Fuel leak

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Those Urals are real chick magnets! Every Babuchka will be after you.

Great:)

I think i'll look into the Ural then;)

Do they come with a 41 tooth sprocket option??
And are there any current updates or recalls for the ECU maps that I should know about??
I also hear they have trouble with traction control issues when using a different size tyre from stock.
And what suspension settings are good for commuting that people are running on the Urals??

I thought that an AR exhaust would be a great idea for lighter weight and more performance.
Are there any cost effective tuning options for this exhaust??
I don't have access to a reputable dyno tuner in my area.
 
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Comes with everything!

But keep in mind that if you were to be a dick with a Babuchka, your brother-in-law Yuri will toss you into the Volga.
 
Has nothing to do with the charcoal canister. That's a breather tube (#7) you're dumping fuel out of.

I'm guessing that your fuel quick-disconnect probably isn't snapped on all the way, so it's leaking gas into the airbox and dumping out of the breather tube.

Takes about five minutes to pull the tank (or lift it up enough to unsnap and then snap it back in), but if you've taken in your bike to get a new fuel cap installed I'm guessing you probably aren't too keen on messing with it.

Aren't the quick disconnects plastic/nylon? (haven't taken tank off to inspect). I know the plastic type are known to be fragile and subject to cracking. Triumph had a problem with them for a while. Permanent fix was to replace with the metal type.

This sounds precisely like the same problem. May want to investigate replacing the disconnect with a metal one.
 
I lifted the tank (couldn't quite get the two shafts holding the from you). didn't see any leak coming from the white disconnect near the rear of the tank or any leak from the two rubber lines at the right front of the tank. thought it would be one of those.
 
I lifted the tank (couldn't quite get the two shafts holding the from you). didn't see any leak coming from the white disconnect near the rear of the tank or any leak from the two rubber lines at the right front of the tank. thought it would be one of those.

Disconnect the fuel line, then re-connect it. You just have to pinch it and pull to disconnect (and can do that without removing the tank completely). To connect, just push the two together (without pinching) and you should hear a definitive SNAP when it locks in place. It's easy to push them together without snappage, allowing just a small amount to leak out which probably gets worse once the fuel pumping begins.

To remove the tank completely, remove bolts holding base of tank on to bike. Disconnect the ground and the electric connection at the base of the tank (also by the seat), disconnect the two fuel drainage lines on the front right portion (along with the two screws holding the tank to the front hinge), disconnect the fuel line and just lift. It's so easy that it's actually kind of fun. Just make sure when you do the final snap together that you haven't pushed the airbox seal into the airbox. There's got to be a leak in there somewhere, and pulling the tank is about the only way you're going to find it.

As for that plastic disconnect, Charlie--I thought it would be a good idea to replace mine, too, but after thousands of hours baking above the engine it functions perfectly. No signs of cracking or wear and tear. I think Ducati have got their plasticurgy down now.
 
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I lifted the tank (couldn't quite get the two shafts holding the from you). didn't see any leak coming from the white disconnect near the rear of the tank or any leak from the two rubber lines at the right front of the tank. thought it would be one of those.

Was this with motor on? You said earlier it would stop once the motor was shut off (which would indicate it's happening under pressure from fuel pump).
 
Disconnect the fuel line, then re-connect it. You just have to pinch it and pull to disconnect (and can do that without removing the tank completely). To connect, just push the two together (without pinching) and you should hear a definitive SNAP when it locks in place. It's easy to push them together without snappage, allowing just a small amount to leak out which probably gets worse once the fuel pumping begins.

To remove the tank completely, remove bolts holding base of tank on to bike. Disconnect the ground and the electric connection at the base of the tank (also by the seat), disconnect the two fuel drainage lines on the front right portion (along with the two screws holding the tank to the front hinge), disconnect the fuel line and just lift. It's so easy that it's actually kind of fun. Just make sure when you do the final snap together that you haven't pushed the airbox seal into the airbox. There's got to be a leak in there somewhere, and pulling the tank is about the only way you're going to find it.

As for that plastic disconnect, Charlie--I thought it would be a good idea to replace mine, too, but after thousands of hours baking above the engine it functions perfectly. No signs of cracking or wear and tear. I think Ducati have got their plasticurgy down now.

i did take off and resnap in the quick disconnect and examined the two lines near the from of the tank. nothing was leaking. I started the bike and immediately saw a good flow of gas button the quick disconnect and two front lines still showed no signs of leaking. I was unable to remove the two hinge shafts near the front of the bike so I still can't find where the leak is coming from. I've lost maybe a gallon of gas total so it's gotta be a leak but only when engine is on. Ducati roadside is picking it up tomorrow morning so I'm gonna let the dealer figure it out. wish dealers weren't closed Sunday AND Monday lol.
 
Sending it to the dealer is what you should've done in the first place, instead of dicking with it yourself.

That's what you paid for in the purchase price.
2 years Roadside Assist and a 2 year warranty.
 
Sending it to the dealer is what you should've done in the first place, instead of dicking with it yourself.

That's what you paid for in the purchase price.
2 years Roadside Assist and a 2 year warranty.

that's actually what I did. I called Ducati roadside right away but the dealer was clised so a Saturday pickup was not possible. Tuesday morning is the next time the dealer will be open. I was dicking around cuz I was curious as to the cause and wanted to find out the extent of the damage (if any). I don't trust the dealer to always tell me the whole truth.
 
I was dicking around cuz I was curious as to the cause and wanted to find out the extent of the damage (if any). I don't trust the dealer to always tell me the whole truth.

I see said the blind man.
 
Sending it to the dealer is what you should've done in the first place, instead of dicking with it yourself.

That's what you paid for in the purchase price.
2 years Roadside Assist and a 2 year warranty.

While true.

I always try and find out as much as I can, don't trust the mechs at the shop for beans.


Alf keep us updated.
 
Pity that:(
I would hate to be in your position.

What's wrong with having all your own tools being a good mechanic?


It would have to a major problem before I would take mine in, when I can fix it before the shop would even look at it.


Don't take my remark as a sign of poor craftsmanship by the local dealers.

[even though ive seen it at other dealerships]
 
dealer identified the problem as a nicked o-ring on one of the injectors. problem is the o-ring doesn't have a specific part number and therefore they may need to order the whole injector. they're gonna try a local auto parts store to find an I-ring size match first.
 
What's wrong with having all your own tools being a good mechanic?


It would have to a major problem before I would take mine in, when I can fix it before the shop would even look at it.

Don't take my remark as a sign of poor craftsmanship by the local dealers.

[even though ive seen it at other dealerships]


My mistake.
I thought your remark was actually a reflection of a lack of confidence in the dealership mechanics.

The problem with dicking with it yourself is that one can create a larger problem which is more complicated to repair under warranty. That's not taking into account the possibility of damaging something else in the process. It really can cause some complications, and potential for embarrassment for all parties concerned.

From the perspective of someone who actually works in a dealership and has to put up with all kinds of experts that do their own fiddling on their machines.
My advise to you is that it's best to wait until your warranty has expired before you take it upon yourself to perform work on your machine.
Then you will have all the opportunity in the world to go and knock yourself out.

Even though I'm trade qualified and more than experienced enough to work on my machines.
Whilst they're in warranty, an authorised dealership is the only entity which will ever put a tool on any of my machines for a great many good reasons.

I've seen plenty of times where an owner has done something to their machine that they will swear blind and argue is perfectly fine, safe, adequate, etc, etc, That would have me sacked from my job in an instant.
Simply because "I should know better".

I do cringe sometimes when people give advise on these internet forums which is well intentioned and in broad terms reasonably on track.
However, a good many essential details and or precautions relating to the process, are either omitted through ignorance or negligence.
I choose not to engage with these matters over the internet. But watch from the sidelines.

Simple chain adjustments are a typical example of where people go wrong a great many times when working on their own bikes.

On the internet I would rather say "RTFM" and or if it's under warranty "go to your closest dealer" to effect repairs:)
It's simply prudent.

Anyway, carry on;)
 
dealer identified the problem as a nicked o-ring on one of the injectors. problem is the o-ring doesn't have a specific part number and therefore they may need to order the whole injector. they're gonna try a local auto parts store to find an I-ring size match first.

25 thousand dollar bike, dealer is sourcing parts at a local auto parts store"¦For an item that transfers a flammable substance. Maybeeee think twice about telling him to order the right ....... part.

Not to mention that all O-rings are NOT created equal, neither is rubber. If he installs an O-ring that is not compatible with harsh petroleum based products you are setting yourself up for a serious problem. Rubber that can withstand fuel on it is a different type of rubber (Fluoroelastomer) !"¦Those hoses that are hanging from the gas pumps at your local stop-and-rob are not made of just hose pipe from your garden hose, they are specifically designed for fuel.

Just my .2c

NOLA
 
25 thousand dollar bike, dealer is sourcing parts at a local auto parts store"¦For an item that transfers a flammable substance. Maybeeee think twice about telling him to order the right ....... part.

Not to mention that all O-rings are NOT created equal, neither is rubber. If he installs an O-ring that is not compatible with harsh petroleum based products you are setting yourself up for a serious problem. Rubber that can withstand fuel on it is a different type of rubber (Fluoroelastomer) !"¦Those hoses that are hanging from the gas pumps at your local stop-and-rob are not made of just hose pipe from your garden hose, they are specifically designed for fuel.

Just my .2c

NOLA

you are absolutely correct. dealer ended up ordering the injector part so as to not take chances with the critical fuel system.
 
you are absolutely correct. dealer ended up ordering the injector part so as to not take chances with the critical fuel system.

Very good idea !

Did he happen to notice if there was a sale on blue Locktite there ? <------S
 

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