help with installing seat cover lock

Hey guys i was wondering if anyone had instructions on how to install the seat cover lock back into the right side tail strada. I just got my Full six carbon fiber tail tail strada. They forgot to include the small pieces of carbon fiber that go to the left and right of the seat cover. No biggie Im sure they will send it out. Left side went in perfect. Right side I had to file down the openings for the notches to fit the lock into. But the only issue now I cant install this lock. Im doing something wrong. I tried putting the lock in two different positions but I cant get the spring to attach and stay and nothing I did was correct. I wish I took a pic of how all the pieces line up. Any help would be great.

I thought the notches were one way. Meaning one is bigger than the other. I had mine lined up wrong at first. The arm on the lock that the spring goes into should rest against our close to the arm that holds the cable housing. The spring pulls it back into that position when you let the key go.

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RetardedTiming said:

I thought the notches were one way. Meaning one is bigger than the other. I had mine lined up wrong at first. The arm on the lock that the spring goes into should rest against our close to the arm that holds the cable housing. The spring pulls it back into that position when you let the key go.

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The notches were one way. But like with any aftermarket carbon fiber something just wont fit right. So both notches were too small and had to be filed open. However when I fitted the left side all the holes lined up perfect and the parts slid right into place with the connectors. And all the screws went in perfect. Same with the right side when I got so tired of playing with the lock that I bolted on the right side. Then caught myself about to put the seat cover it. I guess that may have been a bad idea since it may have locked and then I had no way of getting inside to unscrew the inner screws on either side of the seat cover. Then again even if the lock fit Im still doing something wrong and cant get it mounted.

Is there some sort of washer that keeps the spring in place? Here is a pic of the lock in place and the spring in place. And I will try to explain how I set the lever as best as I could and you tell me if its correct and whether the spring and rotation of lock is correct please. See where the spring is. I placed the lever downward meaning the part where the cable is put into is facing down. And the hole for the spring is on the right. After installing it that way the key would barely turn.

Looks like it's 180 to what it should be.

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RetardedTiming said:

Looks like it's 180 to what it should be.

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So youre saying the part of the spring(smaller part sticking out) that goes into the lock should be up top. And the part of the spring that goes into the lever should almost be on the left side. and the part of the lever that accepts the cable part should be sticking up rather than down? Jesus installing my Termi exhaust and installing my carbon exhaust cover thats right below the tail was easier that this freaken lock. Installing that exhaust cover took me 40 mins and thats because I drank a diet coke and smoked. Instead of removing the tank like most due. I followed the advice of a forum member. Loosen the tank. pinch off the fuel line. Place something to hold tank up like a piece of wood length wise. Raise the subframe. Remove old exhaust cover and replace with carbon fiber one. Lower subframe. Tighten bolts. Lower tank after doing the fuel line and bolt it up. This freaken lock is the bane of my existence lolol

Rotate the whole cylinder 180 degrees. The cable housing bracket is in the correct position so don't rotate that.

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Can you let me know if Im missing any parts. Maybe I dropped something. I lost the screw that went on top of the lock which went through the washer when I was attempting to screw into place. Good thing I have one of those large plastic jars that hold the reflectors used to scew into license plates filled with nuts, bolts and washers of almost all sizes that came off harleys that me and my mechanic buddy work on for my guys in my MC and other MC's and also filled with nuts, bolts and washers from Japanese and European sport bikes. I found a screw that had the same thread and size but it was a bit too long so I cut it.

Here is what I have for my lock. And maybe you can let me know if Im missing anything.
Lock, spring, lever, top washer and screw. Im wondering if anything holds the spring in place because I did try mounting the way you said but the spring kept coming out of that part where it sinks into. And when I mounted the lever with the with the hole on the left side it looked like it would hit the side of that L shaped bracket

At the risk of sounding like I'm teaching you to suck eggs, you would be well advised to obtain a copy of the workshop manual. I've removed these dozens of times. The main thing is to ensure you orientate everything correctly.

Feed the lock barrel through the seat panel (as you are aware the tabs on the lock barrel are different sizes and will only pass through the panel one way due to the asymmetric slots) and place the cable bracket over the barrel from the inside. It will only go on one way since the slots on the bracket should correspond with the asymmetric plastic tabs on the lock barrel. Screw on and tighten the plastic nut down onto the bracket, hand tight then a half turn will suffice. Ensure flat face of nut is NOT uppermost. Insert spring so that one end fits into the corresponding hole in the barrel body. Hook the end of the cable into the actuating arm. Attach the actuating arm to the barrel, whilst you hook the other end of the spring into the hole within it. Fit the domed spring washer (dome side up) and tighten the fastening screw over the top.

The orientation of the arm is the all important part here. You need to position it so that with the key out of the lock, the arm is not pulling on the cable, but is held in this rest position by the spring. On insertion of the key the arm needs to rotate anticlockwise against this spring to pull on the cable and release the seat lock. On releasing pressure on the key, the spring should rotate the arm clockwise to return it to the previous position. Here's a picture of the lock on my previous 1199 which shows the orientation of the arm. Sorry its not the best of pictures, as the forum wont let me upload any larger more detailed images. (Mods, is this issue being addressed BTW?). Hope this helps.

Here's another pic that might help.

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topolino said:

At the risk of sounding like I'm teaching you to suck eggs, you would be well advised to obtain a copy of the workshop manual. I've removed these dozens of times. The main thing is to ensure you orientate everything correctly.

Feed the lock barrel through the seat panel (as you are aware the tabs on the lock barrel are different sizes and will only pass through the panel one way due to the asymmetric slots) and place the cable bracket over the barrel from the inside. It will only go on one way since the slots on the bracket should correspond with the asymmetric plastic tabs on the lock barrel. Screw on and tighten the plastic nut down onto the bracket, hand tight then a half turn will suffice. Ensure flat face of nut is NOT uppermost. Insert spring so that one end fits into the corresponding hole in the barrel body. Hook the end of the cable into the actuating arm. Attach the actuating arm to the barrel, whilst you hook the other end of the spring into the hole within it. Fit the domed spring washer (dome side up) and tighten the fastening screw over the top.

The orientation of the arm is the all important part here. You need to position it so that with the key out of the lock, the arm is not pulling on the cable, but is held in this rest position by the spring. On insertion of the key the arm needs to rotate anticlockwise against this spring to pull on the cable and release the seat lock. On releasing pressure on the key, the spring should rotate the arm clockwise to return it to the previous position. Here's a picture of the lock on my previous 1199 which shows the orientation of the arm. Sorry its not the best of pictures, as the forum wont let me upload any larger more detailed images. (Mods, is this issue being addressed BTW?). Hope this helps.

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I tried playing around with the lock tonight but had no luck even when looking at the stock tail strada and seeing that the larger slot had to be on the bottom after looking at the stock right tail strada. I tried and still made mistakes. Let me ask you something. Is there a rubber washer that goes over the spring to hold it in place. Reason I ask is because the spring keeps popping out. I may have one of my prospects from my MC go over to the local dealer tomorrow and ask if he can take a look at a panigale that is in there for warranty work just to see how the lock is set up because this lock has me dumfounded. I cant seem to figure this thing out. .... I rebuild my entire motor on my 2010 harley street glide by installing a new S&S crank, timken bearing, cam plate, oil pump, starter, new 117 pistons and cylinders, starter, clutch basket, rocker plates, push rods, cams, listers, and all the gaskets. And I cant figure out a simple locking mechanism. I feel like a complete ......

My advice to you is to fit the lock as I described. For the moment however, just insert the key into the lock and place the arm onto the barrel in the approximate orientation shown in the picture above, having hooked the cable end onto it. Don't fit the spring yet!

Now turn the key and check that the arm moves anticlockwise towards the front of the bike and pulls the cable. You may need to keep a finger on the arm as you do this to stop it popping off. Remember you are just checking that the basic position of the arm and the orientation of the lock are correct. You will note that the arm will not spring back when you release pressure on the key, since the spring has yet to be fitted. If the arm does not move in the correct sense it's possible that you could have fitted the lock 180 degrees out. This is perhaps due to the slots in your carbon fibre panel not being accurate enough to determine that the lock can only be fitted one way, as normally they are assymetric to prevent you fitting it incorrectly. I have seen a few panels where the manufacturers have actually made the slots the wrong way around or at the incorrect clock angle. Check the slots in your carbon panel against those in your OEM plastic part. If the same you should be good to go. The arm itself has a square hole in it's centre, alowing you to fit it to the barrel of the lock at different positions. You just need to work out which one to give you the movement you require when you turn they key. When you find it I recommend you paint a small stripe across arm and barrel, so in future you will always marry it up in the same position, should you need to remove the lock again.

OK so if all is correct, remove the arm. You can leave the cable attached and fit the spring such that one end hooks into the corresponding recess in the body of the lock. As you offer up the arm to the lock barrel, hook the other end of the spring into the hole of the arm. This can be a little fiddly. You just need to ensure both ends of the spring remain in place. The arm should be fitted in the same orientation as the position you previously tested. Whilst holding the arm in place fit the domed washer over the top and finally the screw and tighten it all down. There is no rubber washer as part of this lock assembly. Trust me once you have the lock correctly fitted, you will wonder why you found it so difficult. Sounds to me as if you just have it or the arm incorrectly orientated. It's literally a 2 min job if correctly assembled.

Finally did it correct today. Thanks for all the help guys

cycler said:

Finally did it correct today. Thanks for all the help guys

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Glad you got it sorted.

I was just having the same issues putting my lock back together.
I found a REALLY EASY method to reinstalling the Assy. ...... have ........ timing over for dinner. Feed him dinner, brownie sundae and a few beers..... and have him do it.
WAY EASIER [emoji3]


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Hahaha I will never say no to brownies.

cycler said:

Finally did it correct today. Thanks for all the help guys

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Is it possible for you to post a picture of how it looks with the spring etc.? I'm having the same issue with my 2009 Ducati Monster 696 and the picture you showed before shows exactly where I am at. Any tips is much appreciated