First, will say I do not race, however I am a slow expert w/ N2 but consider myself more towards the top when it comes to systems and setup, my true hobby at almost 50. I have had the privilege of running Duc's 1299 and V4, and have my own RR-R.
Honda:
You need a Honda HRC kit to change sprocket or tire size in the ECU, no dash function. This is insane money comparted to what I paid for an ECU and harness for my R6, and the ECU came with a factory race tune on it. Aprilia has had dash calibration functions for at least 5 years now. I have a tune from BT Moto that works, but it is no where near as predictable as the Duc's with EVO and slide control. Not even close. The tune did allow me to run the more modern 200/65 rears and a 15/43 setup, which was impossible stock. OEM sprockets were setup for over 100mph in first... Stock tune is neutered/flat above 12k, you pull, just dont make any more rwhp. Intake packed full of foam from factory and the good stacks are another cost item. Horrible mid-range dip that is supposedly fixed by a full race header and pipe with a proper tune, a bit better stock for the 25MY. The dip before the power band makes the bike feel like a 225hp two stroke over 10k, very narrow rev range to work with. If stock the power will pour on around 9.5k and stop at 12k. You have to tune it and with that goes the warranty. Forget staying in that higher gear before the big sweeper.
Bike comes setup for 200/55...
The R6 makes more torque than the RR-R down low, bonkers. You need to keep the RR-R on the boil as it is dead below 8k and doesn't really wake up until 9.5k. From 11k to 15k the RR-R is absolutely bonkers and needs at least a former pro to keep something like this on the boil while running with aggression. The back will be all over the place.
The foot peg height on the RR-R is too high, like 4" less between the seat and peg than anything else I have ridden. Even with Lightech peg drops from the EU, it is still too high for comfort. Attack doesn't make rearsets either.
Cast wheels, still light though.
You cannot buy an engine from Honda... Same with Ducati. Warranty is only a year.
The bike is very well mannered on the street. Below 5k you would think you are putting around on a touring machine, unaware of the beast that lurks inside. QS might as well be an automate tranny it is so smooth.
Duc:
Factory tune is solid and the Ducati Performance Tune is a game changer. Run a speed calibration from the dash and head out.
Better mid-range torque and it comes on more linear.
Dry clutch can be costly and time consuming to deal with, wet clutch unless racing.
On MR12, it is the only bike that will pull on the RR-R, RR-R had 93 tune in my case.
OEM exhaust is stupid money.
Manual suspension, FKR fronts, like the Honda.
My .02, buy a V4S (wet clutch) with the FKR fronts, run it in manual mode, get the Ducati Performance Tune with a Termi exhaust and run the piss out of it.
The fast guys around me all run the S1000RRs for track days, 3-year warranty and BMW will replace an engine and even sell you one after the warranty is up. Anyone I know that has popped an engine around season 3 has had a warranty replacement, even with the BT Moto tune. Bren and Motorrad have a very close relationship.
.02
I wouldn’t be surprised if you get one winner with one type of rider and a different winner with a different type of rider…
