Failure of hydraulic clutch

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I posted earlier that my dealer had submitted a claim regarding this issue. I got a call yesterday that my new clutch master is awaiting installation at my earliest convenience. I doubt it'll fix it, but at least Ducati is becoming more aware of the problem.
 
Cloner said:
I posted earlier that my dealer had submitted a claim regarding this issue. I got a call yesterday that my new clutch master is awaiting installation at my earliest convenience. I doubt it'll fix it, but at least Ducati is becoming more aware of the problem.
Click to expand...

-- nice.....please post your updated findings.....
 
Also had my clutch fail on me on a 400km ride. left the bike parked under the sun for 3 hours, again another heat issue. factory clutch fluid became dark colored and the clutch when pulled had squeeking metal like sound and resistive feel. Changed to a higher grade brake/clutch fluid after bleeding the system and problem was gone. crossed fingers:D
 
The dark-colored clutch fluid has been a characteristic of Ducati hydraulic clutch systems since the 80s, so that's nothing new. The metallic sound is another issue altogether.

Hope your fix works, mjbmd.
 
Same clutch issue here. I bled the slave first with no improvement and then the master and all was good. It was 1800mi before this became an issue.
 
Guys I don't believe it's fair to call it clutch failure if a simple fluid replacement rectifies the issue.

My clutch became spongey at about 4000 klm which is due to fluid degradation which is quite normal with a hydroscopic fluid. Much worse in humid climates.

Simply bled my brakes and clutch. all much better for the exercise which you can do at home in 45 min as a novice.
 
Gavin D said:
Guys I don't believe it's fair to call it clutch failure if a simple fluid replacement rectifies the issue.

My clutch became spongey at about 4000 klm which is due to fluid degradation which is quite normal with a hydroscopic fluid. Much worse in humid climates.

Simply bled my brakes and clutch. all much better for the exercise which you can do at home in 45 min as a novice.
Click to expand...

There's an endemic failure of the clutch due to air/contamination of the fluid...I think its a common enough problem to call it a failure.... Something is awry somewhere...:cool:
 
I changed the brand of my clutch / brake fluid when I bled the system to Penrite racing which has a higher boiling point than the Shell product which is recommended by the factory.

The Penrite has a boiling point of 310 deg C so It will be interesting how long this fluid lasts compared to the Shell.

Stw if you lived a little closer I would wager a few cold beers that I might be right on this one but I will let you know how it fairs as time goes on. :)
 
Gavin D said:
I changed the brand of my clutch / brake fluid when I bled the system to Penrite racing which has a higher boiling point than the Shell product which is recommended by the factory.

The Penrite has a boiling point of 310 deg C so It will be interesting how long this fluid lasts compared to the Shell.

Stw if you lived a little closer I would wager a few cold beers that I might be right on this one but I will let you know how it fairs as time goes on. :)
Click to expand...

No problem... a permanent fix would sure be nice;)...
 
Styler said:
Mini bleed wrench, 11 mm: Mini Bleeder, 11mm | Motion Pro
Click to expand...

Got this last week and gave it a trial use on the bike in the garage even though I did not need to bleed it yet (the bike has not gone anywhere, I've been riding my Triumph).
Anyway, it is wicked light and very effective. A must have for anybody dealing with the same issues I have experienced with the MC of the clutch.
 
I went for a good ride on Saturday - 400+ miles of Ozark mountain back roads. Anyway, during that time, I had to bleed the MC twice. So, based on the milage of my previous ride, I was getting about 250 miles of normal operation until it failed.
So, here is what I know:
  1. Changing the master and the slave cylinder does not fix the issue (mine were replaced under warranty the first time and sent to Ducati for inspection).
  2. Using expensive, heat-resistent high-temp fluid does not fix the issue.
  3. If you bleed both the master and the slave cylinder, replacing all of the fluid in the process, you get about 1,000 miles before it goes again.
  4. If you bleed just the MC, you get about 250 miles before failure.


There is usually air bubbles in the system whenever you bleed it and so air must be getting in somewhere.
 
Styler said:
I went for a good ride on Saturday - 400+ miles of Ozark mountain back roads. Anyway, during that time, I had to bleed the MC twice. So, based on the milage of my previous ride, I was getting about 250 miles of normal operation until it failed.
So, here is what I know:
  1. Changing the master and the slave cylinder does not fix the issue (mine were replaced under warranty the first time and sent to Ducati for inspection).
  2. Using expensive, heat-resistent high-temp fluid does not fix the issue.
  3. If you bleed both the master and the slave cylinder, replacing all of the fluid in the process, you get about 1,000 miles before it goes again.
  4. If you bleed just the MC, you get about 250 miles before failure.


There is usually air bubbles in the system whenever you bleed it and so air must be getting in somewhere.
Click to expand...

-- didn't we discuss this back thru posts 1 to 7 :)

...it was a known issue for many owners, from as far back as early 916 days (1994/5) - unbelievable how it has never been resolved.....

-- theories abound as to the cause....nobody has ever produced a definitive answer - i carry an 11mm open end wrench and a small shop rag...i've left the house many times with a limp lever and was always glad i had the wrench with me, so i didn't have to run back home to take care of it - motion-pro just started selling a mini bleed wrench that looks small enough to be carried easily and it has a nifty 1 way valve that prevents fluid from going all over the place while bleeding
 
RD16RR said:
-- didn't we discuss this back thru posts 1 to 7 :)

i carry an 11mm open end wrench and a small shop rag...i've left the house many times with a limp lever and was always glad i had the wrench with me, so i didn't have to run back home to take care of it - motion-pro just started selling a mini bleed wrench that looks small enough to be carried easily and it has a nifty 1 way valve that prevents fluid from going all over the place while bleeding
Click to expand...

Indeed we did, and I now carry a rag, motion-pro bleeder wrench thingy (see link earlier in this thread) and fluid. The new information in my post above is that if you just bleed the MC, you are only going to get about 1/4 of the distance out of the system compared to bleeding both the master and the slave cylinder. So... since bubbles rise in the fluid, their is a strong indication that it is the slave, or something else below the MC that is letting the air in. Perhaps it is time to try and replace the OEM equipment with something else? :confused:
BUT this still sucks beyond belief. Why cannot Ducati produce a bike with a working hydraulic clutch? :( Why must I carry fluid wrenches, etc for day trips? :(
It is totally unacceptable.:mad:
If this issue and the dash-ECU failure were fixed, this would be an awesome motorcycle.
 
Styler said:
Indeed we did, and I now carry a rag, motion-pro bleeder wrench thingy (see link earlier in this thread) and fluid. The new information in my post above is that if you just bleed the MC, you are only going to get about 1/4 of the distance out of the system compared to bleeding both the master and the slave cylinder. So... since bubbles rise in the fluid, their is a strong indication that it is the slave, or something else below the MC that is letting the air in. Perhaps it is time to try and replace the OEM equipment with something else? :confused:
BUT this still sucks beyond belief. Why cannot Ducati produce a bike with a working hydraulic clutch? :( Why must I carry fluid wrenches, etc for day trips? :(
It is totally unacceptable.:mad:
If this issue and the dash-ECU failure were fixed, this would be an awesome motorcycle.
Click to expand...

-- while it sucks, i guess i have "written it off" as part and parcel for the brand - there have been all kinds of attempts at a fix for it:

-replace slave (sc)
-replace master
-wrap the clutch line
-pin hole in rubber boot on lever at mc to stop supposed air being pushed or sucked into system
-different fluids
-stop the spinning rod in sc to prevent fluid boil
-spacer plate for sc to allow more air to cool things off (prevent fluid boil)
-new o-ring on sc to stop its deterioration there-by contaminating fluid (it was thought by someone that the blackness was the breakdown of the o-ring)

-- seriously, i have "heard it all".....i hoped all along there would be a simple solution, or Ducati would have done something......evidently not - hopefully something will eventually come of it, but in the mean time an 11mm seems to answer it

-- until something truly definitive comes along, the new mini bleeder from motion-pro is something to have fun with, so.....i've given up :)
 
My Mc is dead at the moment, can't shift at all. Guess I'll try to bleed it out, had to ride my 848 to work today instead.
 
Would this issue be related to why I have to check my clutch lever/pull before every ride and usually turn the adjustment screw counter clockwise on the clutch lever?

I am now almost all the way out at 1600 miles and the friction zone is about halfway from the clutch lever to the handlebar.

Please help!
 
Drewcati said:
Would this issue be related to why I have to check my clutch lever/pull before every ride and usually turn the adjustment screw counter clockwise on the clutch lever?

I am now almost all the way out at 1600 miles and the friction zone is about halfway from the clutch lever to the handlebar.

Please help!
Click to expand...

....yes.....bleed the clutch from the the bleeder at the lever - i do it before each ride - you will then be able to leave the lever adjusted as you prefer

-- after a few bleedings (6?) however, the rubber gasket inside the reservoir starts to get sucked down...fix that by opening the lid of the reservoir (you should probably diaper up the area before you open it) peel up the rubber gasket with your finger nail, and top off the fluid

-- in case you haven't done it, it is a 1,2,3 simple thing to do......you sound like you might need to read this:

1 - get a paper towel and 11mm open end wrench

2 - place the paper towel over the bleed nipple and then place the wrench over the paper towel and on to the bleeder, so the wrench holds the paper towel on the bleeder

3 - pull the clutch lever back to hand grip, and open the bleeder valve in a quick loosen/tighten move, as soon as you hear or see the fluid escape, lock/tighten the bleeder closed - you can now release the clutch lever and you should be good to go - repeat as required, but 1 or 2 times is all you should need

-- since the paper towel should have captured the escaping fluid, you should be ok....but definitely wipe/rinse off any that may have gotten on the paint, or anywhere.....then take a small rolled up corner of the paper towel and soak up any left inside the bleeder valve itself, to prevent it escaping after you put the rubber nipple back on
 
Last edited:
Ah THANK YOU!

I will purchase the Motion Pro 11mm bleeder kit and keep your instructions.

I'm glad I didn't buy adjustable levers to try and solve this problem.

What an annoyance but now I will learn how to bleed my clutch.

Thanks so much RD16RR

RD16RR said:
....yes.....bleed the clutch from the the bleeder at the lever - i do it before each ride - you will then be able to leave the lever adjusted as you prefer

-- after a few bleedings (6?) however, the rubber gasket inside the reservoir starts to get sucked down...fix that by opening the lid of the reservoir (you should probably diaper up the area before you open it) peel up the rubber gasket with your finger nail, and top off the fluid

-- in case you haven't done it, it is a 1,2,3 simple thing to do......you sound like you might need to read this:

1 - get a paper towel and 11mm open end wrench

2 - place the paper towel over the bleed nipple and then place the wrench over the paper towel and on to the bleeder, so the wrench holds the paper towel on the bleeder

3 - pull the clutch lever back to hand grip, and open the bleeder valve in a quick loosen/tighten move, as soon as you hear or see the fluid escape, lock/tighten the bleeder closed - you can now release the clutch lever and you should be good to go - repeat as required, but 1 or 2 times is all you should need

-- since the paper towel should have captured the escaping fluid, you should be ok....but definitely wipe/rinse off any that may have gotten on the paint, or anywhere.....then take a small rolled up corner of the paper towel and soak up any left inside the bleeder valve itself, to prevent it escaping after you put the rubber nipple back on
Click to expand...
 

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