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MaverickiB said:
Either way, my machine will hopefully be racing in the future, so any geometry improvements it supplies are welcome.
Click to expand...
Not if you don’t know why you are changing something and how those changes effect handling

Somewhere on here there is a long ... suspension tuning thread and the best advice given in it (imo) has to do with not doing stuff others do cuz you read about it here. I think it’s one of Paul’s posts? The author says don’t change ....; go ride your bike just like it sits and address the part of the corner you struggle with the most. Front end for entry rear for exit and weight distribution for center of corner

Obviously if you ain’t a 160 pound jockey you are are gonna wanna get different springs first and pick a starting point for ride height and sag
 
brad8266 said:
Have you bothered to actually have your suspension setup for you yet? If not, you are wasting your money on this other stuff at this point.

If you are trying to get your ride height in the rear up so you can get some quicker turn in, you can do the same thing by dropping the forks in the triple clamps, takes 15 minutes with a single Allen wrench.

Don’t be afraid to mess with your suspension settings, just do a little reading first. Small single change at a time, test, refine.
Click to expand...

I already got my suspension dialed in by a professional over the last few times I went to the track. I was thinking about dropping the forks like you said, but that would also reduce ground clearance and I've heard it can be finicky finding the ideal amount. Raising the rear, from what I've read, is a little more forgiving and doesn't have the downside of reducing ground clearance.
 
MaverickiB said:
I already got my suspension dialed in by a professional over the last few times I went to the track. I was thinking about dropping the forks like you said, but that would also reduce ground clearance and I've heard it can be finicky finding the ideal amount. Raising the rear, from what I've read, is a little more forgiving and doesn't have the downside of reducing ground clearance.
Click to expand...

Ideally you change the forks 2mm at a time until it feels good for you, it isn’t finicky to find, when it’s right for how you ride you will know/feel it. Whoever told you you’re going to lose significant ground clearance making these kinds of small changes is someone you probably don’t want to take advice from ever again.


What is it that you are looking to get in terms of handling? Faster turn in, stability? It’s all a give and take with any suspension change. If you are raising the back with that bracket, you are putting a heavier weight bias on the front, which will inadvertently drop it more under braking load and also fatigue your wrists quicker. You are also shortening your wheelbase, which will create less overall stability.
 
had anyone maxed out wheels base on stock eccentric hub with stock swingarm? and have a measurement?
 
Also if anyone is curious, Febur does not make a mag eccentric unit for V4. I got official word from them
 
KarlKani said:
Also if anyone is curious, Febur does not make a mag eccentric unit for V4. I got official word from them
Click to expand...

That is true. However, I could be wrong, but I'm fairly certain the eccentric hub from one of the 1299s (I think the FE) has the same part number as the V4 eccentric hub. All the other models of 1299 have a different part number. It seems the mag hub for previous models could technically work based on that, but I'm not brave enough to try it and find out if a difference between them exists.

I wonder if Corse uses their own special hub and/or if it only works with Corse swingarms. Might be worth looking in to for those who are inclined and have the money. I'm not even gonna bother asking and waste HSBK or SBUs time, since I'm nowhere near able to afford that kind of premium.
 
KarlKani said:
had anyone maxed out wheels base on stock eccentric hub with stock swingarm? and have a measurement?
Click to expand...
What difference does it make Karl?

I can’t run it there (unless gonna buy new chain every 500 miles) and that it isn’t enough wheelbase anyways

PIEROBON +100! : )
 
MaverickiB said:
That is true. However, I could be wrong, but I'm fairly certain the eccentric hub from one of the 1299s (I think the FE) has the same part number as the V4 eccentric hub. All the other models of 1299 have a different part number. It seems the mag hub for previous models could technically work based on that, but I'm not brave enough to try it and find out if a difference between them exists.

I wonder if Corse uses their own special hub and/or if it only works with Corse swingarms. Might be worth looking in to for those who are inclined and have the money. I'm not even gonna bother asking and waste HSBK or SBUs time, since I'm nowhere near able to afford that kind of premium.
Click to expand...

8c185b1a402d28b146f2ee3fcacc38f4.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Don14R said:
What difference does it make Karl?

I can’t run it there (unless gonna buy new chain every 500 miles) and that it isn’t enough wheelbase anyways

PIEROBON +100! : )
Click to expand...

what difference does it make?
I am trying to figure out what the max possible wheelbase is. I don't know what you are talking about
 
Depends on what gear combo you are running and max number of pins that you can use and still get it adjusted
 
My combo is -4 on the titanium pivots and stock R swingarm, DU466 rear Ohlins and Richard Boyd Veloce shock eye, front mount and short spring setup geometry optimized.
 

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my thought is Pierobon +35mm is too long, I would have to do the opposite of what I am thinking of doing on stocker (adjusting backwards). should be able to get a decent wheelbase increase while compensating for ride height. I suppose I am going to have to buy that GD $900 Ducati ride height tool
 
At least will be able to adjust yer chain a couple times

I don’t think 35mm is enough

But I do not have the electronics that you do and am making way more hp : )

Ha
 
A chain can only be cut to a EVEN number of pins. If you start off at the backend of the swing arm adjustment you will have to remove two pins and replace the master the first time it needs to be adjusted. Removing 2 pins (520 or 525) moves the axle centerline 15.5mm closer to the front sprocket. Decreasing the wheelbase by almost the same amount. Call it 15mm

The 35 not being enough was for me. Not you. I have no idea what you are trying to accomplish. What are you trying to accomplish?

The electronics thing is self explanatory. My bike is 2014. No wheelie or launch control. TC but it sucks compared to yers.The last part about the hp I was just kidding man. That’s why I put “Ha”
 
Managed to fandangle everything into working and had a successful shakedown run. Gonna swap out the brake line in the very near future due to how close it is to the wheel. No likey.
20201231_175427_copy_1725x1701.jpg
 

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