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so you would use assembly paste that’s anti seize but won’t use anti seize because it’s anti seize (right).

As for the lock nuts it’s called up selling corse parts, the factory nuts work fine only get torqued to 8nm.
Show me where I said I wouldn’t use anti seize, maybe take the time to read what I posted instead of posting your usual nonsense. I use assembly paste as verbiage universally as it applies to many disciplines.As far as fasteners are concerned, I posted what I use and someone else posted why you may not want to use the stock nuts.
 
I don't have too much faith in the stock exhaust nuts or the gasket for that matter.

But, in my example, it didn't seal very well. This is from when the stock exhaust came off at around 700-800mi.

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Not even a good method for RTV, if you are using RTV. Finger smear is a very poor way of going about it.

Its especially problematic in the V4 applications since the exhaust gasket is an odd folded over double layer type. Smearing high temp RTV on the outside surface doesn't address the space or seal between the layers.

I feel like this is a thing among Ducati dealers which was carried over from previous generations.
 
High temp RTV. Copper anti-seize looks much different. The V4 manual also makes no mention of it. I've watched more than one video of Ducati techs smearing the gaskets with RTV though.
 
High temp RTV. Copper anti-seize looks much different. The V4 manual also makes no mention of it. I've watched more than one video of Ducati techs smearing the gaskets with RTV though.
This nonsense is left over from the 60s when at times you did not have a precision mating surface. In this application you have precision machined surfaces on both the head and the flange and a multi piece engineered gasket for the application. Sealant is not required.
 
I understand the theory but in practice? BP's bike showed a blown gasket so even from the factory it's not perfect. The obvious question is does it do any harm? If not then its just a preventative measure since its such a time consuming and expensive job (if you pay) to get to the headers again.
 
The front manifold is held on with this goofy bracket on the bottom and the top of the manifold is angled. If it isn't positioned perfectly and that position maintained when torqueing the nuts, the seal could be compromised. Like could be the case in an Italian factory.

In my garage I could, and did, take much more time and care than a factory line worker would have been able to.
 

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