fork rebuilding

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hey guys i just had a small question, im about to service the forks on my 1299s. the oil hasnt been changed since i bought it. i was curious on how long front fork bushings usually last?

was debating if i should go ahead and replace them while im in there.

also, where is a good place to order bushings from online?


thanks
 
Is there really a point in NOT replacing them if you have the forks off and are servicing them?
 
hey guys i just had a small question, im about to service the forks on my 1299s. the oil hasnt been changed since i bought it. i was curious on how long front fork bushings usually last?

was debating if i should go ahead and replace them while im in there.

also, where is a good place to order bushings from online?


thanks

Lifespan depends on usage, but once you're in there, you'll notice the bushings are grey. if the grey is uniform and no brass coloring is showing through then they don't need to be replaced. That's a tidbit someone much more knowledgable than me imparted.
 
i havent started on them yet. im in the process of checking the valves right now and then ill be doing them.


yeahhh but ducati wants like 240 for just the bushings 😭

yep...240 + 280 for the other partts in the kit...+ 400 labor to my tuner to get mine fully rebuilt at 22K miles.

JAG
 
I didn't find anything on race tech's website for your bike, but K-tech had some bushings and fork seals. Probably a lot cheaper than getting OEM.
 
Yamaha R1 service manual was a real help trying to figure out how to work on the Ohlins electronic forks


Hello---how close does the R1M Ohlins fork correspond to my 1199S Panigale Ohlins front fork design and specs? I've downloaded this PDF and am going over it--

I'm in the midst of servicing my 2012 1199S Ohlins forks-I'm replacing seals/caps and fluid (left seal is leaking)--

I need to know some procedural things for these forks. I believe they are NIX 30 cartridges if I'm not mistaken. I've done a fairly extensive search for the 1199S Ohlins fork service procedure and have come up short.

Would welcome any references to support material at this point.
Thank you,
Greg
 
Hey Greg, the R1M service manual was pretty spot on when working on my 22 PV4S with NPX fork. The basic principles of Ohlins USD forks haven’t changed much in the 10 yrs. In my opinion, the things that they change are in the cartridge damper systems. Just be aware that you’ll need some pretty specialized tools. Changing the springs was simple but still needed a Melotti fork cap tool and some thin cone wrenches. The bushings and lower seal will needs a few more extra tools like bushing driver, tube straps, oil measuring stuff, etc. I take my forks to a shop (Kyle Racing) for overhauls because the overhead on tools outweighs and they just have more experience with them and can do the job quickly.
 
I really appreciate the info.

Actually I’ve got all the tools and supplies ready to go for this fork service. I’ve got the cap tool, fork spring compressor, heavier springs for my weight, fluid level suction tool, seal driver, fork oil, pivot vise, etc. Bike has front tire off, using PitBull headlift.

I’m a very hands-on owner and do most of my maintenance and service on my 2012 1199S-and my 2015 R1 base. Those forks are next by the way!

The main things I need to know are:

A) the correct air gap, and is that with no spring in place? I’m reading 150 or 155mm from top of fork tube to top of fluid. At what exact stage do I add the fluid?

B) where can I expect to remove fluid? Lower stanchion only or also in the inner cartridge? I plan on measuring what I remove from each leg.

C) would be nice to have an exploded view of my exact fork internals- my bike has NIX30 internals, yes? The Ohlins website document page lists other model numbers for their hardware. Pretty sure my forks at FG9250 but a search on the Ohlins site does not list that model.

I’ve watched YouTube videos on several Ohlins forks being serviced, but still some questions remain.

Many thanks!
Greg
 
Measuring the oil can be done before and after overhauls and doesn’t matter if it’s with or without spring as long as you’re consistent when measuring. The 23 V4R service manual that’s been circulating mentions measuring with the spring and preload tube. I’d assume similar with the NIX30. But again just get it back to the same specs as before you overhauled it.

Do you plan on running Ohlins fork oil or Shell Donax?
 
My left fork is leaking so it'll have the incorrect fluid level. The right side should be accurate. Nonetheless, lots of procedures cal for adding 500ml of fluid , the sucking out the excess above a certain mark from top, like 150-155mm. This is the number I need. I want to know the original Ohlins OE recommended fluid volume specs for these forks. So, because I'm seeking a recommended fluid level spec, I need to know if that spec is with or without spring (or other internals) in place.

TY
Greg
 
This how 4 years old oil look
 

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