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- Joined
- Dec 24, 2011
- Messages
- 1,217
- Location
- Canada
Once take off the nut and loosen the pinch bolts it'll slide out to your left.
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2014
- Messages
- 110
- Location
- Houston Texas
Completely forgot about the pinch bolts.They loosened very easily.I still can't pull wheel out due to calipers.Should rotor get unbolted from the wheel as well? Seems that would work.If so I will have to wait to buy that socket to fit the rotor bolts.I unbolted the calipers from forks and it won't go.
You have to remove the calipers from the forks before the wheel can be removed. Wrap them in towels so they don't mar the wheels or the bodywork. As was pointed out, once you loosen the 4 pinch bolts and remove the nut on the left side of the wheel (when sitting on the bike), support the wheel, use a rubber mallet to tap out the axle from right to left (when looking at the front of the bike. When you slide it out the wheel will be released.
What Jeff said with one addition; you might have to remove the pinch bolts on the right fork leg and pry the slot open slightly by working a flat blade screwdriver or the like in the slot. Mine is a real pain to get the axle out if I don't do that, but easy if I do.
The axle should slide out pretty smoothly if done correctly. First time I removed mine was painstaking, turns out the axle was oval, I think the dealers that changed my front tire over tighten the pinch bolts.
Try to use the axle tool on the right side of the bike and see if it rotates smoothly. I am selling an extra axle tool if you're interested.
Try to use the axle tool on the right side of the bike and see if it rotates smoothly. I am selling an extra axle tool if you're interested.
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2014
- Messages
- 146
- Location
- Enterprise, Alabama
Alleykat, thank you for asking these questions, I am about to have my wheels powder coated as well. What is a good price to pay for having them done?
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2012
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- 893
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- U.S.A.
Put masking tape on the rims before pulling the calipers.
Axle is indeed slightly ovalized; verified with calipers. It came out that way the first time I pulled the wheel to change a front tire. Very little out of round though, and only at the extreme right end that gets pinched. Pretty common with the Pani from what I gather. I always make a point of inspecting for cracks and rotating it 90 degrees when I reinstall it.
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2014
- Messages
- 110
- Location
- Houston Texas
Price will vary by your color choice.
I personally charge this most of the time
$130 a pair for a "single stage" color
$160 a pair for a "2 stage" color such as candy ones,metallics etc.
Of course if you live like in Hawaii/Cali expect extra "taxes" added on by your local coater lol.
You're in Alabama so you shouldn't get charged much different than my pricing.
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2012
- Messages
- 495
- Location
- Albuquerque, NM
And since nobody mentioned it, it's poor practice to leave the calipers hanging by their hydraulic lines. Zip tie them or bungee them to the "frame" or some other hard point like the lower triple clamp. It might save you a leak or a failed hydraulic fitting (especially the pretty aluminum ones common on Kevlar brake lines).
i think it's the design of the clamp on the marzocchi forks, too much play. Over tightening of the pinch bolt will definitely squeeze the thin axle tube. From the look of it, dealer that last change my front tire overtorque the pinch bolt.
With the ohlins forks, i have zero problems with the axle, always pulls out smoothly.
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2014
- Messages
- 146
- Location
- Enterprise, Alabama
Price will vary by your color choice.
I personally charge this most of the time
$130 a pair for a "single stage" color
$160 a pair for a "2 stage" color such as candy ones,metallics etc.
Of course if you live like in Hawaii/Cali expect extra "taxes" added on by your local coater lol.
You're in Alabama so you shouldn't get charged much different than my pricing.
Ok sounds good. Are new wheel bearings needed?
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