dyno procedure?

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vcyclenut

vcyclenut

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Has anyone dyno'd their bike yet?

If so what procedure did you use as far as preventing any kind of check engine light?

I am going to be dynoing my V4 and another this week

Most bikes I can just turn off the traction control or remove the rear wheel speed sensor.


Did you get a check engine light that had to be cleared by the dealer?

Thanks
 
I haven't done my V4.

You'd think putting it in race mode, turning off TC, ABS and wheelie control should be sufficient and not thrown a CEL

Please post the charts so we can all see them
 
just in case anyone else is looking

all I did was unbolt the rear wheel speed sensor and zip tie it out of the way

put the bike in race mode with tc on 1 and I had no issues

I couldn't do back to back runs without the bike getting very hot, so I would do a run, leave my dyno cooling fan running while the bike sat for 3-4 minutes and then would do another run. I got more hp the second run every time I did this, I repeated this again for a 3rd run and each time the 2nd and 3rd run would match. Meaning this a good repeatable procedure for getting a good number
 
Also, when you do dyno with a tach signal, could you please post up what wire and how you connected to it (inductive clamp?). There are likely many of us on this forum that will go to a dyno where this is the first v4 they have done. This info would be super helpful to minimize dyno time.
 
ArcticWhite said:
What happened if you didn't unbolt the rear wheel speed sensor?
Click to expand...

idk I didn't test it, didnt want to take the chance of needing a check engine light when it literally took 1 minute to remove the sensor

if when woolich releases the software it has diagnostic reset I will test it

I will post up the color of the wire to use from the ecu when I test it
 
I have not. But being <$100 and they market it to the home maintenance crowd, it should do what it says. Otherwise it is a marketing disaster and would lead to a lot of negative press and loss of sales.

At a very minimum, you return it for a refund and pay the dealer a few bucks to wipe the code.
 
Mode - Race
TC - OFF

Dyno results with termig and upmap. HP should be a bit more on new tyres, my tyres were kinda soft and slippery from the track hence the flat curve at high RPM
 

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dmavbs said:
Mode - Race
TC - OFF

Dyno results with termig and upmap. HP should be a bit more on new tyres, my tyres were kinda soft and slippery from the track hence the flat curve at high RPM
Click to expand...

Full stock V4?
 
Only 189 with Termi exhaust and upmap? IIRC i saw a post from you with the full 4Uscite correct?

@DucatiKev pulled ~201 with Zard slips and no map. Yes, different dyno, test procedures and temps... but that is a big gap from a ~$2k slipon vs a~$4k full system
 
With TC off no codes. No need to clear anything

49643988398_3cf93702be_c.jpg
 
Good to know I don't have to pull the wheel sensor.

Now, just to understand how to connect to the tach signal!

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 
WyldCFH said:
@DucatiKev pulled ~201 with Zard slips and no map.
Click to expand...
I bet if I put my bike on Dynos across the country, there would be no consistency in HP figures. It’s not a standardized testing situation

there is one thing that’s been in the back of my mind since reading that post abt the carbon fiber rear wheel that melted off that one guys bike... check your rear brake, it might be clamped even when your not stepping on the lever. Maybe it’s been cured for V4 models but check that the rear wheel spins freely when it’s up on the stand, and another a nice ride feel the brake disc and wheel with the back of your hand or a temp camera.
lube the chain and make sure there’s good air flow during the runs
 
There is nothing to fix. Brakes are set properly from the factory. People don't realize when they do rearsets how important proper set up of the brakes are. When I pulled my rear sets off and put them back on, I set up the rear brakes for no drag and the freeplay I thought it should have. Then I compared to what is recommended in the service manual and the factory calls for more freeplay than I would have put in.

How many people are setting freeplay to factory specs when they change front brake and clutch levers and rearsets? How many people even own a service manual?

The answer to that will tell you why there are failures like that rear wheel out there.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 
DucatiKev said:
I bet if I put my bike on Dynos across the country, there would be no consistency in HP figures. It’s not a standardized testing situation
Click to expand...

Of course there would be differences, that's why I mentioned it.

You can see 185-190 stock pulls on youtube, different people, different dynos in different countries all within a few HP... and to think a ~$4k system with map is not doing any better is disconcerting. Termi may just need to tweek their map some more or maybe @dmavbs needs to reapply the map and callibrate. Could also be a worn tire not gripping the roller well so HP is lost...
 
dmavbs said:
Mode - Race
TC - OFF

Dyno results with termig and upmap. HP should be a bit more on new tyres, my tyres were kinda soft and slippery from the track hence the flat curve at high RPM
Click to expand...


I agree all dyno's can read different, its not the number that has me bothered its the shape of the curve, it totally flattens out.

i think tc was kicking in and your number should be quite a bit better, are you sure it was off? A tire spinning doesn't look like that on the dyno

edit: I just looked back at mine and mine is pretty flat across the top also , could just be the software smoothing it out. Where did they hook up the tach lead?
 
WyldCFH said:
Of course there would be differences, that's why I mentioned it.

You can see 185-190 stock pulls on youtube, different people, different dynos in different countries all within a few HP... and to think a ~$4k system with map is not doing any better is disconcerting. Termi may just need to tweek their map some more or maybe @dmavbs needs to reapply the map and callibrate. Could also be a worn tire not gripping the roller well so HP is lost...
Click to expand...

Yes the tire is worn out! They dyno wasn't that accurate because of that. I will try again with a new exhaust and a fresh tyre soon!

And on the Sepang track back straight and straight nobody can really keep up with me so, I don't think the 189 hp is accurate. Will see!!


Thanks anyway @WyldCFH for mentioning it to me
 

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