Front brake issue

The banjos on the ABS seems like unneeded pain since you have to remove fairings to bleed. Easier option is to install speed bleeder valves on master and caliper and just pump the lever over and over to push fluid quickly through the entire system. I have them and they are wonderful.

I had in previous season some brake fading issues on track with my Pani V4. Original master cylinder & calibers, Brembo Supersport brake discs, Bremo SC bads & Motul RBF600 fluid. ABS still in place. Riding in A group.

For this season I upgraded further the pistons to Braketech ventilated stainless steels pistons and brakepads to EBC GPFAX. I tried to also clean more often the calibers & pistons to ensure that brakes don’t drag due to pistons being dirty. After this I did not have anymore fading issues during this season. To me the GPFAX seemed to have thicker friction material layer than brembos, so thicker pad & stainless steel pistons might have helped in reducing the heat transfer to the fluid.

Mick1976 said:

Yeah pick any port you want the banjo's are 10mm x 1.0. There are so many extra long lines within the ABS plumbing getting the air out is tough. Removing it all and by passing the pump going direct with a T line from calipers to master is the only fix.

Click to expand...

Bingo. It may not make a big improvement on the brakes but will certainly make bleeding them easier. And you'll be bleeding more frequently using something like RBF660.

FooRider said:

I tried to also clean more often the calibers & pistons to ensure that brakes don’t drag due to pistons being dirty.

Click to expand...

This is huge too. If you have significant pad drag, that *will* heat that fluid up.

Gpattonrer said:

I second Karl's post, the billet MC's are preferable over the forged RCS. RCS upgrade really only helps with lever adjustments.

Bypassing the ABS should also help with removing some sponginess.

I don't agree with the 17RCS vs. 19RCS comment. 17RCS should only be used with 30mm piston calipers. Stock calipers on the V2 are the same as the 959/899 platform (32mm pistons *I believe*) & need the larger 19RCS MC.

Click to expand...

This is correct. The 17 is for Stylema calipers

Thanks guys!! Motorcycle brotherhood is awesome
Really appreciate it

What do you habe your abs setting on? If its on 2 the cornering abs is probably kicking in.

mr-proper86 said:

What do you habe your abs setting on? If its on 2 the cornering abs is probably kicking in.

Click to expand...

I set it race so front abs is off...
I haven't done it but( parts ordered) but went with remove abs, direct T line, braketech pistons, and billet master....
I can't wait and am very hopeful...it'll probably be off season project as season almost over...
You guys are awesome
Thanks and you can see I'm listening and acting on advice

JDD2254 said:

I set it race so front abs is off...
I haven't done it but( parts ordered) but went with remove abs, direct T line, braketech pistons, and billet master....
I can't wait and am very hopeful...it'll probably be off season project as season almost over...
You guys are awesome
Thanks and you can see I'm listening and acting on advice

Click to expand...

Even in Race mode its in setting 2, unless you manually changed the setting to 1( front abs wheel only) because if its still in setting 2, that would explain your issues, since the cornering abs is still functioning and also you cannot turn the abs setting off from the factory, lowest setting is 1.

mr-proper86 said:

Even in Race mode its in setting 2, unless you manually changed the setting to 1( front abs wheel only) because if its still in setting 2, that would explain your issues, since the cornering abs is still functioning and also you cannot turn the abs setting off from the factory, lowest setting is 1.

Click to expand...

Thanks again, sorry I confused it.. I have had on setting 1