Grinding shifter toe pegs

i Ride a SF V4s and it is a normal occurrence that at the track I keep grinding my left and right toe pegs. I have no more adjustment available and I also have increased the preload on the spring to see if It helped.
Just curious …

You have plenty of thread left between the rod end connected to the shift arm, and the quickshifter barrel- you loosen those doubled 10mm nuts and you should be able to buy quite a bit of rise.
This type of adjustment is part of why I prefer the Woodcraft rearsets, because the toepiece alone rotates to multiple positions in a 360 degree circle to get the perfect positioning.

If that doesn't get you need, you can remove the pinch bolt on the splined shift clamp and rotate a tooth at a time then clamp back down- as long as it doesn't make contact at either shift direction it's position doesn't matter much (just not straight on, you need some rotational leverage). Or switch to GP shift (that's what that 6mm threaded hole is for at the opposite end of the shifter pivot).

And practice body position, you should be touching knee pucks or boots before any hard parts.

Right on , thanks. I moved the rear sets further back .. maybe this will help as the toe piece is a tad higher.
Btw my shift pattern always been Gp style and my knee pucks have seen better days , if you know what I mean.

I’m surprised you scraping the shifter peg before the arrow exhaust can! Did you tuck the left one up a bit?

I did !
I’ll find out this weekend if it was enough! So far the exhaust seems to have just enough clearance !

One other thing that came to me about this post (as I was at the track yesterday): I had a larger guy ask me about the same type of issues on his SFV4S a couple track days ago, and I asked him about his DES settings. He said he had it in active and he thought he had things where they should be. When I mentioned I only do track days with the active suspension off, and run a stiffer damping in the fixed mode, he said he would try that and afterward mentioned that it worked wonders for him.
So if you haven't tried that option it may be worth it, start with your damping settings on the higher side of midrange and go from there. You can switch back to the active settings for a more comfortable ride on the street, one of the perks of the SFV4S.

Keep in mind that because the high cornering forces encountered on a track, force the bike down further into its suspension, Ohlins recommends you set preload higher to obtain lower sag values for the track.

ROAD

Static: Front: 30 mm, Rear: 10 mm

Rider: Front: 45-50 mm, Rear: 40 mm


TRACK

Static: Front: 25 mm, Rear: 5 mm

Rider: Front: 35 mm, Rear: 30 mm

skidrumr said:

One other thing that came to me about this post (as I was at the track yesterday): I had a larger guy ask me about the same type of issues on his SFV4S a couple track days ago, and I asked him about his DES settings. He said he had it in active and he thought he had things where they should be. When I mentioned I only do track days with the active suspension off, and run a stiffer damping in the fixed mode, he said he would try that and afterward mentioned that it worked wonders for him.
So if you haven't tried that option it may be worth it, start with your damping settings on the higher side of midrange and go from there. You can switch back to the active settings for a more comfortable ride on the street, one of the perks of the SFV4S.

Click to expand...

I run fixed mode as well. I also had to change the pre load setting of the spring to make it stiffer.
I’ll be on track sat with the new setup. We shall see

Shazaam! said:

Keep in mind that because the high cornering forces encountered on a track, force the bike down further into its suspension, Ohlins recommends you set preload higher to obtain lower sag values for the track.

ROAD

Static: Front: 30 mm, Rear: 10 mm

Rider: Front: 45-50 mm, Rear: 40 mm


TRACK

Static: Front: 25 mm, Rear: 5 mm

Rider: Front: 35 mm, Rear: 30 mm

Click to expand...

Thanks those are interesting numbers! I’ll check mine to see what’s mine .

Flyingstefano said:

I also had to change the pre load setting of the spring to make it stiffer.

Click to expand...

Increasing spring preload doesn't increase spring stiffness.
Increased preload raises ride height — or said another way — decreases sag.

Shazaam! said:

Keep in mind that because the high cornering forces encountered on a track, force the bike down further into its suspension, Ohlins recommends you set preload higher to obtain lower sag values for the track.

ROAD

Static: Front: 30 mm, Rear: 10 mm

Rider: Front: 45-50 mm, Rear: 40 mm


TRACK

Static: Front: 25 mm, Rear: 5 mm

Rider: Front: 35 mm, Rear: 30 mm

Click to expand...

Same problem here (including scraping the Arrow muffler), and have a pretty stiff dynamic setting from Dave Moss.
The fixed setting you speak of; are they set electronically from the dash? If so, what are the numbers you set your fixed suspension to?

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