clear coat is not completely clear, but rather has a white or yellow tint when sprayed thick enough.

Some paint jobs, like the one on my Tricolore, feature a combination of all of the types of paint, plush graphics, which are then cleared over completely.

So what does this all mean for you?

The old single-stage enamel and nitro cellulose (lacquer) paints used to oxidize fairly quickly. It wasn't uncommon to see cars in the 1960s completely oxidized (dull) on the dealer lots. However, other than being tinted, the paint on your 899 is much much better...

Treat the paint on your 899 the same as you would any other modern painted surface. Wash it carefully using pH-neutral car soaps and soft media. Dry it carefully with soft microfiber towels. Avoid doing anything that rubs grit over the surface. Protect the finish with a high-quality wax, sealant or paint coating.

The only major difference you may notice is that if you use a chemically or mechanically abrasive polish to remove scratches or surface blemishes you will notice some color. The paint may or may not be more susceptible to chemical staining from gasoline, bird bombs etc.

I used opti-coat 2.0. .....we will see how well it holds up this summer

92GTA said:

My issue is removing bug guts. I'm using new microfiber cloths and I have Rain-X bug and tar remover. Even then and a wash with a good car wash soap, there were like "ghost" shadows in the paint on the nose fairing where the worse of the bug guts were. I'm worried about hurting the paint and making scratches swirls trying to remove them. I suspect I'm going to have to, then do something to protect the nose fairing like thick coat of wax.

Any suggestions? Thanks! This is on a red 899 btw!

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When I come home - I usually soak a few paper towels in warm water - wring them out(-ish) - drape them over the front fairing and my helmet, let it soak for a bit, remove and wipe dry with a microfiber cloth. Process only takes me a few minutes.

Holy necro-thread batman

Less paint - less weight. Fine with me.

Phl said:

Less paint - less weight. Fine with me.

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I don't buy the less paint theory. I have measured the paint thickness on several modern Ducati's, and have never found any area that I would consider thin, or at least thinner than most OEM finishes. I have found various inconsistencies, but nothing less than 4 mils / 100 microns in total thickness. On my tank, the clear coat itself is roughly 2.5 mils, which is actually quite substantial. However, on one of the green stripes on the tail of the Tricolore only has 1.1 microns, which is thin, but not terrible.