fork rebuilding

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greggiacona said:
Turns out when I put my fork spring compressor on the cartridge like the one in the video above and draw down the spring, it does not release the upper cap. The lower silver bracket should separate from the upper cylindrical cap but it’s not.

I’ve compressed the spring all the way down to top of the gold outer tube. It brings the entire upper assembly with it:-(

I do see a slight separation at the seam so I know they are indeed not connected.

If I were able to draw the spring down more, perhaps it may pull that silver lower retaining cap down, but I’m out of room because I’m at the top of the outer tube.

So- can I just put my 19mm wrench on that lower nut and hold the top nut on the cap and break loose? Without compressing the spring?

I may need a specific tool to get to that 19mm lower nut.

Greg
Click to expand...

You should be able to hold the bottom nut and unscrew it from the fork cap. I have an old pair of replaceable jaw vicegrips, I put the long smooth jaws in to use on the lower nut. Make sure the damping needles are backed all the way out before you disassemble.
 
Thank you, Baggerman, my forks are electronic, so I backed everything off from the Ducati dash before I removed the forks from the bike. So everything should be fully released. And of course the spring preload is totally released.

so I can just grip that lower 19 mm nut with some long channel locks, and hold the top top preload nut and loosen? The lower silver circular cap just below the nut that the upper spring rests on should spin, correct?

I’ll give that a shot, thank you.
 
greggiacona said:
Thank you, Baggerman, my forks are electronic, so I backed everything off from the Ducati dash before I removed the forks from the bike. So everything should be fully released. And of course the spring preload is totally released.

so I can just grip that lower 19 mm nut with some long channel locks, and hold the top top preload nut and loosen? The lower silver circular cap just below the nut that the upper spring rests on should spin, correct?

I’ll give that a shot, thank you.
Click to expand...

Can you take a photo?
 
BTW I've never had to use a spring compressor with these. Just take separate the fork nut from the cartridge shaft and take them apart. To take the cartridges out you need the long ohlins cartridge socket. If you're just changing seals leave it in there. The bushings are coated with teflon (gray on the ones I've serviced). If they look uniform and unscarred showing no brass leave them alone. I've used the latest ohlins seal and have had good luck. Careful do not scar the cartridge shaft as in runs in a bush in the top of the cartridge.
 
I'm thinking you can't get channel locks in there. If you can't get to the nut use a couple of pieces of appropriate sized bar stock (long enough so they'll stick out both sides) and clamp the ends from each side to hold the lower nut. It's a bit of a PITA.
 
Thanks for that wrench pic, SD, my 19mm wrench will already reach that nut. My main concern is what happens to that upper spring perch as I turn that nut, while holding the 32mm top nut? And will spring pressure send that perch flying off once the nut/top cap is removed? Here’s some pics:
 

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Hate to be so helpless but-

The 19mm nut won’t spin off because the central threaded rod rotates with it. Even with the spring compressor holding down the spring to relieve pressure on the nut.

My deep-well 19mm socket fits perfectly over the nut. Just need to find a way to stop the rod from rotating with it.

Didn’t I see a rod holding Ohlins tool that will be necessary for this job?
 
greggiacona said:
Hate to be so helpless but-

The 19mm nut won’t spin off because the central threaded rod rotates with it. Even with the spring compressor holding down the spring to relieve pressure on the nut.

My deep-well 19mm socket fits perfectly over the nut. Just need to find a way to stop the rod from rotating with it.

Didn’t I see a rod holding Ohlins tool that will be necessary for this job?
Click to expand...

There may be some flats hidden on the damping rod. You may have to press down on the spring retainer. If not, you could tighten 2 nuts together at the top of the thread to initially break the 19 mm nut
 
No flats, soft jaw the rod above its travel. When you reassemble make sure the nut is locked upwards an eighth turn or so onto the top nut so you don't have to deal with this again. The seals are held in by an internal ring which you'll see when the dust seal is off.
 
Thanks guys, I’ve got the lower stanchion out of the upper tube, my issue is just relieving that top 19mm nut off the central threaded rod, it’s still enclosed by the top spring perch. But I can get a socket or wrench onto it no problem.

Even compressing the spring using that perch does not relieve the nut tension, I’ve tried.

Does Ohlins make a special tool to hold said rod?

In the meantime I’ll just soft jaw the threaded rod above the nut. Will jump back in later today, and report back. Thanks.
 
That nut is not supposed to be locked down onto the end of the rod thread. Its supposed to be locked against the top nut. Just be careful during reassembly or it will be the same next time you change the seals.
 
Baggerman, I’m sure you’re right, I screwed that nut too far down and now it’s flush against the upper spring perch. And so now I’m screwed! :) Ha ha.
 

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