High Idle, Popping Exhaust

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Nov 18, 2011
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Round the World on an 1199
Need some help here. I've had this intermittent problem for several thousand miles. At first it was an annoyance, then a nuisance, then, after I finished my PacNW ride it happened nearly all the time.

Problem:
· High Idle (2-4k rpm) mostly when hot, but a few times when starting from cold
· Inconsistent idle (sometimes low/stalls, usually after a start).
· Exhaust ‘popping’ or ‘coughing’ at idle, sometimes with high idle, sometimes at normal idle
· No issues at normal RPMs/riding
· No real consistency. Sometimes hot, sometimes cold, sometimes after cruising on the freeway, sometimes in the city, sometimes not. Sometimes during a cold start, sometimes not. (Though come to think of it, it does happen after filling up more often than not.)


Things I did (some prior to taking it in for service) with no permanent effect:
· Removed charcoal canister
· Battery disconnect for 12 hours
· Manual reset of TPS (turning ignition on and off 5 times).
· Replaced throttle housing (tab holding it to clipon had broken off the first one)
· Removed/inspected/wiped down RPM timing speed sensor


Problems I found:
1. Airbox seal hadn't been properly seated after the dealer replaced the rear heat shield = meaning unfiltered air was getting into the engine.
2. Oil breather tube had been unplugged from its location on the plastic in the bottom tray (vacuum leak). Assuming this also happened when Ducati Seattle replaced the exhaust.
3. Both the fuel vent lines had been disconnected.

#2 and #1 had me very concerned—basically for at least 3000 miles fresh air was bypassing the filter. This was a particular dealers fault and the heads were replaced.

The popping at idle and the high idle seem to suggest a vacuum leak, but all the vacuum seals check out.

ECU was replaced with the heads, which solved the problem for about 1,000 miles. Now it's back and intermittent. It's driven me and three dealers nuts.

Possible issues I'm thinking:
Sensor that's misreading something and as the ECU 'learns' the symptom doesn't appear until the next start or the next ECU change cycle.

Or

Possibly a component in the system responsible for blipping the throttle as the revs dip is misreading something and causing the issue?

Or O2 sensor?

RTW clock is ticking....
 
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sounds like an air / fuel thing

regarding getting rid of air / fuel:
- O2 sensors good? how does the catalytic converter look like? clogged? (need it removed :D ?)
- how well is the exhaust gas recirculation working?

regarding putting air / fuel in the motor:
- gas filter?
- what do the injectors look like?
- you checked the hoses / seals - what about the wiring -injectors (maybe plugs, coils) - sensors (contact spray on the connectors)

- that's all what comes to my mind right now ...

your bike has seen many miles and different climates ... that allows more errors (salt in the air / humidity / dust ...)
 
Sounds like a air/vacuum leak.


We used to hook up a more sensitive tach, and then use a propane bottle with a long hose.

Strip fairings,let engine idle, use propane and probe all over looking to see if your RPM rises. If it does you have found your leak.
 
· Inconsistent idle (sometimes low/stalls, usually after a start)..




With thottle bodies, sometimes you get gummy residue from gas, I normally have to use a can of brake clean on the throttle body and butterfly valve while running and spary it down every few years on my truck. Results are instant if this is the issue.
 
Check out the O2 sensor and its wire to make sure it's not cut or shorting somewhere. I had a similar symptom and it turned out to be the wire for the o2 sensor was rubbing against the new heat shield. The mech routed the cable wrong when they installed the new heat shield.
 
Thanks, guys. All great suggestions. I'll try the ones I can't convince my dealer to do on their own.

O2 Sensors are $268 bucks...hope that's one of the ones they do try.
 
Thanks, guys. All great suggestions. I'll try the ones I can't convince my dealer to do on their own.

O2 Sensors are $268 bucks...hope that's one of the ones they do try.

I will have a pair left over soon.

Lemme know if you need them in exchange for art.
 
The Dragon .... has a "similar" problem. She "idles" high when running through slow traffic in first gear. If I shift to second her revs drop to normal... It makes riding through traffic a real pain. :eek:
 
talked to my tech this weekend. he said, it's rather unlikely that the O2 sensors go bad.
he guesses intake side and first of all recommends a base mapping (that's talking bike connected to the ducatidiag) ...

got a good dealer close by???

(Dennis, check your facetoobs, i sent you a message with his contact, he knows the "good guys" at the dealerships on the left coast)
 
Has the TPS been checked out thoroughly?

Perhaps a swap for a new one may be beneficial.
Or put the bike on a dyno and try to find out/get some insight into what the functionality of the various sensors is like.
On a dyno, it will be possible to watch what's going on under repeatable circumstances.

It does sound like there's an unreliable/inconsistent data stream coming from a sensor of some description, and that's throwing the ECU functionality out.

Start with looking at the simple things first and work up to the more complex things.
 
Hey Brad--I replaced the throttle tube that contains the TPS. No luck. That was actually one of the first things I did. Second thing was removal of the charcoal canister.

I'm gonna drive the .... out of it and take it into the dealer while it's happening. Hopefully they can put it on the diagnostics right there. If they don't see it on diag it doesn't exist. ....... wish it just threw a code or something.

Base map is a novel idea, though, Phil....can't hurt.
 
Air leak would be my guess. The O2 sensor business can't be because I unplugged mine to see what it would do to performance and I couldn't tell the difference
 
A longshot but try adjusting ebs to get maximum engine braking to see if there is any change.

Good luck
 
Long story short: dealer has diagnosed that it was the exhaust valve. The cable and bushings in the midpipe were completely worn out. Exhaust valve is moving, cable was stretched and frayed.

I'd disconnected it a while back, so I'm not sure why it being worn out makes a difference, though perhaps it sits at an angle that obstructs the exhaust? No idea until I can see it myself and take a few pics of the jacked up item.

New parts will be in on Friday. Can't wait....should know within a day or two of riding that the ghost in the machine has finally been exorcised!
 
I somewhat doubt that this should be it bit I hope it for you! Best luck - and thanks for the awesome shipment!
 
Hey, dragging up an old thread here but I seem to be experiencing the same problems that you mentioned here and an another post about popping exhaust, intermittent high/low idle and slowly dropping from 3k rpm.

My bike has just covered 10k miles, and was fine last week when I did about 100 miles on it. Today I popped out for about 60 miles and on the way out, about 10 miles in I noticed an unusually low idle, I thought it was about to cut out and it did as I was filtering through cars at the lights! Managed to start it again whilst still rolling. Thought nothing of it as I didn't stop much until I stopped for fuel on the way back and noticed a cracking/popping sound at idle.

About a mile from home the throttle suddenly went very lumpy and jerky. And it would idle at about 3k rpm and slowly return down under 2k as normal. My exhaust valve has also been disconnected for the last 7k miles, except for when the dealer connected it again at the 7.5k service.

Did replacing the valve really fix this issue?
 
Take 'er to the dealer. My bike was fixed (though it wasn't the exhaust valve) after I traded it in. I don't know exactly what they did, but apparently it's proven to be a rare issue.
 
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