Forged wheels: Mag or Alu?

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990Glen said:
Pick up a used set of S wheels at a decent price and spend the rest on rubber or tracktime.
They are a pretty decent wheel weight wise, though the 1098 R wheels were lighter.

FWIW, I have a set of the Oz Gass and while they are a bit lighter on the scales, its not
really noticeable on the track. I like their look, but the bang for buck was minimal over
the OEM S/R wheels.
Click to expand...

I've been keeping an eye out for a pair but nothing is coming up in the Australian market.

The S wheels are meant to be quite a good wheel from what i've heard.
 
JoshDuc said:
I've been keeping an eye out for a pair but nothing is coming up in the Australian market.

The S wheels are meant to be quite a good wheel from what i've heard.
Click to expand...

Those Oz Gass wheels are the ones I have the S wheels are good
 
wilkson said:
I swap between my base wheels my Oz wheels and whatever else I have depending on what rubber is fitted . Never really feel too much difference between any of them to be honest . I like the look of my Oz wheels best .
Click to expand...

Thats interesting to hear! I thought i'd be saving quite a bit on unsprung weight from the base wheels and in return, feel quite a difference.

A good little a video from the boys at 44teeth. They netted a 1.2 second per lap advantage from cast to lightweight carbon wheels on an r1.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbo8oHZj93g
 
jyli19 said:
OZ RS-A Gass wheels

newer design with better weight distribution, and slight lighter, only a bit pricier than Piega, but i think it's worth it.
Click to expand...

I know this sounds stupid, but i just don't love the look of the machined lip on the RS-A Gass rim. LOVE the piega (R) and cattiva.

Is the Piega R a worthy candidate? what makes them not road worthy?
 
JoshDuc said:
Thats interesting to hear! I thought i'd be saving quite a bit on unsprung weight from the base wheels and in return, feel quite a difference.

A good little a video from the boys at 44teeth. They netted a 1.2 second per lap advantage from cast to lightweight carbon wheels on an r1.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbo8oHZj93g
Click to expand...

That all depends on where you are on the scale of lap times I guess the quicker you go the harder it is to find a half a second or a tenth of a second .If I can improve my times buy 1.2 seconds by just fitting lighter wheels let me have them .
Placebo effect are my thoughts . Don't get me wrong I like lighter wheels but the base wheels are not exactly anchors either .
Coaching and track times will improve your times more so over buying lighter wheels if that's your goal but that is just sensible talk if you want light wheels buy the ones you like the look of .
 
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I find that the weight reduction of the front wheel is noticeable but not so much the rear. I think the OEM S wheels are a good compromise for weight cost etc. if everything is optimized reducing the weight further would improve performance, but most of us don’t have our bikes set up that well for many reasons. Ultimately it’s gonna book down to what you want. If it is just for cosmetics pick a style you like.
 
I don't know what the difference is between Piega vs Piega R.

There are forged AL wheel, i doubt you'll notice difference between them. Pick the one you like. They will all give you a boost from Base Die Cast wheels.

The swapped my base rims for a set off an 1199R, the wheels like lighter, the spacer is aluminum, not steel, even the rotor bolts are lighter.
 
JoshDuc said:
Hi guys,

Wanting to get everyone's thoughts on which direction i should go with a set of wheels for my base 1299.

I'm looking at the OZ racing Cattiva (mag) or the Piega (aluminium) forged wheels. Love the look of them plus hopefully a noticeable performance gain at the track.

The bike is used both on the road for some weekend runs and at the track in fast group. Doing as many track days as i can at the moment, totally hooked.

Wanting to know if its worth spending the extra money on the magnesium and if there is any durability issues.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

I also have the base 1299. Personally if I were spending the money which I will soon. I would buy a better rear suspension and a better front suspension (either a drop in suspension in the front or a full ohlins front end). Or upgrade my master cylinder and clutch cylinder along with better brakes and rrotors. At least thats my opinion
 
As was stated earlier light wheels are one of the best handling/performance upgrades available. The standard suspension is not too bad if setup for your weight and conditions so after sorting that bung on some cool wheels and good to go.
 
I would love to know if anyone is outriding a standard Ducati Superbike especially from the last five years . If so you have my respect .
Other than standard Sachs rear shock they are ....
 
wilkson said:
I would love to know if anyone is outriding a standard Ducati Superbike especially from the last five years . If so you have my respect .
Other than standard Sachs rear shock they are ....
Click to expand...

Thanks mate,
Appreciate the respect factor :)))

But yeah the Sachs is a little slow on the uptake, I had a kit put into the 1199 shock I had on my 959 and was was good until I went silly spending money, that I really didn't need to.
 
able duc said:
Thanks mate,
Appreciate the respect factor :)))

But yeah the Sachs is a little slow on the uptake, I had a kit put into the 1199 shock I had on my 959 and was was good until I went silly spending money, that I really didn't need to.
Click to expand...

Easy fella wasn't directed at you . Just a general comment based on must have upgraded .
 
I agree that most owners will not be able to max out a standard Panigale to full potential.

But if you spend a little money to get yourself a little more comfortable and a little more confident, therefore increasing max utilization from 50% to 60%.

Anything that gets more smiles and less sore ... is money well spend.
 
Funny you guys mention the rear shock, i'm eyeing off the Ohlins GP TX shock (DU466).

The rear end gets a little busy and wallows out of turns. TC on 3.
 
JoshDuc said:
Funny you guys mention the rear shock, i'm eyeing off the Ohlins GP TX shock (DU466).

The rear end gets a little busy and wallows out of turns. TC on 3.
Click to expand...

I just swapped out the rear on the V4 to a Ohlins GP TTX DU 468 made the world of difference was pushing out too wide on exits . Got this thing dialled in now .
 
wilkson said:
I just swapped out the rear on the V4 to a Ohlins GP TTX DU 468 made the world of difference was pushing out too wide on exits . Got this thing dialled in now .
Click to expand...

interesting, i just spoke to one of the suspension guys from SMSP and he said my setup would definitely be out of balance front/back.

So what order do i do things? Shock then wheels or wheels then shock? Or... both at the same time. Doesnt the wheels influence the suspension settings?
 
JoshDuc said:
interesting, i just spoke to one of the suspension guys from SMSP and he said my setup would definitely be out of balance front/back.

So what order do i do things? Shock then wheels or wheels then shock? Or... both at the same time. Doesnt the wheels influence the suspension settings?
Click to expand...

The wheels will make FA difference to your suspension setting . Your choice I would go for rear shock first .What did he mean by out of balance ?
Get a new rear shock set the bike up with some base sags and see what it does and go from there .
 
wilkson said:
The wheels will make FA difference to your suspension setting . Your choice I would go for rear shock first .What did he mean by out of balance ?
Get a new rear shock set the bike up with some base sags and see what it does and go from there .
Click to expand...

Perfect, thanks mate, appreciated!

The front and rear will be out of whack after installing my FGRT forks, words from one of ASBK's best. It feels like i have to baby it a little at the track otherwise she gets a little buck wild. I'm mid-pack fast group.

re wheels: I heard someone say that lighter wheels stuff around with suspension settings. Maybe just a wives tale.

I'll go the shock route first. Always one for a properly setup machine for weight and skill.
 
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JoshDuc said:
Perfect, thanks mate, appreciated!

The front and rear will be out of whack after installing my FGRT forks, words from one of ASBK's best. It feels like i have to baby it a little at the track otherwise she gets a little buck wild. I'm mid-pack fast group.

re wheels: I heard someone say that lighter wheels stuff around with suspension settings. Maybe just a wives tale.

I'll go the shock route first. Always one for a properly setup machine for weight and skill.
Click to expand...

Got it . I did not realise you were swapping out your forks
 

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