F to P oh what a relief it is!!!!!!!!!!!

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DId the first 600 miles in Flat position for the rear shock, liked to beat me to death, very twitchy over bumps and such. Rode up to the 600 mile service today and had them change to P, nite and day difference in ride quality and much more road friendly as I've got vicious bumps on some of my roads
 
Can you explain the flat and progressive to me? :confused: Is flat for the track and progressive street? I'm taking mine in for her first service next weekend and if this is they way to go I would like to have them change it.
 
Found a good explaination on another thread... Sounds like P is the way to go for street.
 
after 600 miles in Flat I'm glad I made the change, over 1k miles now and much better quality ride.

The P is actually designed with carrying passengers in mind, but it seems to have the added bonus of making road surface response a bit less harsh.


Can you explain the flat and progressive to me? :confused: Is flat for the track and progressive street? I'm taking mine in for her first service next weekend and if this is they way to go I would like to have them change it.
 
Copied from an earlier post of mine:

.... Snip.....
I understand where you are coming from with this, but you can't think of it as stiffer v/s softer when were talking a change in the linkage effecting a change in the perceived spring rate.

Statement to consider: All sportbike shocks have linear rate springs fitted as standard. Considering the loads and the short length of the spring on a rear shock, tuning a progressive rate spring is difficult, costly and would further distance road bikes from their track brethren, so not really an option. Therefore, all sportbikes, unless purpose built for the track, have a progressive rate linkage and a linear rate spring on the shock.


Think of it this way:

Having the option on the Panigale, with the linkage is set to the linear (Flat) position, the linkage acts directly on the spring. This is oversimplifying it a bit, but with a linear rate, if it takes 50Kg to compress the suspension 1 inch, it will take ~ another 50Kg to compress the suspension a further 1 inch and so on till the you reach the limit of available travel. This is fine if you're on a smooth track, but on the roads, bumps can cause the rear compress much further, which soaks up the bump, but then it will also have to rebound further, which can cause one to feel like they are being slapped in the bum with the seat. You might think "well just adjust the rebound and compression to compensate" however, unless you're at a comparatively smooth track, this is very difficult to get right for the road as every road and bump is different. I've seen more than one person trying to tune a linear rate setup for the road which resulted in suspension packing - where the suspension never fully rebounds while going over washboard roads, which can effectively lock out you suspension making it feel board stiff over rough sections. Another problem is that folks with flat rates, being familiar with progressive rates all their riding lives, usually end up setting the preload spring rate harder to reduce the new found suspension travel and rebound effect.


With an standard progressive rate suspension, as the rear compresses, the spring rate rises and thus the spring effectively feels as if it has more resistance as it compresses. Oversimplifying again, if it takes 50Kg to compress the suspension 1 inch, it may take another 65 Kg to compress the suspension 2 inches and another 80Kg to compress the suspension 3 inches and another 110Kg to compress the suspension 4 inches. In these examples with a linear rate setting, it would only take ~200Kg of force to compress the suspension 4 inches where with the progressive rising rate setting, it would take ~ 315Kg of force to compress the suspension the same 4 inches.


Even considering setting proper sag, usually with a progressive linkage setup, you can start with a slightly "softer" initial spring load than you can with a flat rate as you have the rising rate of resistance as the suspension compresses to keep things in check.

However, I think the most important and final thought to consider is: Most of us that ride roads, even if we do a lot of track riding, are more familiar with the reaction of a progressive linkage setup and will therefore inevitably feel more at home with a progressive setting out of the box. I try to spilt my riding into 50/50 track and road, though the fist modification I performed on my Panigale was to change the linkage from Flat to the familiar progressive setting.
 
DR, thanks for re-posting that, I read it when you originally posted it and great info!

It would seem for someone like me where I'll be doing track days from time to time but mostly street riding, the P is probably the ideal way to go.

I've been thinking about springs, I'm tall and skinny and weigh about 165 pounds, my SF has too heave of a spring for me, I'm thinking same with this.

Doing a track day at barber next saturday. Going to have Mike "thermosman" go over my suspension setup, he worked wonders on my rsv4 and sf
 
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DId the first 600 miles in Flat position for the rear shock, liked to beat me to death, very twitchy over bumps and such. Rode up to the 600 mile service today and had them change to P, nite and day difference in ride quality and much more road friendly as I've got vicious bumps on some of my roads

Thanks Z for telling your experience and for replying about the 2up setup in another blog. I'm going to try the progressive setup. Sounds exactly what I'm looking for. Aggressive enough on the street and soft enough in the same. And when it's time for the track I'll shift the setting back to flat to get the best out of the suspension.
 
DR, thanks for re-posting that, I read it when you originally posted it and great info!

It would seem for someone like me where I'll be doing track days from time to time but mostly street riding, the P is probably the ideal way to go.

I've been thinking about springs, I'm tall and skinny and weigh about 165 pounds, my SF has too heave of a spring for me, I'm thinking same with this.

Doing a track day at barber next saturday. Going to have Mike "thermosman" go over my suspension setup, he worked wonders on my rsv4 and sf

zvez - Yes in your case, weighing in at ~165, you should go with a lighter spring.
 
DId the first 600 miles in Flat position for the rear shock, liked to beat me to death, very twitchy over bumps and such. Rode up to the 600 mile service today and had them change to P, nite and day difference in ride quality and much more road friendly as I've got vicious bumps on some of my roads

I have mine on P as well and absolutely love it. I often wondered if the magazine editors that tested the bike in the most recent shootout had known to switch it, the outcome would have been dramatically different. The handling characteristics they described in the article seem to reflect what others have said with it in the Flat(linear) setting. Twitchy on exit, over sprung feeling, very harsh. The P setting is exactly what I expected is a pleasure to ride. The handling is predictable and rear of the bike is compliant.

Definitely a recommended change for those that haven't done so already. Track or street IMO. I feel if I was to leave it in the F for the track I would need a slightly softer spring but the bike works great for me, so I won't be changing it back.
 
Very well put Dr. Sapp. There is a big misinterpretation on this subject and this was a good explanation .
 

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