Forged wheels: Mag or Alu?

wilkson said:

Got it . I did not realise you were swapping out your forks

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my mistake, i thought i already mentioned that i had installed some ohlins forks somewhere in this thread but looks like i havent. I found a good buy on a pair that was too good to turn down.

Magnesium is defiantly the better wheel, but i very much doubt if you would ever notice the benefit on the road. I have Marchesini Magnesium Wheels on all my bikes & on the road it doesn't make me go any faster neither does it make any of my bikes get head shakes. If you can afford magnesium go for it or what about carbon fiber

MB Duc said:

I would keep the stock wheels. Light weight wheels can cause headshakes and that's not something the bike needs more of.

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First time I have heard that.

wilkson said:

That all depends on where you are on the scale of lap times I guess the quicker you go the harder it is to find a half a second or a tenth of a second .If I can improve my times buy 1.2 seconds by just fitting lighter wheels let me have them .
Placebo effect are my thoughts . Don't get me wrong I like lighter wheels but the base wheels are not exactly anchors either .
Coaching and track times will improve your times more so over buying lighter wheels if that's your goal but that is just sensible talk if you want light wheels buy the ones you like the look of .

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Thats good advice. Buy what makes you happy.

JoshDuc said:

Perfect, thanks mate, appreciated!

The front and rear will be out of whack after installing my FGRT forks, words from one of ASBK's best. It feels like i have to baby it a little at the track otherwise she gets a little buck wild. I'm mid-pack fast group.

re wheels: I heard someone say that lighter wheels stuff around with suspension settings. Maybe just a wives tale.

I'll go the shock route first. Always one for a properly setup machine for weight and skill.

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There is not that much difference in the weight of S Wheels and the mag wheels. I agree with Wilks it will not make any diff to the suspension its too small a change. I think the out of balance bit will be true if the level of shock "quality" for want of a better term is not matched, due to damping and spring rates. Try going to Shock Treatment out at Walacia and see Terry he will set sag for you and is the best man for advice on Ohlins.

bradp51 said:

There is not that much difference in the weight of S Wheels and the mag wheels. I agree with Wilks it will not make any diff to the suspension its too small a change. I think the out of balance bit will be true if the level of shock "quality" for want of a better term is not matched, due to damping and spring rates. Try going to Shock Treatment out at Walacia and see Terry he will set sag for you and is the best man for advice on Ohlins.

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Thanks mate,

Ordered a TTX shock through Terry, just waiting for it to turn up. I'm keeping my eye out for some second hand forgies.

Magnesium all the way,the bike feels much more nimble & flickable. The difference is huge.

Nothing with wrong with the S wheels, and for the money best bang for the buck out there.. Personally if I am spending money BST or rotobox, will be the wheel of choice for performance, and they don't look to bad either.

wheels

I would have to say my favourite are the 6 spoke alloy from OZ Racing.
To me they just look like a real race wheel.

I'm still wondering whether anybody ever bought those GaleSpeed wheels that came out 2013?!?

I think they were unbelievably expensive were they not?
Nice though.

able duc said:

I would have to say my favourite are the 6 spoke alloy from OZ Racing.
To me they just look like a real race wheel.

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I might be wrong, but they look to be the mag wheels to me. The 6 spoke alloys have the machined rim lip.

JoshDuc said:

I might be wrong, but they look to be the mag wheels to me. The 6 spoke alloys have the machined rim lip.

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They are both a race only alloy set of wheels, they have race team contacts so can get them. I have a set as well.

I have had both magnesium Oz wheels and forged alloy OZ wheels . I was unbelievably quick on the magnesium.

wilkson said:

I have had both magnesium Oz wheels and forged alloy OZ wheels . I was unbelievably quick on the magnesium.

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hahaha I don't think so.

oh by the way thanks for the rotor measurements.

there is one benefit of heavier wheels - street riding in heavy rain and/or very windy conditions. if you're the sort that will take their Panigale out in any weather barring a blizzard, there is stability in the stronger gyroscopic rotation of heavier wheels. when other bikers have pulled over under overpasses but you stubbornly keep on going, that gyroscopic rotation makes a difference.

Note that the crankshaft also produces gyroscopic forces. In the worst rain I've ever ridden in, running my 1299S w/Supercorsas, I found a sweet spot at 90-ish mph in 5th gear, or 80 in 4th where hydroplaing was a risk. Every time I shifted into 6th I felt the bike destabilize noticeably as the RPMs dropped.

You won't get that with a backwards rotating crank (like on the V-4), but honestly, other than my stupid ..., who rides their Panigales like touring bikes in monsoon weather?

I was fully planning on buying BST wheels for my bike. Then at a tire change I picked up the rear forged Marchesini without the tire...and decided to save my money. the stock forged wheels are surprisingly light. Pick one up, and as you hold this wheel that you can easily lift and hold with one finger, the desire to spend $4000 on wheels diminishes. $4k buys a lot of titanium and carbon fiber bits

Magnesium (as well as aluminum) are aniodic metals. They do corrode much easier than metals such as stainless steel or nickel HOWEVER, they aren't going to just flake away if they get a scratch. I am a helicopter mechanic by trade. I deal with aluminum, magnesium, stainless steel, nickel, Inconel, Hastelloy, brass, copper, lead, and all sorts of annodic and cathodic metals every day.

Corrosion is more of an issue with magnesium when it is subjected to either improper heat treatment (not likely an issue for you) or being mated to a cathodic dissimilar metal while in the presence of an electrolyte (such as water). Just being exposed to the atmosphere is almost a non-issue unless you live in a corrosive environment. (see: near the ocean) Where you are most likely to encounter her corrosion on magnesium wheels is where the stainless steel valve stem mates to the wheel or where the bearing outer race is attached to the wheel. (see: dissimilar metal corrosion) If everything is properly assembled and maintained, you shouldn't have any issues with magnesium wheels. They aren't refined uranium for chrissakes. Not unstable like radioactive materials. Use them without fear.